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Pagani Zonda

September 2nd, 2012 Leave a comment Go to comments

Model of one of the world’s most exotic supercars. Features full suspension, high-speed propulsion system, and custom stickers. Update: instruction  for non-steered suspension module available in Downloads section.

Datasheet:

Completion date: 02/09/2012
Power: electric (RC unit)
Dimensions: length 61 studs / width 30 studs / height 18 studs (not including antennae)
Weight: 1.996 kg
Suspension: full independent
Propulsion: 4 x RC motor geared 1:1
Motors: 4 x RC motor, 1 x PF Medium
Top speed: 15.41 kmph

Pagani Zonda is sometimes said to be a phenomenon rather than a car. Among the reasons is the fact that it successfully combines high-tech chassis and body with a vintage-styled interior which feels like in early racing cars from 30’s, as well as the fact that each of very few Zondas is assembled almost entirely by hand (including even the engine). The result is an unique blend of superb performance and beauty of a handiwork. And since there is no assembly line, the manufacturer can easily modify and improve the car – in fact, the basic Zonda has seen no less than 13 various versions before the advent of Pagani Huayra, which is a new model partially based on the Zonda.

I decided to build a model when I found out that I own four LEGO RC buggy motors, well-suited for high-speed applications, and that I can afford a second RC unit to use all of them together (as one RC unit can power two RC motors at most). It was a natural decision to build a supercar model designed for speed, and the Zonda was the best choice because it’s body could accommodate for two RC units behind the cabin.

The model was supposed to look good and drive fast. To achieve the latter, both weight and complexity were cut to minimum. Since all the motors and RC units were quite heavy, I made up for it by creating an ultra-light body made only of edges with a handful of chosen details. This involved using flexible axles which are available mostly in red, and hence the entire body is red. To make the chassis easily seen “through” the body and thus make the body appear translucent, I used black pieces for it whenever possible.

The model’s propulsion system affected all wheels, even though the original Zonda is a RWD car. Driving all wheels allowed to better use the combined power of all motors, improved the weight distribution and simplified the transmission system. The drivetrain was also less stressed this way, and it still handled significant stress – the gears in the rear differential snapped on several occasions when I attempted braking with reverse.

The four RC motors were coupled in two pairs using adders, which drove differentials. One pair drove the front axle and another drove the rear axle – each powered and controlled by a separate RC unit. Thus the model had technically two separate propulsion systems – if the RC units were set to various channels, front and rear axles could be controlled independently.

The axles were nearly identical, with typical double wishbone suspension using two short hard shock absorbers per wheel. The front axle was steered by a PF Medium motor located in front of it, connected to the left RC unit and rotating the steering wheel too.  The model had a fairly good steering lock, and the combination of wide slick tires and differentials made it handle very well. Based on my earlier experiences with fast models, I fine-tuned the steering system for high precision, allowing very subtle corrections while driving straight, and I didn’t include return-to-center function which makes steering such a model harder rather than easier.

With fresh, good quality batteries the model had plenty of power and excellent acceleration. It suggested that its top speed of 15.41 km/h (at this scale equivalent to 132.5 km/h in the real car) is not the end of what can be achieved with four RC motors. Using different wheels, faster motors’ outputs and cutting weight lower can result in even higher speed. Using a gearbox can be a good idea too, although earlier experiences indicate that extra weight and extra complication to the transmission system generate loss of power that can annul all benefits of using a gearbox.

All in all, the model provided an interesting experience and was very pleasant to drive. It proved very realistic in how its performance was affected by factors such as weight distribution, propulsion system, type of tires and of suspension, and I liked the look of its somewhat experimental body.

Work in progress photos:

1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg 5.jpg 6.jpg 7.jpg

Photos:

1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg 5.jpg 6.jpg 7.jpg 8.jpg 9.jpg dsc02635.jpg dsc02638.jpg dsc02653.jpg dsc02666.jpg dsc02673.jpg dsc02686.jpg dsc02695.jpg dsc02701.jpg dsc02706.jpg dsc02711.jpg dsc02716.jpg dsc02726.jpg dsc02727.jpg dsc02728.jpg dsc02733.jpg dsc02734.jpg dsc02743.jpg maxspeed.jpg original.gif

Video:

YouTube Preview Image

Media reference:

8studs (Polish only), Autoblog.nl (Dutch only), Damn Geeky, Hobby Media (Italian only), Ridelust, The LEGO Car Blog

Categories: Supercars Tags: , ,
  1. Sariel
    October 6th, 2014 at 09:19 | #1
  2. EpicMOC
    October 5th, 2014 at 19:27 | #2

    I would like to see a vehicle (chassis only) designed for speed only. My record (with one EV3 Mindstorms kit) is around 16kmph top over 10m.

