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Tow Truck 2

February 13th, 2011 Leave a comment Go to comments

Successor of my 2009 tow truck model, and my most complex construction up to date. Features remote drive & steering, elevated axle #2, rear & side outriggers, automated turn signals, automated reversing lights, motorized towing arm, rotated, elevated & extended boom, dual drum winch, engine model, opened doors and bonnet, lights and custom stickers. Update: a short video in a Full HD quality added.


Completion date: 11/02/2011
Power: electric (Power Functions)
Dimensions: length 97 studs / width 26 studs / height 28 studs
Weight: 5.069 kg
Suspension: none
Propulsion: 2 x PF XL motor geared 3.89:1
Top speed: 0.56 kmph
Motors: 10 x PF Medium, 2 x PF XL, 3 x 71427, 2 x micromotor

I have been planning to build a successor of my 2009 Tow Truck for quite a while, seeing the subject of large tow truck as a very attractive one. However, it was only the release of mini linear actuators in early 2011 that made me finally start it, giving me the opportunity to control all functions mechanically, without using pneumatics whatsoever. It was obvious from the very beginning that the project is going to be extremely parts-costly, and I started looking for parts I anticipated I would need already in the first half of 2010.

Initially, I was planning to build some non-existent truck in black-and-yellow livery, just like I did with my first tow truck. However, during 2010 I have started to assembly some plastic model kits in order to work on my modelling skills, and I have quickly become a big fan of Revell’s product line. It led me to discovering one of probably the most impressive models ever released by the Revell company: the Peterbilt 379 Wrecker truck. It was exactly the kind of a tow truck I wanted to build. The set itself is no longer produced and unopened boxes are very rare and very expensive. I actually had the opportunity to buy it at a relatively reasonable price, but I decided to pass, having doubts about me being able to assembly it properly. Luckily, I managed to obtain decent blueprints of this set, and they have become the basis of my Lego model.

The subject of large tow trucks is attractive to many skilled builders, and I was certainly not the first to explore it. It was therefore easy, and even reasonable, to look for a couple of inspirations. I have found three, one being the legendary Lego 5571 Giant Truck AKA Black Cat set, which – despite being a regular truck – set the standard for aesthetics and details I wanted to achieve. Again, the set is discontinued and I do not own it due to its exorbitant prices, so I was relying on plenty of photos floating around. My second inspiration was a tow truck based on the 5571 set created long time ago by Andrea Grazi and later artfully modelled by Blakbird. Andrea’s work was an impressive example of integrating plenty of functions into a model, while maintaining its 5571-like body shell uncompromising. Finally, the third inspiration came from my LUGPol fellow member, M_longer, in the form of his Kenworth W900 Rotator, which was a splendid example of building a large, functional tow truck model from a scratch.

Based on all these inspirations, my plans finally evolved towards a model of a Peterbilt 379 as close to Revell’s model as possible, in a black-and-red livery similar to that of the Lego Black Cat. It was not my goal, however, to accurately copy Revell’s model – I was using it more like a base for additions and modifications, for instance by adding extra minor details where I saw them fit, to come close to the level of detailwork shown by Andrea Grazi.

The model’s silhouette and general construction was based strictly on Revell’s blueprints – but I made it a little longer to accommodate for more motors. It is still shorter than M_longer’s model and than some existing real-life tow trucks. Anticipating the model to be really heavy, as exemplified by  M_longer’s Kenworth, I have reluctantly decided not to use a suspension system of any kind. It turned out to be the right decision, as the model’s internal space is used very sedulously and its front axle is very heavily loaded, even though it has been heavily reinforced.

As for the motors, I was initially planning on using 12 or 13 of them, but as I started to build the body frame, it became apparent that using more motors would actually keep the model smaller and less complex. This is largely because of the side outriggers slot, which traverses the very middle of the model, not only taking up a lot of space, but also requiring a massive internal frame below and above it in order to keep the model rigid. Thus, the middle section of the model had very little space left for any sort of connections between its rear and front halves, and it was an obvious choice to reduce these connections to electric wires only, using separate but coupled motors for certain functions in front and rear parts of the model rather than to try to connect these functions mechanically using driveshafts and gears. Additionally, using separate motors gave me a degree of freedom in choosing where to place certain mechanisms, as they were not connected mechanically. A very good example of it is using separate motors for steering and controlling turn signals: these two functions are coupled together, but controlled by two separate motors, because instead of connecting all the mechanic parts to a single motor, I was able to keep the steering motor very close to the front axle, gaining enough room behind it to fit in the turn signals mechanism controlled by a motor located elsewhere.

