Instruction for Land Rover’s chassis available for download
A complete, step-by-step instruction for the chassis of my 2010 Land Rover model is available for you in the Downloads section.
My last vehicle built for the 2010 Truck Trial season was a relatively simple model of the Land Rover series 2. It has participated in two races, with no luck, but it proved to be mechanically flawless, just suffering from poor power-to-weight ratio. It had a fairly heavy bodywork, and was driven by a single XL motor geared down 5:1 – which turned out to be insufficient. Still, the model’s chassis was technically more advanced and superior to the chassis of my earlier Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, instruction for which has gathered much acclaim. For example, it was completely studless and thus generally lighter and more compact, and it used turntables to attach the axles to the chassis, which prevented model’s weight from putting load on the driveshaft.
When the 2010 competition ended, I made a promise to create & publish the instruction for the chassis. I did not want to create instruction for the complete model, including the bodywork, for three reasons: because it would be much longer and more complex, because the body proved too heavy for a single XL motor geared 5:1, and finally because I prefer to provide others with a technically sound foundation for their own models with their own bodyworks, rather than with a complete instruction that leaves little or no place for one’s own creativity. It took a while, but finally the instruction is available in the Downloads section.
Just like in Jeep’s case, there are two versions of the instruction available for download: a lightweight one in a PDF file, and a high quality one in form of high-resolution PNG images. Both include a complete parts list and a blueprint I was using to build the original model. Please note that unlike the Jeep’s instruction, this one concerns a construction that will be most likely completely hidden under the bodywork of your choice, so the colours I have used in it should be considered clearly optional. I was, of course, using default Lego colours whenever possible, e.g. to show the difference between pins with friction and pins without friction. It is also important that the original model used yellow shock absorbers, which are the hardest. If you choose to use softer shock absorbers instead, the stability of the chassis may deteriorate, especially under a heavy body.
Finally, please keep in mind that this is an extremely robust design, created with extreme outdoor racing in mind, and thus it may include more reinforcements than you actually need. Additionally, this is a relatively advanced chassis for a simple 4×4 vehicle – if you find it more complex or more parts-expensive than you need, consider the Jeep’s chassis as a simpler alternative.
Proceed to Downloads section Β»
@Artwodeetwo
I don’t know.
Hi Sariel, how hard would it be to make another rear axel and make it a 6×6 drive train? How far is it from the centre of the rear axel to the end of the model?
@Sariel
What a pitty.. Thanks anyway! π
@Ajax
From MLCad, but I only modeled the chassis, not the whole model.
Hello And thanks for answer!
So, from which program images in instruction came?
Thanks,
Ajax
@Ajax
It’s not possible. I don’t have any LDD model and the real model was disassembled a long time ago.
Hello!
I have a friend really in love with his Land Rover and Lego. I would like to buy him bricks and let him build your Land Rover, but I need whole model, no just chassis. Is it possible to send me LDD model to email? If so, I swear I’ll buy your book! π
Thanks and greetings Czech Republic
Ajax
@hidde
Yellow = hard.
What type of shock absorbers did you used(hard spring, soft spring…)?
@Sariel
yes I did the front, because it works.
but why the jeep wrangler is worse than the land rover
@nicolas
And I’m telling you it works anyway. I have built this thing, you know.
@Sariel
when a damper is contracted the other damper is bent because of these parts
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=32316&ccName=4210686
@nicolas
They work as intended, I assure you.
the dampers are blocked by these two piece:
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogPG.asp?P=48989&colorID=86
and
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=32316&ccName=4210686
@TheTechnicKiwi
Not necessarily.
(the, not thee!)
will thee same type of suspension on each axle work better?
@TheTechnicKiwi
Yes, it should.
hi
do you think that a trial truck with pendular suspension on the front and a live axle on the back would preform well?
@josh
Yes, you do. It’s not like I used it just for decoration.
hey i dont have the diff. in the middle do i need that
@Tim
One: buy the large ones.
Hi i like the design, im building something like it but i dont have any large motors and the small ones cant move the the car. any advice?
@Sariel
jeah only with full batterie
Ok,thanks for the quick reply! π
@Paul
Well, the steering is obviously worse than with the differential, but the off-road performance is much better than with one.
Hello,I have always admired your work and am thinking about building this,but I have a question. Since there is no differential for the wheels, how does it affect the steering?
