Pagani Zonda
Model of one of the world’s most exotic supercars. Features full suspension, high-speed propulsion system, and custom stickers. Update: instruction for non-steered suspension module available in Downloads section.
Datasheet:
Completion date: 02/09/2012
Power: electric (RC unit)
Dimensions: length 61 studs / width 30 studs / height 18 studs (not including antennae)
Weight: 1.996 kg
Suspension: full independent
Propulsion: 4 x RC motor geared 1:1
Motors: 4 x RC motor, 1 x PF Medium
Top speed: 15.41 kmph
Pagani Zonda is sometimes said to be a phenomenon rather than a car. Among the reasons is the fact that it successfully combines high-tech chassis and body with a vintage-styled interior which feels like in early racing cars from 30’s, as well as the fact that each of very few Zondas is assembled almost entirely by hand (including even the engine). The result is an unique blend of superb performance and beauty of a handiwork. And since there is no assembly line, the manufacturer can easily modify and improve the car – in fact, the basic Zonda has seen no less than 13 various versions before the advent of Pagani Huayra, which is a new model partially based on the Zonda.
I decided to build a model when I found out that I own four LEGO RC buggy motors, well-suited for high-speed applications, and that I can afford a second RC unit to use all of them together (as one RC unit can power two RC motors at most). It was a natural decision to build a supercar model designed for speed, and the Zonda was the best choice because it’s body could accommodate for two RC units behind the cabin.
The model was supposed to look good and drive fast. To achieve the latter, both weight and complexity were cut to minimum. Since all the motors and RC units were quite heavy, I made up for it by creating an ultra-light body made only of edges with a handful of chosen details. This involved using flexible axles which are available mostly in red, and hence the entire body is red. To make the chassis easily seen “through” the body and thus make the body appear translucent, I used black pieces for it whenever possible.
The model’s propulsion system affected all wheels, even though the original Zonda is a RWD car. Driving all wheels allowed to better use the combined power of all motors, improved the weight distribution and simplified the transmission system. The drivetrain was also less stressed this way, and it still handled significant stress – the gears in the rear differential snapped on several occasions when I attempted braking with reverse.
The four RC motors were coupled in two pairs using adders, which drove differentials. One pair drove the front axle and another drove the rear axle – each powered and controlled by a separate RC unit. Thus the model had technically two separate propulsion systems – if the RC units were set to various channels, front and rear axles could be controlled independently.
The axles were nearly identical, with typical double wishbone suspension using two short hard shock absorbers per wheel. The front axle was steered by a PF Medium motor located in front of it, connected to the left RC unit and rotating the steering wheel too. The model had a fairly good steering lock, and the combination of wide slick tires and differentials made it handle very well. Based on my earlier experiences with fast models, I fine-tuned the steering system for high precision, allowing very subtle corrections while driving straight, and I didn’t include return-to-center function which makes steering such a model harder rather than easier.
With fresh, good quality batteries the model had plenty of power and excellent acceleration. It suggested that its top speed of 15.41 km/h (at this scale equivalent to 132.5 km/h in the real car) is not the end of what can be achieved with four RC motors. Using different wheels, faster motors’ outputs and cutting weight lower can result in even higher speed. Using a gearbox can be a good idea too, although earlier experiences indicate that extra weight and extra complication to the transmission system generate loss of power that can annul all benefits of using a gearbox.
All in all, the model provided an interesting experience and was very pleasant to drive. It proved very realistic in how its performance was affected by factors such as weight distribution, propulsion system, type of tires and of suspension, and I liked the look of its somewhat experimental body.
Work in progress photos:
Photos:
Video:
Media reference:
8studs (Polish only), Autoblog.nl (Dutch only), Damn Geeky, Hobby Media (Italian only), Ridelust, The LEGO Car Blog
Co to za czcionka użyta a początku przy pierwszym zdjęciu auta ?