    The highest speed anything has gone is a calculated 53mph (a tiny part flung off a fan powered by 2 EV3 motors 1:27

  3. Trollspirit
    August 17th, 2014 at 09:31 | #3

    Given the fact that your Paganini is 48cm long, and runs at 15.41km/h,
    And given that the real Paganini is 434cm long;

    We can compute the equivalent real speed : (15,41 x 434 ) / 48 = 139,33kmph.

    Not bad !

  4. Sariel
    May 14th, 2014 at 14:28 | #4

    @paul
    Thanks.

  5. paul
    May 14th, 2014 at 14:17 | #5

    I know this is a fairly old model, but I have just been looking at it again – since I just went and got myself the RC elements. Just wanted to say that you did a great job on it – it looks great.

  6. Robert
    April 10th, 2014 at 16:10 | #6

    Przednie obudowy reflektorów otoczone są oponami lego 8mm x 9mm (sliki), wewnątrz jest okrągły klocek lego 1 na który przychodzi “klosz” z Clikits-a.

  7. Sariel
    April 8th, 2014 at 21:01 | #7

    @Szymon P
    Jakiejś małej, nie pamiętam.

  8. Szymon P
    April 8th, 2014 at 19:21 | #8

    a obudowa zewnętrzna świateł, z czego wykonana? z opony? jakiej?

  9. Sariel
    April 7th, 2014 at 22:38 | #9

    @Szymon P
    Tak, to są te światła.

  10. Szymon P
    April 7th, 2014 at 20:22 | #10

    moze z tych klockow byly wykonane swiatła? http://www.bricklink.com/store.asp?p=BRICK_CHICK&itemID=53752148
    , a obwoluta świateł – koła (guma), jakich?

  11. Sariel
    April 5th, 2014 at 21:37 | #11

    @Szymon P
    Nie pamiętam, poza tym że były prawie niemożliwe do dostania.

  12. Szymon P
    April 5th, 2014 at 15:36 | #12

    Jakich klocków użyłeś do budowy przednich świateł i kierunkowsazów?

  13. Sariel
    April 1st, 2014 at 19:02 | #13

    @GUILLAUME
    On my brain.

  14. GUILLAUME
    April 1st, 2014 at 17:49 | #14

    Hello
    nice work your car. On what software you work to make your models?
    thank you

  15. Sariel
  16. Witherley
    February 18th, 2014 at 09:33 | #16

    About the rear axle and how it uses the element at the end of the suspension arms that you used at the end of the Trophy Truck steering arms? The one that looks sort of like a portal axle in the sense of the 3 peg parts? With that light-grey piece attached to the end that allows the motor to transfer power to the wheels that way, would that inhibit the ability for it to steer? Or are the small light-grey wheel pieces the only thing stopping it from steering? I’d like to know because I might like to buy the pieces and make a sort of 4×4 off-road vehicle. Also would the 42021 Snowmobile suspension arms work in place of the suspension arms you used?

  17. Sariel
    January 15th, 2014 at 09:12 | #17

    @Bryan.K
    Perhaps a little.

  18. Bryan.K
    January 15th, 2014 at 04:34 | #18

    since there were four of rc motors couldnt you increase the gear ratio to make it faster? just wondering.. it seems like enough power to do so.. with original speed 2 rc motors would be enough .. idk i never had those motors.. just wondering

  19. Sariel
    January 5th, 2014 at 12:21 | #19

    @Florian Renner
    Not going to happen, sorry.

  20. Florian Renner
    January 5th, 2014 at 11:13 | #20

    can you make more instructions about the pagani zonda please. i am a really fan of you and the pagani and i would like to buy it but i need instructions:please

  21. Sariel
    January 4th, 2014 at 13:44 | #21
  22. Florian Renner
    January 4th, 2014 at 12:56 | #22

    Can i buy it?

  23. Sariel
    January 3rd, 2014 at 18:46 | #23

    @David
    Not really, I’m afraid. Probably my Zonda is the best tip I can offer.

  24. David
    January 3rd, 2014 at 17:16 | #24

    Sariel, do you have any tips for building a pagani huayra?