Thus, the list of motors is as follows:

  1. PF Medium motor for towing arm elevation, controlled by an IR receiver
  2. 71427 motor for towing fork elevation, controlled by an IR receiver
  3. PF Medium motor for extending side outriggers, controlled by a manual switch
  4. PF Medium motor for deploying side outriggers, controlled by a manual switch
  5. 71427 motor for deploying rear outriggers, coupled with the motor #4
  6. PF XL motor for drive, controlled by an IR receiver
  7. PF XL motor for drive, coupled with the motor #6
  8. PF Medium motor for controlling the reversing lights, coupled with the motors #6 and #7
  9. Micromotor for rotating the engine fan, coupled with the motors #6, #7 and #8
  10. PF Medium motor for driving the winch, controlled by an IR receiver
  11. PF Medium motor for extending the boom, controlled by an IR receiver
  12. PF Medium motor for rotating the superstructure, controlled by an IR receiver
  13. PF Medium motor for elevating the boom, controlled by an IR receiver
  14. 71427 motor for elevating axle #2, controlled by a manual switch
  15. PF Medium motor for steering, controlled by an IR receiver
  16. PF Medium motor for controlling the turn signals, coupled with the motor #15
  17. Micromotor for rotating the steering wheel, coupled with the motors #15 and #16

So, as you can see, the model uses all 8 IR channels and 3 manual switches to control all the functions. This means there are in fact 11 separate functions, and additional motors are used to control some functions together (e.g. the drive) or to couple some functions together without using mechanical connections (e.g. turn signals).

Except for 17 motors, 4 IR receivers and 3 switches, there are 5 more switches used inside the model (1 for controlling the lightbar, 1 for the reversing lights and 3 for my improved turn signals mechanism), as well as a number of 9V wires (for two 9V switches, lightbar and micromotors), 16 PF extension wires (9 short and 7 long ones) and 22 pairs of Lego PF LEDs. All these together include nearly 19 metres of electric wires, all of which is crammed inside the model. This picture gives an exact calculation and shows what the internal space looked like after most of the wire-cramming was already finished:

This amount of electric wires not only needed a very careful planning of the entire electric installation, which is powered from two separate Lego 8878 rechargeable batteries, each independently powering two IR receivers, but it also contributes significantly to model’s weight, and it required adding special ducts and spaces for wires in the model’s internal structure. For example, the largest duct is located directly above the side outriggers slot, inside the black bulge between the sleeper and the superstructure, and the largest space for wires can be found in the upper portion of the sleeper, where it was obviously needed due to all the four IR receivers residing there.

As for the side outriggers, which puzzled some viewers, their construction is in fact fairly simple and explained on the two following pictures, that show simplified (meaning: showing all the mechanic parts but with some structural parts removed so that they don’t obstruct the view) view of a retracted and extended outrigger respectively. Note that there are two identical outriggers side-to-side, rotated 180 degrees to each other, and extending in opposite directions. Each of them is controlled by a separate pair of gears, and there is a ridge of tiles separating them. The whole construction is somewhat fragile and unable to handle high torque, but since the outriggers are not meant to lift the model off the ground, there is no high torque involved.

To finish describing the model’s internal composition, from back to front:

  • the flat rear portion  of the body below the boom houses all the mechanics of the towing arm and rear outriggers, along the axle’s #2 elevation mechanism
  • the ‘box’ below the superstructure houses 6 motors, most of the drivetrain, almost entire turntable with its rotation mechanism and respective motor, motors that control turn signals and boom elevation, as well as the entire side outriggers with most of their mechanics
  • the superstructure houses most of the mechanics for the boom elevation, a motor that extends the boom and the winch with another motor driving it; locating the boom extension motor inside it took some precious space, but thanks to it the boom is simpler and stronger, looks better and extends to almost twice its length
  • the sleeper houses no motors (but there are two PF Mediums below it, on the sides of the chassis), but four IR receivers, one 8878 battery (accessible through the sunroof on the passenger’s side), the entire reversing lights mechanism, part of the turn signals mechanism, the rest of the side outriggers mechanics and huge amount of wires; there is also one internal LED that shines through one of its side windows
  • below the cabin, there is most of the turn signals mechanism, another 8878 battery sitting between the cabin and the engine compartment (accessible by opening the bonnet) and some wires; inside the cabin, there is one of the micromotors, while the other one sits inside the engine model under the bonnet