@EpicMOC
Like this? http://sariel.pl/2014/04/torpedo-trike/
I would like to see a vehicle (chassis only) designed for speed only. My record (with one EV3 Mindstorms kit) is around 16kmph top over 10m.
The highest speed anything has gone is a calculated 53mph (a tiny part flung off a fan powered by 2 EV3 motors 1:27
Given the fact that your Paganini is 48cm long, and runs at 15.41km/h,
And given that the real Paganini is 434cm long;
We can compute the equivalent real speed : (15,41 x 434 ) / 48 = 139,33kmph.
Not bad !
@paul
Thanks.
I know this is a fairly old model, but I have just been looking at it again – since I just went and got myself the RC elements. Just wanted to say that you did a great job on it – it looks great.
Przednie obudowy reflektorów otoczone są oponami lego 8mm x 9mm (sliki), wewnątrz jest okrągły klocek lego 1 na który przychodzi “klosz” z Clikits-a.
@Szymon P
Jakiejś małej, nie pamiętam.
a obudowa zewnętrzna świateł, z czego wykonana? z opony? jakiej?
@Szymon P
Tak, to są te światła.
moze z tych klockow byly wykonane swiatła? http://www.bricklink.com/store.asp?p=BRICK_CHICK&itemID=53752148
, a obwoluta świateł – koła (guma), jakich?
@Szymon P
Nie pamiętam, poza tym że były prawie niemożliwe do dostania.
Jakich klocków użyłeś do budowy przednich świateł i kierunkowsazów?
@GUILLAUME
On my brain.
Hello
nice work your car. On what software you work to make your models?
thank you
@Witherley
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=x873c01
About the rear axle and how it uses the element at the end of the suspension arms that you used at the end of the Trophy Truck steering arms? The one that looks sort of like a portal axle in the sense of the 3 peg parts? With that light-grey piece attached to the end that allows the motor to transfer power to the wheels that way, would that inhibit the ability for it to steer? Or are the small light-grey wheel pieces the only thing stopping it from steering? I’d like to know because I might like to buy the pieces and make a sort of 4×4 off-road vehicle. Also would the 42021 Snowmobile suspension arms work in place of the suspension arms you used?
@Bryan.K
Perhaps a little.
since there were four of rc motors couldnt you increase the gear ratio to make it faster? just wondering.. it seems like enough power to do so.. with original speed 2 rc motors would be enough .. idk i never had those motors.. just wondering
@Florian Renner
Not going to happen, sorry.
can you make more instructions about the pagani zonda please. i am a really fan of you and the pagani and i would like to buy it but i need instructions:please
@Florian Renner
No.
Can i buy it?
@David
Not really, I’m afraid. Probably my Zonda is the best tip I can offer.
Sariel, do you have any tips for building a pagani huayra?
@Sariel
Yes, but the difference of weight in that position would be important, seen the experiments I’ve done (with all the parts I destroyed!) 😉 Anyway, you know, this model is amazing 🙂
@gabry
Did you consider that smaller tires have smaller circumference? Meaning that they would slow the model down?
why didn’t you try to put on it smaller tyres? They would probably look worse, but thy’re lighter, as you say in more recent posts… I think the Zonda could be even faster
@Robert
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=22969c04
81.6 x 36 R ?
@Robert
10 studów.
Jakiej wielkości kół użyłeś do tego modelu?
@AZK11
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=3961
Hi Sariel! Your model is amazing! Can you tell me what pics you used to make the rims black? They must have originaly been grey because the first picture you put up showed the model (not finished yet) with grey rims. Thank you!
@Attika
I have used part that is available since 2008: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?pg=1&q=extension+wire&catLike=W&v=2
And I don’t remember steering ratio, sorry. Just pick the one you like, if it’s too fast gear it down, if it’s too slow gear it up.