  25. gabry
    September 11th, 2013 at 14:28 | #25

    @Sariel
    Yes, but the difference of weight in that position would be important, seen the experiments I’ve done (with all the parts I destroyed!) ;) Anyway, you know, this model is amazing :)

  26. Sariel
    September 8th, 2013 at 20:02 | #26

    @gabry
    Did you consider that smaller tires have smaller circumference? Meaning that they would slow the model down?

  27. gabry
    September 8th, 2013 at 19:41 | #27

    why didn’t you try to put on it smaller tyres? They would probably look worse, but thy’re lighter, as you say in more recent posts… I think the Zonda could be even faster

  28. Sariel
  29. Robert
    June 5th, 2013 at 19:03 | #29

    81.6 x 36 R ?

  30. Sariel
    June 5th, 2013 at 00:18 | #30

    @Robert
    10 studów.

  31. Robert
    June 4th, 2013 at 23:33 | #31

    Jakiej wielkości kół użyłeś do tego modelu?

  32. Sariel
  33. AZK11
    March 16th, 2013 at 02:56 | #33

    Hi Sariel! Your model is amazing! Can you tell me what pics you used to make the rims black? They must have originaly been grey because the first picture you put up showed the model (not finished yet) with grey rims. Thank you!

  34. Sariel
    March 12th, 2013 at 22:42 | #34

    @Attika
    I have used part that is available since 2008: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?pg=1&q=extension+wire&catLike=W&v=2
    And I don’t remember steering ratio, sorry. Just pick the one you like, if it’s too fast gear it down, if it’s too slow gear it up.

  35. Attika
    March 12th, 2013 at 19:47 | #35

    Hi Sariel, may I ask you how did you pair the PF motor and the rc unit? As much as I know those have different connectors. I have no better idea then a modified part. (extension cables from both set should be cuted and biult together). Before I grab the knife to destroy pieces of my collection for a higher purpose I’d like to get confirmation.

    And what gear ratio did you use for the steering system. (black parts make it inpossible to reverse engineer it) :-)

    This is a nice piece of work again as usual.

    Many thanks and keep building

    Attika

  36. gabry
    March 9th, 2013 at 07:50 | #36

    @Sariel
    I’m very interested in the chassis. I already have shocks and suspension components, and obviously many other technic parts. I want the electric components!

  37. Sariel
    March 8th, 2013 at 21:42 | #37

    @gabry
    Most, probably. All, unlikely.

  38. gabry
    March 8th, 2013 at 18:11 | #38

    @Sariel
    Ok. With almost 200€ could I buy most parts of this model, in your opinion, at bricklink?

  39. Sariel
    March 7th, 2013 at 22:07 | #39

    @gabry
    Probably because it’s a lot heavier. Also, testing on a treadmill means the model has no aerodynamic drag.

  40. gabry
    March 7th, 2013 at 19:21 | #40

    Hi Sariel. lastly I’ve seen a pretty lego rc sport car on youtube
    (this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_28468&feature=iv&src_vid=kuN3DdIfcZ0&v=XUuFSR0-l6w)
    with a propulsion by only 2 rc motors, but it developes a speed of 15.4 km\h. Your Zonda is “only” 1.01 km\h faster, but it has 4 motors. Why?

  41. Sariel
    February 5th, 2013 at 20:42 | #41

    @Cos
    No, I will never create instruction for it. Yes, it would be very difficult for a beginner.

  42. Cos
    February 5th, 2013 at 19:23 | #42

    Hi Sariel, I’m really impressed about your job,it’s wonderful ! I’m a big fan of this car and your realisation falls me in love !
    I’m a fan of Lego Technic too, and I wonder if you have already created an instruction or/and a list of the many pieces to build this car ?
    I’m not a professional like you, do you think it could be difficult for a beginner ?

  43. Zaxash
    January 31st, 2013 at 20:39 | #43

    Wow that must have been fun to drive!

  44. Sariel
    January 14th, 2013 at 10:11 | #44

    @PowerstrokinFL
    Absolutely not.

  45. PowerstrokinFL
    January 14th, 2013 at 06:27 | #45

    Do you believe that you model is the fastest model on youtube?

  46. Sariel
    January 1st, 2013 at 10:35 | #46

    @Anthony G.
    LEGO RC units.

  47. Anthony G.
    December 31st, 2012 at 20:08 | #47

    @Sariel
    What are those two large black things in the center of the car?

  48. Sariel
    December 17th, 2012 at 20:59 | #48

    Sure, my secret is that I did not use the IR receiver. LEGO RC units are used instead.