The model also features two ‘nods’ toward the Lego Black Cat set (other than the colours of the livery): a white cat used as the bonnet ornament, and the cabin’s doors which are unique for the Black Cat set, and which I bought when it turned out that the would perfectly match both the size & the colour theme of the cabin. As for the colours, rather than trying some fancy trails, I settled on a single large red stripe going through the entire body (and even around it, if you look at the model’s rear end), which includes four sets of little doors on the sides of the rear part of the truck. Three of these doors allow to access manual switches, while the fourth one reveals a mock-up control panel. There is also a thin red strip around the sleeper, which resulted from its internal structure: I needed to create a ‘shelf’ for IR receivers inside it, and I used a single layer of red plates for it, just to brighten it up a bit. As for the boom, I have put a lot of effort into making it perfectly smooth, with rounded edges, and I decided that some transverse black and red stripes would underline its shape nicely. The boom is internally a completely studless structure, with two ‘halves’ of studfull shell put over it, one in an upside-down position. The halves are not connected witch each other, but they are kept together by the boom’s structure and secured by large stickers on its sides. Finally, there are two small red plates on top of the cabin’s roof. This is because the original Peterbilt 379 uses distinctive rectangle-shaped hooters, and the part that modelled these ideally was a 1×2 jumper plate connected to a horizontal antenna. I wanted to have chrome hooter, to match the rest of the roof, but Lego does not chrome jumper plates and I had to have them custom chromed. The technique used for custom chroming, however, left the their bottoms chrome-less, and their bottoms would be their most visible part. So, for the lack of better options, I put two 1×2 plates to cover the bottoms of the chrome jumper plates. Note that the cabin’s roof is built to odd width, and fairly complex itself, as it includes openings not only for five LED’s wires, but also for five clips needed to hold the chrome pieces in proper position.

The model includes an extensive array of lights. There are 22 pairs of Lego LEDs (meaning 44 LEDs altogether) used for regular and decorative lights, for reversing lights and turn signals. Additionally, the lightbar uses 6 old 1×4 electric bricks with two light bulbs each, with these trans-yellow parts put over them. This idea was taken straight from M-longer’s Kenworth, except that I mounted the trans-yellow covers in a different way, and used six electric bricks rather than two. A very useful property of these bricks is that they can flash or shine continuously, depending on the polarity, without the need for any external mechanism to achieve the flashing effect. They are also very shine, with the only two drawbacks being their yellowish hue (I’ve tried to use them with trans-light-blue covers instead, and the effect was ugly) and their high power consumption when compared to LEDs.

The model was being regularly tested throughout the construction process, which – together with my preventive assumptions that it will be very heavy – paid off. Its drivetrain works flawlessly, even though it was obviously slow, which shows that the new differentials braced in the 5×7 liftarm frames can handle significant loads (there are two differentials here, as there are two driven axles, so there is an average load of 2.5 kg per a differential). The steering system, which was geared down 24:1 from the very beginning, seems to work effortlessly. The weight of the model affects the front tires, though – they are noticeably deformed by it, have a slight tendency to bend aside while turning, and make squeaking sounds when turning in place. The Lego 8878 batteries turned out to cope with the extremely complex electric system, even though I managed to completely empty one of them while testing the model. The superstructure tended to bend forward a bit with the boom fully elevated, and the side outriggers jammed from time to time, but I think these were acceptable costs of the model’s general complexity. Additionally, the linear actuators elevating the boom couldn’t fully retract or fully extend, but this was because of the boom colliding with parts of the superstructure; the connection between the boom and the superstructure had to be heavily reinforced, thus limiting boom’s movement at the cost of handling its considerable weight. It should be also noted that I have deliberately used small plastic hooks for the winch instead of big metal hooks for Lego cranes, used by both Grazi & M_longer. This is for increased realism: none of the many tow trucks I have browsed through uses hooks even remotely as large as the Lego metal ones, and none uses two sections of rope between the hook and the boom neither. Thus, the hooks I’ve chosen look much more accurate, but they are not synchronized and often hang at different heights. There is a way of keeping the drums of the winch synchronized by driving them through a differential between them, but there is no space for such a solution. Still, the boom includes a transverse pulley that can be used to keep two metal hooks connected by the same rope level, so I left this option open.