Jeah thatΒ΄s right xD
@technikfreak
It’s slow, but it can climb almost everywhere.
i hve built it itΒ΄s great but a little bit slow:-)
There is a mistake from page 58 to 59.at first there are 3l pins in the 3l beam.in the next pic they are still looking out of the 7l beam.
@HI!
MogΔ siΔ poruszaΔ.
Witam!
MoΕΌesz powiedzieΔ jak to moΕΌliwe, ΕΌe przednie zawieszenie siΔ *pochyla?* na boki skoro te 2 przednie amortyzatory nie mogΔ siΔ poruszaΔ?!
DziΔki π (jestem sΕaby w te klocki)
@adithya
Take your pick: http://sariel.pl/category/ideas/
hey, is it possible for you to make a small, suspension free front wheel drive chasis?
@Max K
Thank you. It’s nice to know people enjoy what I share π
Very nice frame,quite simple but at the same time very complex, Im a hobby builder with a passion for 4×4, i love your work, you are like my inspiration i can say. I used your chassy to make a Jeep Willis, brilliant design but i only changed the suspension. Since the willis almost has no body panels at all it was fairly light model, so i removed the front shocks to give the front axle more movement and at the rear fitted 2 grey instead of 4 yellow shocks, result- magnificent suspension travel with nice flat ride, stability on slopes slightly suffered but the willis has no roof so the COG is very low, brilliant work Sariel cant wait to see more of your creations
@mientos
JakoΕ tego nie widzΔ.
Ale w zawodach LUGPol. Za jego poΕrednictwem moΕΌesz stworzyΔ wΕasne.
@Marq
CΓ³ΕΌ, ja juΕΌ jeΕΌdΕΌΔ w zawodach w Warszawie.
MoΕΌe zawody truck trial? Twoje podwozie i dowolna karoseria auta terenowego? CoΕ jak zlot fanΓ³w ferrari we WΕoszech. MoΕΌna siΔ ΕcigaΔ wszystkim byle o tej marce. Ciekawa alternatywa szarej nudy.
Great. Thanks.
@opicap
It’s instruction for the chassis only. It was the same for both versions.
Is in instruction instruction for ver. 2 ?
i wish you could make instructions for the hummer H1. Oh yeah great offroad chassis, well done. π
@Neal
I’m surprised, I’ve been driving it ourdoors in mud and grass and it didn’t part. Yes, a driveshaft made of short axles with axle joiners will be quite twisting-resistant.
@Neal
Split an 8-tooth on rear portal in initial testing, and the front axel keeps parting under load, mostly just driving round the lounge on carpet.
Built now, looks great. just deciding on position of the batterybox, etc.
Talking of that, i built a truck recently which incorporated the 54950c02 batterybox as the lower chassis running the central propshafts just above it. While ground clearance was not as high as this chassis, the CoG was nice and low.
Quick question, in practice with this chassis do the long propshafts cause transmission wind? would building from axel joiners and short axels be best? i guess i need to try it out…
@Nico71
Just like with the Wrangler – according to our rules, piston engine is not needed if you place drive motor where the original engine is.
Why doesn’t it have a fake engine ? And I don’t think the always-compressed spring on the rear is a good ideas, even throught there is a turntable.
@Alessandro
That is explained in the description.
Excuse me but why land rover is better than rubicon jeep?
Thanx for your time.
@Alessandro
Land Rover.
Hi Sariel,
What is your better jeep??Wrangler Rubicon or Land-Rover?
Thanx and excuse me for bad english =D
@Joan
No. Sorry, this casing is present in 52 Lego sets and can be bought at less than $1 at Bricklink – it should be fairly easy to get one.
Is there any way to build this model without using the diff casing? Or using the other kind of diff casing?
@Sariel
I found it too tight with the 12 tooth, unless the 4×1 plate was removed. I guess the 12 will make it quicker lock to lock.
Understand about the travel, I’d just thought there would be more, but what you say makes sense. Like how you have used the diff casing to get the steering through the turntable. I’d have never thought of that!
@Neal
12 tooth should fit too – I was using it. Yes, the suspension has small travel. It’s a 4×4 with a large gap between axles, it doesn’t need large suspension travel.
@Neal
Front axel built, is it correct that there is little movement when the front shocks are attached? I expected to have more travel.
Also, the wrong size pinion for the steering has been shown in the plans. 12 tooth shown, but 8 pin fits.
Thank-you! I’m going to start building this now, with the view of creating a Rangerover.
Thanks, Paul, for making the Building Instructions for the Land Rover chassis! There will soon be many customized Lego Technic Land Rovers roaming throughout the world.