  49. Romeo
    December 17th, 2012 at 20:47 | #49

    I really appreciate your imagination to design new solutions for your models.
    I was wondering how you handled the weakness of the IR signal transmitter and receiver of lego. In the images it is covered and I do not understand, would you tell me your secret?

  50. Sariel
    December 7th, 2012 at 21:03 | #50

    @JP HACK
    The video shows you the result of top speed test, which is well over 9 MPH.

  51. JP HACK
    December 7th, 2012 at 20:46 | #51

    You need more space to run that thing….It seems from the video that it can hit 7 or 8 MPH.

  52. Aijaz
    October 10th, 2012 at 04:56 | #52

    P.S. I would really appreciate it if you give me some pointers about making a suitable steering system and sturdy chassis, because I can never seem to get it right. you’re my greatest inspiration, but i just cant get that effective compact solid working ability.

  53. Aijaz
    October 10th, 2012 at 04:49 | #53

    That’s so awesome, I wonder how you can make these things so compact yet good looking and great non-flaw performance

  54. Sariel
    September 19th, 2012 at 20:25 | #54

    @Neil
    All the best to your son, but please consider that it takes much more time to make an instruction that to build a model, and I don’t have that time. I make a lot of photos and explain how my models work – add your own creativity to it and you’ll be good. LEGO is about creativity, after all. It’s Ikea that is about building from instructions.

  55. Neil
    September 19th, 2012 at 20:17 | #55

    Next time you make a fast technic car, please consider making full instructions on how to make them.

    I would love to make something like this for my son when he grows up, as the standard technic models are so limited :).

  56. Sariel
    September 18th, 2012 at 00:56 | #56

    @Nick
    Well Nick, weight distribution is where the weight is located in an object, so it can’t be “minimum”. What you mean is weight. And the weight is minimum because of the body – it doesn’t look heavy, does it? There are no battery chargers, just battery boxes inside the RC units, and there are two of them to deliver enough power to the motors. And yes, the car is fast because of the RC motors – they propel it, after all.
    If you read the description of this model, you wouldn’t need to ask. That’s what it’s here for – to tell you everything about this model.

  57. September 18th, 2012 at 00:18 | #57

    Wow man, really awesome car. How did you manage to keep the weight distribution to a minimum. I noticed to large RC packs inside the chassis. Is there a reason to have two battery chargers? The car seems fast in the video. Must be from the RC motors. Finally, do the RC motors drain power quickly from the batteries?

  58. Sariel
    September 14th, 2012 at 17:57 | #58

    @tony stone
    MLCad & LPub.

  59. tony stone
    September 14th, 2012 at 15:19 | #59

    what software did you us to make the instruction?

  60. Sariel
    September 12th, 2012 at 23:27 | #60

    @tony stone
    At Bricklink, to name just one of tons of options.

  61. tony stone
    September 12th, 2012 at 23:21 | #61

    where can i get some gray suspension?

  62. tony stone
    September 12th, 2012 at 23:17 | #62

    @Sariel
    alright, i see it now

  63. Sariel
    September 12th, 2012 at 21:35 | #63

    @Marq
    Dzięki. Na chwilę obecną nie planuję tego Audi, ale może kiedyś, kto wie. Nie wykorzystałem szybszych wyjść bo obawiałem się – raczej niesłusznie – że 2 kg to dla nich jednak za dużo. Przy hamowaniu silnikiem z takich prędkości dyferencjały mielą się niezależnie od wyjścia.

  64. Marq
    September 12th, 2012 at 20:59 | #64

    Witam. Piszę w pewnej sprawie. Na forum Lugpol 3dom zaproponował abyś zbudował hmm WRX STi. Parę postów dalej piszesz o budowie niebieskiej niespodzianki. Od razu skojarzyłem ze sobą te dwa posty i już miałem protestować ale… na szczęście spojrzałem na facebookową tablicę oraz dział future projects z twojej strony i wiem co zamierzasz. Jakby nie było chciałem jednak zaproponować Ci mało znane auto, z napędem na 4 koła a mianowicie (nie)sławną legendę lat 80 audi s1 quattro (proponuję wikipedię). Na youtube jest tylko jedno, mierne wykonanie technic (link na koniec). Mam nadzieję że to rozpatrzysz. Co do Zondy, generalnie świetny model ale to Twój standard i się przyzwyczaiłem :D. Intryguje mnie tylko jedno – czy szybsze wyjścia rc mielą dyferencjały i dlatego ich nie wykorzystałeś?
    Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1g0s7zns6w&feature=fvst

  65. Sariel
    September 12th, 2012 at 08:22 | #65

    @tony stone
    It’s almost identical to the rear suspension, for which I made instruction.

