Home > News > Instruction for Land Rover’s chassis available for download

Instruction for Land Rover’s chassis available for download

March 10th, 2011 Leave a comment Go to comments

A complete, step-by-step instruction for the chassis of my 2010 Land Rover model is available for you in the Downloads section.

My last vehicle built for the 2010 Truck Trial season was a relatively simple model of the Land Rover series 2. It has participated in two races, with no luck, but it proved to be mechanically flawless, just suffering from poor power-to-weight ratio. It had a fairly heavy bodywork, and was driven by a single XL motor geared down 5:1 – which turned out to be insufficient. Still, the model’s chassis was technically more advanced and superior to the chassis of my earlier Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, instruction for which has gathered much acclaim. For example, it was completely studless and thus generally lighter and more compact, and it used turntables to attach the axles to the chassis, which prevented model’s weight from putting load on the driveshaft.

When the 2010 competition ended, I made a promise to create & publish the instruction for the chassis. I did not want to create instruction for the complete model, including the bodywork, for three reasons: because it would be much longer and more complex, because the body proved too heavy for a single XL motor geared 5:1, and finally because I prefer to provide others with a technically sound foundation for their own models with their own bodyworks, rather than with a complete instruction that leaves little or no place for one’s own creativity. It took a while, but finally the instruction is available in the Downloads section.

Just like in Jeep’s case, there are two versions of the instruction available for download: a lightweight one in a PDF file, and a high quality one in form of high-resolution PNG images. Both include a complete parts list and a blueprint I was using to build the original model. Please note that unlike the Jeep’s instruction, this one concerns a construction that will be most likely completely hidden under the bodywork of your choice, so the colours I have used in it should be considered clearly optional. I was, of course, using default Lego colours whenever possible, e.g. to show the difference between pins with friction and pins without friction. It is also important that the original model used yellow shock absorbers, which are the hardest. If you choose to use softer shock absorbers instead, the stability of the chassis may deteriorate, especially under a heavy body.

Finally, please keep in mind that this is an extremely robust design, created with extreme outdoor racing in mind, and thus it may include more reinforcements than you actually need. Additionally, this is a relatively advanced chassis for a simple 4×4 vehicle – if you find it more complex or more parts-expensive than you need, consider the Jeep’s chassis as a simpler alternative.

Proceed to Downloads section »

Video of the original model:

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  1. Sariel
    August 7th, 2014 at 19:40 | #1

    I don’t know.

  2. Artwodeetwo
    August 7th, 2014 at 18:57 | #2

    Hi Sariel, how hard would it be to make another rear axel and make it a 6×6 drive train? How far is it from the centre of the rear axel to the end of the model?

  3. Ajax
    September 6th, 2012 at 15:04 | #3

    What a pitty.. Thanks anyway! 🙂

  4. Sariel
    September 6th, 2012 at 14:56 | #4

    From MLCad, but I only modeled the chassis, not the whole model.

  5. Ajax
    September 6th, 2012 at 14:55 | #5

    Hello And thanks for answer!

    So, from which program images in instruction came?


  6. Sariel
    September 6th, 2012 at 14:44 | #6

    It’s not possible. I don’t have any LDD model and the real model was disassembled a long time ago.

  7. Ajax
    September 6th, 2012 at 09:23 | #7


    I have a friend really in love with his Land Rover and Lego. I would like to buy him bricks and let him build your Land Rover, but I need whole model, no just chassis. Is it possible to send me LDD model to email? If so, I swear I’ll buy your book! 🙂

    Thanks and greetings Czech Republic

  8. Sariel
    April 13th, 2012 at 19:03 | #8

    Yellow = hard.

  9. hidde
    April 13th, 2012 at 18:02 | #9

    What type of shock absorbers did you used(hard spring, soft spring…)?

  10. nicolas
    March 28th, 2012 at 17:55 | #10

    yes I did the front, because it works.
    but why the jeep wrangler is worse than the land rover

  11. Sariel
    March 27th, 2012 at 17:58 | #11

    And I’m telling you it works anyway. I have built this thing, you know.

  12. nicolas
    March 27th, 2012 at 17:24 | #12

    when a damper is contracted the other damper is bent because of these parts

  13. Sariel
    March 26th, 2012 at 20:46 | #13

    They work as intended, I assure you.