I was quite pleased with how the model turned out, considering it my most complex construction up to date.  It should be noted that it was based on my experience with my Kenworth Mammoet model rather than on those with my first tow truck. I believe it to be a mark of progress of both my technical and aesthetic skills. The only downside is that it’s my first model in 2011, and I already have little chance of building anything better this year 🙂

Work in progress photos:

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Photos (caution: some large ones included):

01.jpg 02.jpg 03.jpg 04.jpg 05.jpg 06.jpg 07.jpg 08.jpg 09.jpg 10.jpg 11.jpg 12.jpg 13.jpg 14.jpg 15.jpg 16.jpg 17.jpg dsc00753.jpg dsc00755.jpg dsc00766.jpg dsc00778.jpg dsc00779.jpg dsc00787.jpg dsc00788.jpg dsc00800.jpg dsc00808.jpg dsc00809.jpg dsc00811.jpg dsc00813.jpg dsc00815.jpg dsc00825.jpg dsc00832.jpg dsc00836.jpg dsc00837.jpg dsc00850.jpg dsc00863.jpg dsc00868.jpg dsc00874.jpg dsc00880.jpg dsc00883.jpg dsc00891.jpg dsc00894.jpg dsc00896.jpg dsc00901.jpg dsc00913.jpg dsc00920.jpg dsc00922.jpg dsc00923.jpg dsc00924.jpg dsc00931.jpg dsc00938.jpg dsc00944.jpg dsc00959.jpg dsc00961.jpg dsc00963.jpg dsc00968.jpg dsc00971.jpg dsc00972.jpg dsc00976.jpg dsc00977.jpg dsc00981.jpg dsc00988.jpg dsc00992.jpg dsc00997.jpg dsc01007.jpg dsc01014.jpg dsc01017.jpg dsc01018.jpg dsc01021.jpg dsc01023.jpg dsc01024.jpg dsc01029.jpg dsc01032.jpg dsc01036.jpg dsc01079.jpg dsc01081.jpg dsc01105.jpg dsc01106.jpg dsc01108.jpg peterbilt-379-wrecker-revell.jpg peterbilt-379-wrecker-revelll.jpg zoriginal1.jpg zoriginal2.jpg


Media reference:

Devicenation, Geeky Gadgets, Leganerd (Italian only), Technabob, Teknolelu (Finnish only), The Awesomer, The Brothers Brick, TowTimes

Categories: Trucks Tags: , ,
  1. Sariel
    May 15th, 2011 at 21:11 | #1

    No, I don’t.

  2. Jacques
    May 15th, 2011 at 19:06 | #2

    Hi Sir! How are you? I’m very fine 🙂 We look your tow truck, and I’m a guy who build very big projects, like you 🙂 So we interested to build your tow truck. We build some TEchnic models. So, I want to know if you have building instructions for your truck, and the parts list.

    Your truck is a Masterpiece! Don’t stop your good work!


  3. May 14th, 2011 at 21:31 | #3

    this is impressive dude, seriously great site

  4. Sariel
    May 8th, 2011 at 20:44 | #4

    Yes, they blink when you change polarity.

  5. mike
    May 7th, 2011 at 16:49 | #5

    hi sariel

    i realy don’t get the idee with the flashlights, with the old lightbulbs, do they blink when you change polarity. cause i really don’t get your instruction in the datasheet


  6. Sariel
    April 28th, 2011 at 22:43 | #6

    Nie, nic. Całość była od początku planowana pod dużą masę.

  7. BladeRunner
    April 28th, 2011 at 22:38 | #7

    jestem pod wrażeniem (kolejnym!!!). Bardzo ładny model, po prostu naładowany funkcjami!! Swoją drogą, to zębatki muszą wytrzymywać spore obciążenia, szczególnie te od napędu i sterowania (dość spora waga modelu) – nic nie “strzeliło” w trakcie testów?

  8. Sariel
    April 9th, 2011 at 20:41 | #8

    – I have no idea what kind of bodywork you want
    – judging from your previous questions I would have to extensively explain the location of every single piece
    – you’ve been given instruction for the complete chassis with all the mechanics, and adding a body to it is so hard that you need help from other people? Seriously, I’m starting to wonder if there is anything you don’t need help with.

