Land Rover series 2
My final 2010 Truck Trial vehicle, built in less than single week after the previous vehicle failed. Features full pendular suspension, 4×4 drive, lights and opening doors, bonnet and rear board.
Datasheet:
Completion date: 03/09/2010
Power: electric (Power Functions)
Dimensions: length 48 studs / width 26 studs / height 27 studs
Weight: 1.985 kg (1.726 kg in roofless version)
Suspension: pendular, stabilized with shock absorbers
Propulsion: 1 x PF XL motor geared down 5:1
Top speed: 0.8 kmph in roofless version
Motors: 1 x PF XL, 1 x PF Medium
When I decided to abandon my Fiat SPA35 model, it was just a week before the Truck Trial race and my first decision was to pass on driving this time and to only take care of filming. Shortly after, I changed my mind and decided to try some simple 4×4 vehicle, just to drive something in the race. The vehicle was intended to combine the advantages of my two previous Truck Trial vehicles – Hummer H1 and Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, while also learning from Fiat’s failure. I wanted to try to model another famous 4×4 vehicle, so the classic Land Rover series 2 (dating all the way back to 1958) was pretty much an obvious choice.
While the complete model appears much like a Hummer/Wrangled hybrid on the outside, it was internally much closer to the Fiat model. The chassis was built completely with studless parts and used large Technic turntables to hold suspension modules in place – both solutions tested in the Fiat for the first time. The Land Rover shared engine location, gear ratio and wheels with the Wrangler and a studfull body with the Hummer. In fact, the Rover used studfull body around a studless chassis, whereas Wrangler used studless body around a studfull chassis.
The suspension has undergone some major changes in comparison to the version used in Fiat. The front axle was reverted to the version used in the Wrangler, and then a single turntable was attached behind it and the steering system was additionally reinforced. Both drive and steering were transferred through the turntable – steering by a solid driveshaft and steering by am empty differential sitting on it. The rear axle was built from a scratch between two turntables. There was no gearbox, and – just like in the Wrangler – the drive motor was located above the front axle, right under the bonnet. The racing rules we use state that every model has to be equipped with a piston engine of accurate configuration and placement, unless the actual drive motor is located where the original engine is. Thus, locating the motor under the bonnet meant that no piston engine was needed in the model, which saved space, weight and drive motor’s power. The steering was controlled by a single PF Medium motor geared down 15:1 and located low in the chassis, in front of the rear axle. The entire underside of the chassis was covered with studless parts, in order to create a single smooth surface that was unlikely to get stuck on an obstacle, and in order to lower the centre of gravity as well.

Knowing that my Wrangler model had abundance of torque, I wanted the Rover to be much heavier. Our racing rules take power-to-weight ratio of each individual model into account, therefore more weight at the same power means more points. Thus, I wanted the body to be massive, but at the same time it was my goal to keep the model’s centre of gravity low, despite its significant ground clearance (up to 7 studs under cabin’s floor). Therefore especially the lower portion of the body was built so densely that model came out almost undamaged from some crash tests I conducted later.
The body was equipped with a pair of opening doors, an opening bonnet with a spare wheel fixed on top of it (a common sight in early Land Rover versions), and opening rear board with the IR receiver attached to it. Most of the Land Rovers can be accessed from the back by a single door, and a board is a rarity. I chose the board over door because this way the IR receiver was more exposed, and could be pulled out from the cabin’s inside to some extend if needed. Moreover, the rear part of the cabin has been adapted to house a camera. Due to weak mounting points, this solution worked well only on flat, level surfaces, as proven during the race.
It should be noted that the model’s body was inaccurate: the front radiator grille should be put further back under the bonnet. I couldn’t model it because of the frame that braces the suspension module of the front axle. Moreover, inspired by the Inception movie featuring a tracked Hummer H1, I have created a simple set of four tracks for the Land Rover. The tracks and wheels could be easily swapped in the chassis, and while I did not intend to use the tracks outdoors (our racing rules don’t allow tracked vehicles of any kind), I have used these to drive around my apartment. The general performance was apparently inferior with tracks on, and in particular the traction was much worse than it was with wheels.
The completed model weighed a whopping 2.1 kg until I removed ballasted bricks that were mounted under the bonnet in order to shift the centre of gravity forward. It reduced model’s weight to just below 2 kg, and I decided to leave it like that because there was no time left for changes. The model performed well at this weight, it experienced no mechanical failures and displayed superb traction, but it was obvious that it will be struggling against its own weight.
Land Rover was warmly welcomed by other contestants because of its look and its very short building time. It performed well in the race, no mechanical failures occurred, but its weight turned out to be a real problem. The model ran out of power to climb on several occasions, and toppled over once. It ended up at the last place in the race, much to my disappointment. Yet still, other drivers and viewers were greatly impressed by its look, which led me to believe that it would be a waste to take it apart, and that the model should enter our last 2010 race on October, with open body design that should significantly reduce its weight.
Photos:
Work In Progress photos:
Video:

Hey Paul,
My friends and I, here in New Jersey, want to start a truck trial at a local park. Just wondering how I should set up the course, bring audiences/competitors, etc.
