T-72M
Model of a Cold-War era Soviet main battle tank. Features suspension, rotated turret, elevated main cannon and lights.
Datasheet:
Completion date: 10/09/2011
Power: electric (Power Functions)
Dimensions: length 39 studs (52 studs including main cannon’s barrel) / width 19 studs / height 16 studs (not including antenna)
Weight: 1.057 kg
Suspension: torsion bars
Propulsion: 2 x PF Medium geared 1:1
Motors: 3 x PF Medium, 1 x micromotor
Top speed: 1.14 kmph
T-72 is one of the most popular tanks in the modern world. It has been produced for 40 years now, and the production still continues with over 25,000 total tanks built. It was designed with cheap mass production and maintenance in mind. It offers interesting blend of simplicity and good characteristics, and it generally follows the Soviet doctrine of focusing on quantity rather than quality of tanks. While the T-72s can be easily gathered in large numbers, they usually lose 1:1 encounters with Western tanks.
I have chosen this particular tank because it’s a great example of Cold-War era Soviet tank design, with flattened hull and small, bowl-shaped turret. The US intelligence nicknamed the turret “Dolly Parton” because its shape supposedly reminded her breasts (you are strongly advised NOT TO search for photos of Dolly Parton, for the sake of your good taste). I had two goals while building it: to test the torsion bars suspension in a lightweight model, and to see how small fully motorized tank model can I build.
As for the aesthetic side, there was a number of minor shortcomings. I wanted to properly model the distinctive shape of the turret, because Lego models of the T-72 usually have turret shaped like a slightly gnawed disc. I think I achieved that, at the cost of attaching some details to the bottom of the turret, thus increasing the gap between the turret and the hull’s upper surface. The turret also had very little space inside – so little, in fact, that the majority of the main cannon elevation system had to fit in a 2 studs wide gap.
Other than that, the central section of the main cannon’s barrel should have been slightly thicker, but the only idea that occurred to me was to wrap it in a paper of similar colour and let it pass for a sticker. I also had the impression that the hull is slightly too tall, even though I was sure it had the right proportions. I could have remedied it easily by decreasing the suspension’s angle and thus the ground clearance, lowering the entire tank, but the large ground clearance is distinctive for the T-72. Perhaps the reason was that the side skirts started a little higher than they do in the real tank.

The T-72 is unusual in how its details are distributed: there is a lot of details on top of the hull’s rear, but almost nothing on the side skirts and above the tracks. I have added some extra details to simulate the kind of “luggage” that some tanks carry on them – in some cases it seems that the tank’s crew grabs virtually anything that comes around and attaches it to the armour. I have also used Lego LEDs to emphasize the large number of searchlights on the turret, which is very distinctive for the T-72, and I used some Lego plants to simulate the so-called environmental camouflage, just to see the result.
The model was very simple technically. There were two PF Medium motors in the back, connected straight to the rear tension wheels. Together they provided reasonable speed and a surprisingly high torque. The were also two IR receivers in the back, and another PF Medium motor between them, used to rotate the turret. Because of how small the turret was, its entire rotation system along with the turntable was located in the hull. The central part of the hull was taken by the turntable, and the front was taken by the 8878 battery lying transversely on its side. The battery could be accessed by removing the entire glacis plate. The remaining space, which was sparse, was taken by wires and the suspension system.
This was my second tank to use torsion bars suspension – the previous one was almost 3.5 kg heavy, with nearly 0.25 kg load per road wheel, and its suspension worked perfectly. Here the suspension was very similar, except that the axles used as the torsion bars were kept at fixed angle by the toothed half-bushes and toothed connector joints. It saved some space, but it wasn’t working really well because there were gaps at the half-bushes, which I had to fill with tiny scraps of paper. The average load was less than 90 grams per road wheel, and the entire suspension was therefore very hard – it was actually difficult to notice that it works.
I was happy with how the model turned out, even though its aesthetic side had a few compromises to it. It was a good, very agile model to play with, but I think it proved too light for this kind of suspension.
Work in progress photos:
Photos:
Video:


Hey! Awesome machine ! You are an awesome builder Sariel,I love both military stuff and legos as well but you must have been mistaken abaout that particular T-72..
The T-72M is an export version of the T-72A (the real Dolly-Parton) and no,the T-72A wouldn’t be killed by any western tank in a 1:1 fight(theoretically of course) ,but either ways I love your builds so thumbs up!
@Sariel
Ok, thanks a lot.
@Ali
The wheels are definitely too close to each other. If the tracks keep falling off, try replacing wheels with 24t gears, they come in black too.
Hi again Sariel,
What do you think about this kind of suspension? http://postimage.org/image/489ebz11d/
The problem is I can’t steer the tank on carpet so well, someitmes the tracks fall off, is it the design faulty or the tracks are not robust enough?
Also if the tank needs to override larger obstacles, the first wheel hits the 2nd wheel from front and the wheel falls down, cause the tracks don’t follow their course anymore… If I try to make the tank larger and make a 1 stud space between them may it help? I can move the front gear as weel, but I don’t think that would change anything, what do you think about it? Your answer will save me precious time, thank you!
@Sariel
Ok, thanks for the info.
@Ali
Torsion bars can twist and untwist, so they work in both directions, but to a limited degree. And they have to be twisted before they can untwist. As for the battery box – sorry, it’s impossible to tell.
Hello again Sariel, does the torsion bar suspension work in each way ( forward and backwords)? Also if I would install a small battery box in a similar sized tank as yours with 3x medium motors, lights and 1 micro motor, aprox how much time would it last? Less than 30 min?
Hi Sariel,I have managed to find a brick built alternative for the turret and my tank will be on youtube soon
@Robert
Thank you Robert!
@Sariel
thanks
@Robert
ps you need 2 of the gears
@Ali
you would need a barious range of peices including:
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4716 and
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=2856c03 or any similar pieces
so then you biuld a frame around this, attach the moter to the worm screw, which then in turn powers the turntable
@Ali
you would need for the drive:
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=6589
so you can transfer the drive round the corner and then you need
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=32324 to hold the gears in place
@Robert
Thank you Robert, but I already have those two pieces, what else would I need?
@Ali
you would need a barious range of peices including:
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4716 and
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=2856c03 or any similar pieces
so then you biuld a frame around this, attach the moter to the worm screw, which then in turn powers the turntable
@Sariel
Of course I did, but I don’t know how you built the mechanism.
@Ali
Why don’t you look at the Work In Progress photos of my tanks? There’s a turntable shown right on this page.
Hi Sariel, I am making my own tank, already bought tracks, I don’t know how to drive the power from the motor for the turntable and what pieces to use, could you kindly help me? I am a bit confused about this one, thank you!
@Robert
I think it can be hard to find a good-looking alternative for them.
Ihave just started making my own T-72 but I do not have any of the peices for the turret that you have so what do you suggest, buy them or find a brick built alternative
@Antony
It’s called chain link.
Hey sariel i love your creations. im making an LAV but i only got 2 motors so im making the rest of the weels powered by chain from the motor( idk if is clear
) but i cant find the chain you also used in the drone in your APC. its like these ones caterpilars but without the length added. How is it called in bricklink?
@Sariel
Thank you :3 I really needed that xD
@Cody
At Bricklink.
I was wondering, Could you please tell me where you get the pieces for the rotation of your tank turrets? Im making tanks myself, Not based of real ones, But itd really help. Thanks.
@dragonifos
On jest o wiele za miękki i za mało elastyczny.