  9. Cars2cool
    April 9th, 2011 at 20:33 | #9

    Why not?

  10. Sariel
    April 9th, 2011 at 20:29 | #10

    I can’t help you.

  11. Cars2cool
    April 9th, 2011 at 19:17 | #11

    Paul… I have made a number of 4wd chassis in the past but I am never able to complete the entire model. In other words, I don’t know how to make the bodywork surrounding the frame. Could you help me on how to build the frame of your Landrover. I built the frame already

  12. Sariel
    April 3rd, 2011 at 17:56 | #12

    Well, as clearly stated in every single video I make, you can buy any Lego piece at Bricklink. Linear actuators and chrome pieces are no exception.

  13. Cars2cool
    April 3rd, 2011 at 16:04 | #13

    Hey Paul, I was just wondering where you buy the linear actuators from the 8069 set from. I noticed that you used so many in this MOC. Also, where do you buy the chromed pieces from??

  14. Cars2cool
    April 3rd, 2011 at 01:25 | #14

    Thanks man! I appreciate your help. And… sorry for bothering you so much 🙁

  15. Sariel
    April 3rd, 2011 at 01:19 | #15

    You’re pulling my leg… All you have to do is to put a shaft through the switch, mount the clutch gear on it and mesh that gear with another gear that sits on the driveshaft. No offence, but I never imagined I will be explaining something that simple.

  16. Cars2cool
    April 3rd, 2011 at 00:02 | #16

    Look Paul, I’m really sorry but would you be able to make a Lego digital designer picture and show me. For some reason I just don’t get how it will all fit together

  17. Sariel
    April 2nd, 2011 at 23:44 | #17

    Of course it needs a clutch gear. Come on, the whole mechanism is just a few pieces.

  18. Cars2cool
    April 2nd, 2011 at 22:17 | #18

    So what happens is… you run the drive shaft through the switch. So, when the vehicle reverses it turns the switch on. Then, when the vehicle goes forward, the switch goes to the normal position, turning the reversing lights off. I kind of get it, but wouldn’t the axle stop moving at some point. Wouldn’t you need a clutch gear. Hope you can help me. Thanks!

  19. Sariel
    April 2nd, 2011 at 19:08 | #19

    The switch is partially blocked to go through on-off positions only, instead of on-off-on. That’s it. Like here: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Sariel/ideas/AutoTrafficators2/10.png

  20. Cars2cool
    April 2nd, 2011 at 17:39 | #20

    Yeah I know, but how does the mechanism turn on specifically when it goes in reverse. Please help me…Thanks in advance

  21. Sariel
    April 2nd, 2011 at 08:09 | #21

    It’s 5 kilograms. You know what a kilogram is?

    It’s just a switch connected to the driveshaft. It turns on when driving backward and off when driving forward.

  22. Cars2cool
    April 2nd, 2011 at 04:22 | #22

    How does the reverse lights mechanism work? Could you explain it to me please. By the Way, I love your site and creations

  23. Wreckahlovah
    April 1st, 2011 at 23:31 | #23

    that thing weighs five tonnes?


  24. Sariel
    March 21st, 2011 at 20:45 | #24
  25. João Pedro
    March 21st, 2011 at 20:04 | #25

    Did not have instructions for the mechanism to lift the wheel???

  26. Sariel
    March 14th, 2011 at 19:57 | #26

    No, I just reinforce the axles as much as possible, it usually reduced the negative camber to a low and tolerable value.

  27. SenatorBlutarsky
    March 14th, 2011 at 19:03 | #27


    I have one questions regarding very heavy models like this one: I have noticed that in heavy models, the wheel axles tend to bend, giving the wheels a slightly negative camber, which eventually causes the wheels to come off after playing with the model for a while. Do you do anything special to prevent this from happening? For example, do you tune the suspension so that the wheels have a slightly positive camber?

  28. Sariel
  29. March 7th, 2011 at 15:17 | #29

    Nieźle, 17 silników mimo możliwości jednoczesnego działania 4 odbiorników 🙂 Chyba nowy rekord, do tej pory widziałem konstrukcje najwyżej 14 silnikowe. Mam pytanie, jak nazywają się klocki trans yellow użyte do zrobienia dużego światła na wieży.