  66. tony stone
    September 12th, 2012 at 01:37 | #66

    tony stone :can you post mor pics of the front suspension?

    i cant figure it out from the pictures you have

  67. NeXT-Generation
    September 11th, 2012 at 18:04 | #67

    @Zozoleon I have E-Bay alerts for everything that might contain an RC motor. I am prepared.

  68. Zozoleon
    September 11th, 2012 at 14:41 | #68

    @NeXT-Generation
    Try searching eBay for set 8366 “Supersonic RC”
    You can find one with good condition below 50$ (I paid for mine, with all parts and the original box 43$)
    With the set, you receive 2 RC Buggy motors, the RC base, 2 short old-style cables, 4x big racing wheels, strong and easy 9-brick front suspention (good for making fast models) and a lot of other parts, such as old panels. You should definitely should try it out.

  69. September 11th, 2012 at 13:57 | #69

    I’ve tried to build something like this for a while, but somehow I always gravitate back to offroad vehicles.

  70. Qwertyuiop
    September 9th, 2012 at 07:50 | #70

    @Ed
    You can test it by connecting two motors of the same type from the same power supply to a differential, then brace the motors together. If the differential rotates one way or the other, then it shows that one of the motors is faster than the other.

  71. qwertyuiop
    September 9th, 2012 at 07:35 | #71

    @Ed
    It’s because, despite that they are the same motors, they actually run at slightly different speeds. Having an adder allows both motors to run at full speed, without one of them having to drive the other slightly because of the speed difference, as that would slow the car down slightly. The second differential is to transmit different speeds to the left and right wheels, such as in a turn.

  72. Ed
    September 9th, 2012 at 01:25 | #72

    Sorry to be a derp, but can someone explain to me why there are 2 differentials?
    I know they are used for the adder/subtracter, but I can’t wrap my head around it.
    :P

  73. Sariel
    September 8th, 2012 at 20:40 | #73

    @Lee
    Why do you think I can’t? I can and I will, but you have to let me try new things as well, not just build the same stuff over and over again. Also, I haven’t been always using “normal” parts – I started using them a while ago as an experiment too. Have patience – I build variously, no need to worry over just a single MOC.

  74. Lee
    September 8th, 2012 at 20:27 | #74

    Hey,
    Sorry to say that, but nowadays I dont like your creations any more. You’ve been always an inspiration because you were using “normal” parts comined with pf elements. All the tings with nxt and the old motors are too expensive for me and you are using so many special parts(I mean newer, “compicated formed” pieces) that there is no inspiration anymore. With this car you’ve even “destroyed” your fashion, where you have a body for the car, now you’re using just the cables and such. Why can’t you come back and be the “old” one again??

  75. NeXT-Generation
    September 6th, 2012 at 04:04 | #75

    @Sariel Sir, I certainly know it’s not a cheap hobby. I also know that $30 is a comparably good price. I just don’t like to pay that much for a single motor, knowing that they used to be much cheaper.

  76. Sariel
    September 5th, 2012 at 20:08 | #76

    @NeXT-Generation
    Actually, for a LEGO motor it’s fairly good price. Sorry, nobody said it’s a cheap hobby.

  77. NeXT-Generation
    September 5th, 2012 at 19:23 | #77

    @Sariel Yeah, but still, that’s a lot for one motor.

  78. Sariel
    September 5th, 2012 at 18:10 | #78

    @NeXT-Generation
    Which is way less than 120€.

  79. NeXT-Generation
    September 5th, 2012 at 16:44 | #79

    @Sariel But even there the cheapest one is $30….

  80. Sariel
    September 5th, 2012 at 14:53 | #80

    @JJ
    So, I guess you’re unaware of the Bricklink…

  81. JJ
    September 5th, 2012 at 11:01 | #81

    Hi, I wanted to buy these RC motors, but they are very expensive! Where did you buy them and how much did they cost? I looked on Amazon, Ebay and the official LEGO-shop but One (!) motor costs about 120€…

  82. gabry
    September 4th, 2012 at 22:23 | #82

    Thank you :D

  83. Emil
    September 4th, 2012 at 22:08 | #83

    Hi,

    Are you going to make a instruction for the axles only?

    Br,
    Emil

  84. Sariel
    September 4th, 2012 at 19:17 | #84

    @gabry
    Bricklink has a big Help section, which you can use.