  14. nicolas
  15. Sariel
    October 2nd, 2011 at 10:19 | #15

    Not necessarily.

  16. October 2nd, 2011 at 00:56 | #16

    (the, not thee!)

  17. October 2nd, 2011 at 00:55 | #17

    will thee same type of suspension on each axle work better?

  18. Sariel
    October 1st, 2011 at 08:59 | #18

    Yes, it should.

  19. October 1st, 2011 at 02:55 | #19

    do you think that a trial truck with pendular suspension on the front and a live axle on the back would preform well?

  20. Sariel
    July 17th, 2011 at 23:56 | #20

    Yes, you do. It’s not like I used it just for decoration.

  21. josh
    July 17th, 2011 at 23:53 | #21

    hey i dont have the diff. in the middle do i need that

  22. Sariel
    May 22nd, 2011 at 00:56 | #22

    One: buy the large ones.

  23. Tim
    May 22nd, 2011 at 00:46 | #23

    Hi i like the design, im building something like it but i dont have any large motors and the small ones cant move the the car. any advice?

  24. technikfreak
    May 17th, 2011 at 20:44 | #24

    jeah only with full batterie

  25. Paul
    May 15th, 2011 at 00:43 | #25

    Ok,thanks for the quick reply! 😀

  26. Sariel
    May 15th, 2011 at 00:36 | #26

    Well, the steering is obviously worse than with the differential, but the off-road performance is much better than with one.

  27. Paul
    May 15th, 2011 at 00:20 | #27

    Hello,I have always admired your work and am thinking about building this,but I have a question. Since there is no differential for the wheels, how does it affect the steering?

  28. technikfreak
    May 1st, 2011 at 17:30 | #28

    Jeah that´s right xD

  29. Sariel
    April 25th, 2011 at 19:37 | #29

    It’s slow, but it can climb almost everywhere.

  30. technikfreak
    April 25th, 2011 at 19:28 | #30

    i hve built it it´s great but a little bit slow:-)

  31. louis0304
    April 17th, 2011 at 15:53 | #31

    There is a mistake from page 58 to 59.at first there are 3l pins in the 3l beam.in the next pic they are still looking out of the 7l beam.

  32. Sariel
    April 16th, 2011 at 07:57 | #32

    Mogą się poruszać.

  33. HI!
    April 15th, 2011 at 18:01 | #33

    Możesz powiedzieć jak to możliwe, że przednie zawieszenie się *pochyla?* na boki skoro te 2 przednie amortyzatory nie mogą się poruszać?!
    Dzięki 😀 (jestem słaby w te klocki)

  34. Sariel
    April 12th, 2011 at 16:21 | #34
  35. adithya
    April 12th, 2011 at 16:14 | #35

    hey, is it possible for you to make a small, suspension free front wheel drive chasis?

  36. Sariel
    April 6th, 2011 at 19:09 | #36

    @Max K
    Thank you. It’s nice to know people enjoy what I share 🙂

  37. Max K
    April 6th, 2011 at 16:22 | #37

    Very nice frame,quite simple but at the same time very complex, Im a hobby builder with a passion for 4×4, i love your work, you are like my inspiration i can say. I used your chassy to make a Jeep Willis, brilliant design but i only changed the suspension. Since the willis almost has no body panels at all it was fairly light model, so i removed the front shocks to give the front axle more movement and at the rear fitted 2 grey instead of 4 yellow shocks, result- magnificent suspension travel with nice flat ride, stability on slopes slightly suffered but the willis has no roof so the COG is very low, brilliant work Sariel cant wait to see more of your creations

  38. Sariel
    March 29th, 2011 at 22:08 | #38

    Jakoś tego nie widzę.

  39. mientos
    March 29th, 2011 at 21:53 | #39

    Ale w zawodach LUGPol. Za jego pośrednictwem możesz stworzyć własne.

  40. Sariel
    March 29th, 2011 at 14:25 | #40

    Cóż, ja już jeżdżę w zawodach w Warszawie.