  30. Sariel
    March 1st, 2011 at 20:59 | #30

    Don’t know, I’m a little busy with my book right now, but I think it should be complete this month.

  31. bob
    March 1st, 2011 at 20:17 | #31

    and how long you think it will take to complete the monster truck on facebook?

  32. Sariel
    March 1st, 2011 at 19:57 | #32

    That depends on a project.

  33. bob
    March 1st, 2011 at 18:31 | #33

    how long are you building on a project?

  34. Sariel
    March 1st, 2011 at 17:46 | #34

    Ciężko się sprawdza takie rzeczy na modelu już rozłożonym.

  35. March 1st, 2011 at 17:20 | #35

    A czy możesz sprawdzić bo bardzo mnie to ciekawi ?

  36. Sariel
    March 1st, 2011 at 17:05 | #36

    Nie wiem.

  37. March 1st, 2011 at 16:54 | #37

    Jaki udźwig ma ramię ?

  38. Sariel
    February 28th, 2011 at 15:10 | #38

    Pierwszy w Windows Movie Makerze, drugi w Ulead Video Studio.

  39. February 28th, 2011 at 15:03 | #39

    W jakim programie zmontowałeś filmik ?

  40. Juicebox244
    February 25th, 2011 at 07:18 | #40

    wow, cant wait to see your next project! Great job on this one though!

  41. Sariel
    February 24th, 2011 at 17:12 | #41

    No to both questions. This MOC is not a good material for a set, by the way.

  42. Tomaris
    February 24th, 2011 at 16:49 | #42

    WOW!! That is a the MASTERPIECE OF MASTERPIECES!!!!! All your creations are masterpieces but this one is one of the best so far!
    There’s just one thing I’d like to know, aren’t the guys at Lego begging you to become a designer (or are you one already?)?!?

  43. February 24th, 2011 at 13:05 | #43

    Yeah, It is awesome, You come back to this type of building and it’s really better. Good job !

  44. technikfreak
    February 23rd, 2011 at 17:02 | #44

    tahnks i have buildt it and it is realy cool 🙂
    Sariel youtr models are very nice and very hard to buildt i mean

  45. Sariel
    February 22nd, 2011 at 13:57 | #45

    And it would be even nicer of you if you read the description, which explains everything and even provides links to Bricklink so that you can buy the required parts.

  46. technikfreak
    February 22nd, 2011 at 13:43 | #46

    hei sariel can you send me the the plans of the blinking lights on the roof ofe the tow truck ???? 😕 it would be nice from you

  47. zin
    February 22nd, 2011 at 11:48 | #47


    True, it takes a lot of patience, time and money but I think there will be more than four or five people willing to follow your guide. Why not setting up a poll and see how many of us are interested? Just a suggestion. 😉 Anyway, I know you won’t be making a tutorial for this so I’ll be waiting for your book. 🙂

  48. Sariel
    February 22nd, 2011 at 07:42 | #48

    MLCad and LDraw, you would know if you checked the FAQ.

  49. Colton
    February 22nd, 2011 at 01:01 | #49

    What program do you use to create models?

  50. Mr.M
    February 21st, 2011 at 20:10 | #50

    stop being difficult! 🙂

  51. Sariel
    February 19th, 2011 at 09:55 | #51

    I’m afraid that a tutorial would be useful to about three or four people in the world willing to spend enough money on parts and fully capable on putting them all together (and cramming the wiring tight enough) 😉

  52. zin
    February 19th, 2011 at 01:47 | #52

    gosh, this is awesome. I would like to build one too. Where should I start?

    It would be great if there’s a tutorial for this.

    amazing piece……..

  53. lewis
    February 19th, 2011 at 00:48 | #53

    Philipe :
    Sorry for my bad english.
    I made you understand wrong what I wanted.
    My robot is done, but there is a single problem that is this gearbox. The gears from this gearbox separates as the robot velocity grows up.
    I only was wondering to know if you have a solution to keeps this gears together.
    The picture at the link bellow shows how it is now.
    Sorry for annoying you.

    a solution for your problem philipe, is that the gears are not re-enforced properly.
    to solve it: take the outside wheel of, put a red brick with 5 holes in the middle of the two sets of gears, change the axle lengths from 5 to 6, put the wheel back on and it should be fine. good luck

  54. Sariel
    February 18th, 2011 at 23:53 | #54

    Still, I can’t help you and I remind you that this post is about my Tow Truck. I’m sure there are plenty of message boards of Lego robots builders where you can look for help. Good luck.