    @acidB
    I’m sure there will be dozens of interesting submissions, and I’m not sure if this is my kind of thing.

  85. September 4th, 2012 at 13:37 | #85
  86. gabry
    September 4th, 2012 at 13:18 | #86

    Ehi it’s WONDERFUL!!! Really cool, you’re a very intelligent builder. I really like the body design, but the chassis is the most interesting thing. You don’t see every day lego cars like this, pretty and VERY FAST! And it’s Italian, like me! XD But I wanted to ask you something other: at Bricklink, where can I see the price of the bricks? Thanks,
    Gabry

  87. Sariel
    September 4th, 2012 at 10:28 | #87

    @qwertyuiop
    Yes, I have a lighter car in mind. I used the slower output of the motors, but there are many practical factors that math does not take into account. There could have been favorable wind for instance, or the batteries could be a bit overcharged.

  88. qwertyuiop
    September 4th, 2012 at 09:42 | #88

    @Sariel
    Sorry about the wording of my question, I meant that if you were to make a car like this one, with a high-speed propulsion system, but would make it simply a chassis, so that weight is reduced to minimum. I can understand that a weight of 1kg or under would be practically impossible with two RC units, four RC motors and four of those large Technic Racing wheels, but there has to be a way to make something like this that is less that 2kg, so that it can go even faster.
    Also, I did some maths and found that, at a 1:1 ratio with the slower outputs of the RC motors and those 81.6 mm wheels, the car should actually only be able to go about 14.2 km/h with a fresh 9V power supply. Did you use the faster output of the RC motors, or did I do something wrong?

  89. September 4th, 2012 at 03:55 | #89

    Awesome Work as always Sariel..! You’re the man..!

  90. Sariel
    September 3rd, 2012 at 16:02 | #90

    @GuiliuG
    Imagine this: you drive fast and you need to correct the direction you’re driving in just a little. Can you do this with return-to-center steering? Hell no, you can only turn maximum left or right for a moment. And trust me, such small corrections are needed very, very often. Just because your steering returns to center, doesn’t mean your model will stay perfectly in the middle of the track.

  91. GuiliuG
    September 3rd, 2012 at 15:40 | #91

    The weight per motor is not sufficient to see how efficient a car will be at pure speed because the more weight there is, the more friction also. But as I haven’t any Rc motor, I can really talk about their efficiency.

    You also say that return-to-center steering is not well suited for fast vehicule. Strangly, I would have say the contrary because it’s hard to have the neutral position with normal steering. New servo-motor could do nicely the job ( where a classic solution with spring or elastic won’t work so sweet).

  92. Sariel
    September 3rd, 2012 at 14:30 | #92

    @GuiliuG
    It all comes down to how much weight per a motor there is. And RC motors are simply well-suited for high speeds.

  93. GuiliuG
    September 3rd, 2012 at 12:26 | #93

    Nice car, very beautiful and epurated. I’m not sure though that putting 4Rc motor in a 2kg vehicule is the best solution for pure speed. I think that a lightweight vehicule (800g) powered by two L motors or a Xl one could do a better job. But maybe am I wrong?

  94. September 3rd, 2012 at 08:31 | #94

    I could just go on and on about how beautiful this is but I’m sure you get enough of that, and it looks like this comments page is fresh so there’s more of that still on the way. I am also working on a 4×4 with a focus on speed but I’m waiting for some parts to arrive (my first order ever from Bricklink) and I was wondering if you could give me any tips on building it. I’ve seen all of your stuff but I’m not sure if I can accomplish what you have with your parts. I’m using the large balloon tire wheels (like in the new rock crawler), the long springs (I’m getting the soft and the hard kind), 2 XLs to drive it, and it looks like (from this creation) that return-to-center steering doesn’t go very well. Is there any advice you can give to optimize its performance? (I’m not going for looks, just functionality for now)

  95. Sariel
    September 3rd, 2012 at 08:12 | #95

    @qwertyuiop
    This isn’t really “chassis only”.

  96. qwertyuiop
    September 3rd, 2012 at 08:00 | #96

    Great work! I love when you make high-speed vehicles. Do you think that, in the future, you may make a vehicle like this one that is chassis only, so that it could be very lightweight and hit even higher speeds?

  97. Sariel
    September 2nd, 2012 at 23:42 | #97
  98. MindstormAddict
    September 2nd, 2012 at 23:24 | #98

    Did you ever thought about making a 4X4 off road whit the RC motors?

  1. December 12th, 2012 at 14:45 | #1