Hi Sariel, may I ask you how did you pair the PF motor and the rc unit? As much as I know those have different connectors. I have no better idea then a modified part. (extension cables from both set should be cuted and biult together). Before I grab the knife to destroy pieces of my collection for a higher purpose I’d like to get confirmation.
And what gear ratio did you use for the steering system. (black parts make it inpossible to reverse engineer it) 🙂
This is a nice piece of work again as usual.
Many thanks and keep building
Attika
@Sariel
I’m very interested in the chassis. I already have shocks and suspension components, and obviously many other technic parts. I want the electric components!
@gabry
Most, probably. All, unlikely.
@Sariel
Ok. With almost 200€ could I buy most parts of this model, in your opinion, at bricklink?
@gabry
Probably because it’s a lot heavier. Also, testing on a treadmill means the model has no aerodynamic drag.
Hi Sariel. lastly I’ve seen a pretty lego rc sport car on youtube
(this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_28468&feature=iv&src_vid=kuN3DdIfcZ0&v=XUuFSR0-l6w)
with a propulsion by only 2 rc motors, but it developes a speed of 15.4 km\h. Your Zonda is “only” 1.01 km\h faster, but it has 4 motors. Why?
@Cos
No, I will never create instruction for it. Yes, it would be very difficult for a beginner.
Hi Sariel, I’m really impressed about your job,it’s wonderful ! I’m a big fan of this car and your realisation falls me in love !
I’m a fan of Lego Technic too, and I wonder if you have already created an instruction or/and a list of the many pieces to build this car ?
I’m not a professional like you, do you think it could be difficult for a beginner ?
Wow that must have been fun to drive!
@PowerstrokinFL
Absolutely not.
Do you believe that you model is the fastest model on youtube?
@Anthony G.
LEGO RC units.
@Sariel
What are those two large black things in the center of the car?
Sure, my secret is that I did not use the IR receiver. LEGO RC units are used instead.
I really appreciate your imagination to design new solutions for your models.
I was wondering how you handled the weakness of the IR signal transmitter and receiver of lego. In the images it is covered and I do not understand, would you tell me your secret?
@JP HACK
The video shows you the result of top speed test, which is well over 9 MPH.
You need more space to run that thing….It seems from the video that it can hit 7 or 8 MPH.
P.S. I would really appreciate it if you give me some pointers about making a suitable steering system and sturdy chassis, because I can never seem to get it right. you’re my greatest inspiration, but i just cant get that effective compact solid working ability.
That’s so awesome, I wonder how you can make these things so compact yet good looking and great non-flaw performance
@Neil
All the best to your son, but please consider that it takes much more time to make an instruction that to build a model, and I don’t have that time. I make a lot of photos and explain how my models work – add your own creativity to it and you’ll be good. LEGO is about creativity, after all. It’s Ikea that is about building from instructions.
Next time you make a fast technic car, please consider making full instructions on how to make them.
I would love to make something like this for my son when he grows up, as the standard technic models are so limited :).
@Nick
Well Nick, weight distribution is where the weight is located in an object, so it can’t be “minimum”. What you mean is weight. And the weight is minimum because of the body – it doesn’t look heavy, does it? There are no battery chargers, just battery boxes inside the RC units, and there are two of them to deliver enough power to the motors. And yes, the car is fast because of the RC motors – they propel it, after all.
If you read the description of this model, you wouldn’t need to ask. That’s what it’s here for – to tell you everything about this model.
Wow man, really awesome car. How did you manage to keep the weight distribution to a minimum. I noticed to large RC packs inside the chassis. Is there a reason to have two battery chargers? The car seems fast in the video. Must be from the RC motors. Finally, do the RC motors drain power quickly from the batteries?
@tony stone
MLCad & LPub.
what software did you us to make the instruction?
@tony stone
At Bricklink, to name just one of tons of options.
where can i get some gray suspension?