  41. Marq
    March 29th, 2011 at 14:11 | #41

    Może zawody truck trial? Twoje podwozie i dowolna karoseria auta terenowego? Coś jak zlot fanów ferrari we Włoszech. Można się ścigać wszystkim byle o tej marce. Ciekawa alternatywa szarej nudy.

  42. Woyta
    March 16th, 2011 at 23:25 | #42

    Great. Thanks.

  43. Sariel
    March 15th, 2011 at 20:36 | #43

    It’s instruction for the chassis only. It was the same for both versions.

  44. opicap
    March 15th, 2011 at 20:24 | #44

    Is in instruction instruction for ver. 2 ?

  45. supersparrow
    March 12th, 2011 at 10:11 | #45

    i wish you could make instructions for the hummer H1. Oh yeah great offroad chassis, well done. 🙂

  46. Sariel
    March 11th, 2011 at 07:36 | #46

    I’m surprised, I’ve been driving it ourdoors in mud and grass and it didn’t part. Yes, a driveshaft made of short axles with axle joiners will be quite twisting-resistant.

  47. Neal
    March 11th, 2011 at 03:49 | #47

    Split an 8-tooth on rear portal in initial testing, and the front axel keeps parting under load, mostly just driving round the lounge on carpet.

  48. Neal
    March 11th, 2011 at 01:48 | #48

    Built now, looks great. just deciding on position of the batterybox, etc.
    Talking of that, i built a truck recently which incorporated the 54950c02 batterybox as the lower chassis running the central propshafts just above it. While ground clearance was not as high as this chassis, the CoG was nice and low.

    Quick question, in practice with this chassis do the long propshafts cause transmission wind? would building from axel joiners and short axels be best? i guess i need to try it out…

  49. Sariel
    March 10th, 2011 at 23:04 | #49

    Just like with the Wrangler – according to our rules, piston engine is not needed if you place drive motor where the original engine is.

  50. March 10th, 2011 at 22:16 | #50

    Why doesn’t it have a fake engine ? And I don’t think the always-compressed spring on the rear is a good ideas, even throught there is a turntable.

  51. Sariel
    March 10th, 2011 at 16:27 | #51

    That is explained in the description.

  52. Alessandro
    March 10th, 2011 at 16:20 | #52

    Excuse me but why land rover is better than rubicon jeep?
    Thanx for your time.

  53. Sariel
    March 10th, 2011 at 16:05 | #53

    Land Rover.

  54. Alessandro
    March 10th, 2011 at 15:56 | #54

    Hi Sariel,
    What is your better jeep??Wrangler Rubicon or Land-Rover?

    Thanx and excuse me for bad english =D

  55. Sariel
    March 10th, 2011 at 15:13 | #55

    No. Sorry, this casing is present in 52 Lego sets and can be bought at less than $1 at Bricklink – it should be fairly easy to get one.

  56. Joan
    March 10th, 2011 at 15:09 | #56

    Is there any way to build this model without using the diff casing? Or using the other kind of diff casing?

  57. Neal
    March 10th, 2011 at 11:39 | #57


    I found it too tight with the 12 tooth, unless the 4×1 plate was removed. I guess the 12 will make it quicker lock to lock.
    Understand about the travel, I’d just thought there would be more, but what you say makes sense. Like how you have used the diff casing to get the steering through the turntable. I’d have never thought of that!

  58. Sariel
    March 10th, 2011 at 07:46 | #58

    12 tooth should fit too – I was using it. Yes, the suspension has small travel. It’s a 4×4 with a large gap between axles, it doesn’t need large suspension travel.

  59. Neal
    March 10th, 2011 at 05:01 | #59

    Front axel built, is it correct that there is little movement when the front shocks are attached? I expected to have more travel.
    Also, the wrong size pinion for the steering has been shown in the plans. 12 tooth shown, but 8 pin fits.

  60. Neal
    March 10th, 2011 at 01:36 | #60

    Thank-you! I’m going to start building this now, with the view of creating a Rangerover.

  61. David Luders
    March 10th, 2011 at 01:33 | #61

    Thanks, Paul, for making the Building Instructions for the Land Rover chassis! There will soon be many customized Lego Technic Land Rovers roaming throughout the world.

  1. June 18th, 2012 at 22:37 | #1