  55. February 18th, 2011 at 23:13 | #55

    Sorry for my bad english.
    I made you understand wrong what I wanted.
    My robot is done, but there is a single problem that is this gearbox. The gears from this gearbox separates as the robot velocity grows up.
    I only was wondering to know if you have a solution to keeps this gears together.

    The picture at the link bellow shows how it is now.

    Sorry for annoying you.

  56. Sariel
    February 18th, 2011 at 21:49 | #56

    I’m sorry Philippe, but no. I’m not going to build your robot for you.

  57. February 18th, 2011 at 21:43 | #57

    Sariel, I’am with a big problem and I was wondering to know if you can help me.
    At my robot, the gearbox is not fixing enough (sorry for the bad english).
    Could I send you the LDD (Lego Digital Designer) file that represents my robot to you maybe build it and help me finding a solution?
    Really thanks
    Philipe – FrancoDroid Team

  58. February 18th, 2011 at 18:49 | #58

    Love the Texas license plates! (And all the rest of it) Great job.

  59. February 17th, 2011 at 18:51 | #59

    Phew, I already thought I looked stupid by missing by that much… 🙂

  60. Sariel
    February 17th, 2011 at 08:30 | #60

    Yes, it is.

  61. February 17th, 2011 at 00:52 | #61

    Thank you
    I was wondering to know if you could tell me if this motorcycle tired is full of rubber (kind of dense rubber).

  62. Sariel
    February 16th, 2011 at 23:46 | #62

    I don’t know, but I know where you should look: http://isodomos.com/Visual-Parts-Helper/Lego-Wheel.html
    And no, I’m afraid we can’t talk over any instant messenger.

  63. February 16th, 2011 at 23:17 | #63

    continuing the last post (sorry for annoyng you)
    I’d like to know if this tire that you’ve gaven me the link fits on the wheels from the link


  64. February 16th, 2011 at 23:08 | #64

    Really thanks.
    I searched for wheel but there is no on bricklink.com
    Do you know if this tires fit in any other Lego wheel?

    Could I talk to you in a instantaneous message programme, like Windows Live Messenger, Teamspeak or Skype?

    My msn is philipemira@hotmail.com and my skype is philipe_moura

    Thank you

  65. Sariel
    February 16th, 2011 at 19:19 | #65

    I’m afraid these are very, very, very rare.

  66. February 16th, 2011 at 18:41 | #66

    Very nice construction.
    In June I am going to Netherlands to compet the European Open FLL Championship, but I need some pieces. Could you give me the ref number from some of them?
    First, I’d like to know the ref number from the tires that you have used at your Dodge motorcyle.
    Thanks for the attention.
    Philipe – FrancoDroid team

  67. Mike
    February 15th, 2011 at 20:41 | #67

    @Sariel Yeah I see your point 😀 after all, what would you call to rescue a rescue truck that rolled over? 😀

  68. Sariel
    February 15th, 2011 at 12:21 | #68

    No, I don’t think so. The first video and the description should be already fairly explanatory.

  69. lewis
    February 15th, 2011 at 10:53 | #69

    will there be a ‘how does it work’ film, like you’ve made for other large models?

  70. sqiddster
    February 15th, 2011 at 07:27 | #70

    Wow… simply extraordinary. I am especially impressed with the outriggers (genius) and the… well… everything. I commend you for managing to fit all those wires in the model, it must have been a pain ‘I just need to squish this last one in… *model falls apart* ) 😉

  71. Sariel
    February 14th, 2011 at 20:53 | #71

    Corrections, it seems that I’ve forgotten some maths, the model is actually at nearly 1:17 scale.

  72. Sariel
    February 14th, 2011 at 19:46 | #72

    There are some pictures from the underneath among the Work In Progress photos. Later it was difficult to lay the model on side due to its weight and fragile details.

  73. Mike
    February 14th, 2011 at 19:17 | #73

    Astonishing. Great job!!
    Can you post some pictures from underneath? If you can find something that can support the truck while you dare to climb under it.. 😀

  74. February 14th, 2011 at 13:13 | #74

    Oh, thanks. (It was just a random shot judged by the wheel size.) Hope You’re well now, keep up the great work!