@Sariel
alright, i see it now
@Marq
Dzięki. Na chwilę obecną nie planuję tego Audi, ale może kiedyś, kto wie. Nie wykorzystałem szybszych wyjść bo obawiałem się – raczej niesłusznie – że 2 kg to dla nich jednak za dużo. Przy hamowaniu silnikiem z takich prędkości dyferencjały mielą się niezależnie od wyjścia.
Witam. Piszę w pewnej sprawie. Na forum Lugpol 3dom zaproponował abyś zbudował hmm WRX STi. Parę postów dalej piszesz o budowie niebieskiej niespodzianki. Od razu skojarzyłem ze sobą te dwa posty i już miałem protestować ale… na szczęście spojrzałem na facebookową tablicę oraz dział future projects z twojej strony i wiem co zamierzasz. Jakby nie było chciałem jednak zaproponować Ci mało znane auto, z napędem na 4 koła a mianowicie (nie)sławną legendę lat 80 audi s1 quattro (proponuję wikipedię). Na youtube jest tylko jedno, mierne wykonanie technic (link na koniec). Mam nadzieję że to rozpatrzysz. Co do Zondy, generalnie świetny model ale to Twój standard i się przyzwyczaiłem :D. Intryguje mnie tylko jedno – czy szybsze wyjścia rc mielą dyferencjały i dlatego ich nie wykorzystałeś?
Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1g0s7zns6w&feature=fvst
@tony stone
It’s almost identical to the rear suspension, for which I made instruction.
i cant figure it out from the pictures you have
@Zozoleon I have E-Bay alerts for everything that might contain an RC motor. I am prepared.
@NeXT-Generation
Try searching eBay for set 8366 “Supersonic RC”
You can find one with good condition below 50$ (I paid for mine, with all parts and the original box 43$)
With the set, you receive 2 RC Buggy motors, the RC base, 2 short old-style cables, 4x big racing wheels, strong and easy 9-brick front suspention (good for making fast models) and a lot of other parts, such as old panels. You should definitely should try it out.
I’ve tried to build something like this for a while, but somehow I always gravitate back to offroad vehicles.
@Ed
You can test it by connecting two motors of the same type from the same power supply to a differential, then brace the motors together. If the differential rotates one way or the other, then it shows that one of the motors is faster than the other.
@Ed
It’s because, despite that they are the same motors, they actually run at slightly different speeds. Having an adder allows both motors to run at full speed, without one of them having to drive the other slightly because of the speed difference, as that would slow the car down slightly. The second differential is to transmit different speeds to the left and right wheels, such as in a turn.
Sorry to be a derp, but can someone explain to me why there are 2 differentials?
I know they are used for the adder/subtracter, but I can’t wrap my head around it.
😛
@Lee
Why do you think I can’t? I can and I will, but you have to let me try new things as well, not just build the same stuff over and over again. Also, I haven’t been always using “normal” parts – I started using them a while ago as an experiment too. Have patience – I build variously, no need to worry over just a single MOC.
Hey,
Sorry to say that, but nowadays I dont like your creations any more. You’ve been always an inspiration because you were using “normal” parts comined with pf elements. All the tings with nxt and the old motors are too expensive for me and you are using so many special parts(I mean newer, “compicated formed” pieces) that there is no inspiration anymore. With this car you’ve even “destroyed” your fashion, where you have a body for the car, now you’re using just the cables and such. Why can’t you come back and be the “old” one again??
@Sariel Sir, I certainly know it’s not a cheap hobby. I also know that $30 is a comparably good price. I just don’t like to pay that much for a single motor, knowing that they used to be much cheaper.
@NeXT-Generation
Actually, for a LEGO motor it’s fairly good price. Sorry, nobody said it’s a cheap hobby.
@Sariel Yeah, but still, that’s a lot for one motor.
@NeXT-Generation
Which is way less than 120€.
@Sariel But even there the cheapest one is $30….