@LegoMaster
No, I am not making instructions for the body.
Hey Sariel! I just have a quick question… how do you attach the front and back bumper to the chassis. Also, where do the mudguards connect to the frame. Thanks in advance!
Ignore my last reply I was suffering from a severe case of being an idiot! tracks built, Thanks!
@Sariel ok I’ll try! I have no experience with the track system though, but I have set 8294 sat around waiting to be built, that should help
@Richuk
I’m glad you like it, but the tracked attachments were so simple that you can easily build them from the photos.
Hey Sariel, when you released the instructions for this my plans of using your 2 speed and orbital gear box in my on truck got scrapped, I made a chassis successfully, but under any kind of load the 2 speed auto gear box was unstable in liftarm form. So I went to bricklink, spent £25 and built this, thanks, it’s amazing! When you get some spare time could you make an instruction for the track modules? I’d love to build them.
Nice pants and shoes in your video
Please hurry with instructions, I cant wait to see how the rear chassis is constructed with suspension set up and also how you allow everything to run through your turn table with no problems with gearing.
@Mool
I only order pieces I’m missing from Bricklink. Sometimes I don’t have to order anything at all because I have enough parts.
I have a question:
when you make a model do you have every piece that you need sent from bricklink or do buy lego sets?
@bob
I’m not making instructions for the Monster Truck.
instructions of the chassis of the monster truck, wath you new have
(sorry for my bad english)
@bob
Um… what?
and the chassis, wath you new have?
@bob
No, I don’t think so.
can you make instructions for the monster truck on facebook?
@bob
Yes, I am going to publish instruction for Land Rover’s chassis sometime soon. This month, hopefully.
can you put more instructions on your website – similar to your instructions on the jeep wrangler rebicon?
Thats wonderful to hear, thanks once again and keep up the great work, amazing
@alex
Yes, I hope to do that within a month’s time. I’m glad you’re back to building, it’s truly a great hobby.
Ive been looking over your site and your work over the last 6 months and im blown away by your work and its made me to get back into building, ive been trying to build your land rover from your pictures and im finding it hard, are you still planning on releasing a part list and instructions? thanks alex
@Jasper
Still would be too large and still would need a compressor. I’m just not interested in pneumatic engines, sorry.
@Sariel
And it is very impressive!!
@Sariel
but you can also make a supercar with a pneumatic motor.
@Jasper
For instance because pneumatic engines are forbidden in truck trial. Or because it’s too large. Or because I don’t want to carry a compressor to drive my car.
Why not use one time a pneumatic motor that is cool and he is strong. would you please do one sometime.
@Jasper
Great. Now use English.
Waarom gebruik je niet een keertje een pneumatische motor dat is gaaf en hij is sterk wil je dat alstublieft een keertje doen
sweet thnx Sariel srry about ur tatra and unimog those were my favorite trtrs u made
@David
You can use it for whatever you like.
well ok but can i use ur chassis for a trtr im not going to race it just love it so much
@David
Then you did something wrong. Many people have built it and not a person had problems with it until now.
its just i look at ur trucks wit them they work very well but i built ur jeep dosent work at all like the pendular setup is locked and cant move thts all
@David
Man, these are shock absorbers, they work like springs, what difficulty is in that?
ps u made the truck on my birth day
@zwariowany
@David
can u tell how they work cuz i have them and not even a pound will work for rough terrian
Ciekawe czy gąsienicowy układ jezdny sprawdza się w terenie.
@David
Yes, they are.
@Neal
Yes, that would surely help.
Fantastic! I love Lego and Land Rover, so a perfect combination. You have really inspired me to get building again, after playing with the real thing. Would an open top or truck cab with roll cage helped to keep the CoG down and improve this?
Please build a Range Rover next!
r the shock absorbers stiff
@stefanmaster96
No, never.
wow love the studless chassis, btw, do you have any problems with the xl motor when the model gets stuck because it doesn’t look like it is secured on its side, does it twist??
@simontomi
Jeep is a brand name. And your model apparently needs some reinforcement.
@Sariel
I made a buggy, but it cant even cross the doorstep, the gears always slip.
ohh, i meant that the jeep is not the brand, its the car type. but both the jeep and the land rover you built are awesome!
@simontomi
Yes, I have built a Jeep too, but this here is a Land Rover.
Hi!
Very nice jeep!
I just keep trying making a 4X4, with the off-roader suspension parts, and its almost impossible to complete! I used the 3 studs differential casings you published, thanks for that!
im using a 22t gear with the 3 studs diff. ,but whatever i do, its just keep ticking! the steering is ok, but it the car gets stuck in small snow, and ticking in one place. Id be very happy if you could help!
Thanks and thanks and thanks thanks thanks!
No nic i tak dzięki za odpowiedz.Wielu udanych prac życzę.
Pozdrawiam
@zwariowany
Niestety nie wiem, nie jestem administratorem Lugpolu.
Witam,mam pytanie odnośnie Lugpol.Czy można się tam zarejestrować bo na stronie widnieje “Rejestracja została wyłączona.” ?