  75. Sariel
    February 14th, 2011 at 12:21 | #75

    Its 1:12.5, exactly.

  76. February 14th, 2011 at 12:09 | #76

    Oh, just one more thing. What scale is that, 1:17? I couldn’t find it in the text.

  77. February 14th, 2011 at 12:02 | #77

    It seemed to me I would spoil the enjoyment with seeing the WIP stuff on Facebook, but I was wrong! I enjoyed the whole story of this model and I like everything about it (apart from the chrome, it’s just not my thing). Superb!

  78. Lexhoya
    February 14th, 2011 at 09:33 | #78

    Holy… grail. Really great, no words to describe this model. You have moc’s and MOC’s. THis is a MOC! Now all you need to learn is how to back up with a trailer with this beast (10:45).
    I saw that while turning this beast, the middle rear-axle was trying to wrench it’s wheel out (11:34)
    @Sawyer: it’s because wordpress gets many hits and is smiling about it 🙂

  79. bejuizb
    February 14th, 2011 at 07:02 | #79

    Holy COW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    that is the best truck i’ve ever seen!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  80. Sariel
    February 13th, 2011 at 22:29 | #80

    They don’t look like Tumbler’s rear wheels and they’re too big for Tumbler’s front wheels. No worries, it’s not the wheels that are tricky about Tumbler.

  81. February 13th, 2011 at 22:21 | #81

    use them for a tumbler 😉

  82. Sariel
    February 13th, 2011 at 21:39 | #82

    I would like to use these wheels somehow, but I don’t know yet what they will be good for.

    No, using two 20-tooth idler gears does not reduce the movement, and it would be the same with a single idler gear (I used two just to minimize the risk of gears skipping). And no, there is no space for more u-joints in the fork.

  83. Sariel
    February 13th, 2011 at 21:36 | #83

    Yes, that’s me trying to achieve perspective 🙂

  84. niels
    February 13th, 2011 at 21:14 | #84

    picture 5 of 83 from the down picture gallery
    one of the accus is bigger

  85. February 13th, 2011 at 20:59 | #85

    This is the best truck I’ve ever seen. Unbelievable combination of design and functionality! Figuring out where the drivelines are and how everything is connected totally puzzles me!

    Nonetheless I have a few questions/recommendations: Why are you using two 20t idler gears in the mounting bracket of the boom? Doesn’t it limit the elevation travel?
    And maybe you could align the U-Joints in the towing fork in parallel orientation to reduce vibrations!

  86. kyle
    February 13th, 2011 at 20:55 | #86

    thanks for including the pic for the side out riggers, i hade an incling that that was how it was done 🙂

  87. lewis
    February 13th, 2011 at 20:38 | #87

    when the new larger truck wheels are available in summer from the unimog,http://technicbricks.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2011-02-09T10:16:00Z&max-results=8
    will you make a larger truck? i assume this idea will not be straight away since the wheels are new and will be quite rare.

  88. daniel
    February 13th, 2011 at 20:19 | #88

    This is just……astounding. This ,in my opinion, is one of you best builds yet. Would it be okay if I posted the video and this site on a rc forum I know of.

    Cant wait to see what ya got next.

  89. Sariel
    February 13th, 2011 at 20:02 | #89

    No, it’s not possible here.

  90. Sariel
    February 13th, 2011 at 20:01 | #90

    That’s what WordPress Stats do.

  91. lewis
    February 13th, 2011 at 19:50 | #91

    no, i mean steered slightly possibly to aid the front steering.

  92. February 13th, 2011 at 19:30 | #92

    I just noticed the smiley in the bottom-left corner of every page. Is that on purpose?

  93. February 13th, 2011 at 19:27 | #93

    This is by far the best, and most complete model have ever seen. Great job.

  94. Sariel
    February 13th, 2011 at 19:25 | #94

    Steered? I think you mean driven?

  95. Sariel
    February 13th, 2011 at 19:25 | #95

    @David Luders
    No way, that would take an entire book itself.

  96. lewis
    February 13th, 2011 at 19:09 | #96

    this is amazing! your best model yet, but could the 2nd axle be steered??? i am trying this and it is going well. i like the custom stickers and the great way of using the mini LA’s for the outriggers!

  97. David Luders
    February 13th, 2011 at 18:56 | #97

    Wow! Are you planning on including this MASTERPIECE in your upcoming Lego Technic book?

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