@JJ
So, I guess you’re unaware of the Bricklink…
Hi, I wanted to buy these RC motors, but they are very expensive! Where did you buy them and how much did they cost? I looked on Amazon, Ebay and the official LEGO-shop but One (!) motor costs about 120€…
Thank you 😀
Hi,
Are you going to make a instruction for the axles only?
Br,
Emil
@gabry
Bricklink has a big Help section, which you can use.
@acidB
I’m sure there will be dozens of interesting submissions, and I’m not sure if this is my kind of thing.
maybe you could give it a shot ? :
http://www.cardesignnews.com/site/home/display/store4/item264191/
Ehi it’s WONDERFUL!!! Really cool, you’re a very intelligent builder. I really like the body design, but the chassis is the most interesting thing. You don’t see every day lego cars like this, pretty and VERY FAST! And it’s Italian, like me! XD But I wanted to ask you something other: at Bricklink, where can I see the price of the bricks? Thanks,
Gabry
@qwertyuiop
Yes, I have a lighter car in mind. I used the slower output of the motors, but there are many practical factors that math does not take into account. There could have been favorable wind for instance, or the batteries could be a bit overcharged.
@Sariel
Sorry about the wording of my question, I meant that if you were to make a car like this one, with a high-speed propulsion system, but would make it simply a chassis, so that weight is reduced to minimum. I can understand that a weight of 1kg or under would be practically impossible with two RC units, four RC motors and four of those large Technic Racing wheels, but there has to be a way to make something like this that is less that 2kg, so that it can go even faster.
Also, I did some maths and found that, at a 1:1 ratio with the slower outputs of the RC motors and those 81.6 mm wheels, the car should actually only be able to go about 14.2 km/h with a fresh 9V power supply. Did you use the faster output of the RC motors, or did I do something wrong?
Awesome Work as always Sariel..! You’re the man..!
@GuiliuG
Imagine this: you drive fast and you need to correct the direction you’re driving in just a little. Can you do this with return-to-center steering? Hell no, you can only turn maximum left or right for a moment. And trust me, such small corrections are needed very, very often. Just because your steering returns to center, doesn’t mean your model will stay perfectly in the middle of the track.
The weight per motor is not sufficient to see how efficient a car will be at pure speed because the more weight there is, the more friction also. But as I haven’t any Rc motor, I can really talk about their efficiency.
You also say that return-to-center steering is not well suited for fast vehicule. Strangly, I would have say the contrary because it’s hard to have the neutral position with normal steering. New servo-motor could do nicely the job ( where a classic solution with spring or elastic won’t work so sweet).
@GuiliuG
It all comes down to how much weight per a motor there is. And RC motors are simply well-suited for high speeds.
Nice car, very beautiful and epurated. I’m not sure though that putting 4Rc motor in a 2kg vehicule is the best solution for pure speed. I think that a lightweight vehicule (800g) powered by two L motors or a Xl one could do a better job. But maybe am I wrong?
I could just go on and on about how beautiful this is but I’m sure you get enough of that, and it looks like this comments page is fresh so there’s more of that still on the way. I am also working on a 4×4 with a focus on speed but I’m waiting for some parts to arrive (my first order ever from Bricklink) and I was wondering if you could give me any tips on building it. I’ve seen all of your stuff but I’m not sure if I can accomplish what you have with your parts. I’m using the large balloon tire wheels (like in the new rock crawler), the long springs (I’m getting the soft and the hard kind), 2 XLs to drive it, and it looks like (from this creation) that return-to-center steering doesn’t go very well. Is there any advice you can give to optimize its performance? (I’m not going for looks, just functionality for now)
@qwertyuiop
This isn’t really “chassis only”.
Great work! I love when you make high-speed vehicles. Do you think that, in the future, you may make a vehicle like this one that is chassis only, so that it could be very lightweight and hit even higher speeds?
@MindstormAddict
Yes.
Did you ever thought about making a 4X4 off road whit the RC motors?