Scania Racing Truck
Model of a Scania R500 truck modified as a racing version. Features full suspension, powerful propulsion system with two independently powered RC motors, lights, custom stickers, cabin with full interior and opened doors.
Datasheet:
Completion date: 05/07/2010
Power: electric (Power Functions)
Dimensions: length 48 studs / width 18 studs (not including the side mirrors) / height 27 studs
Weight: 1.86 kg
Suspension: front – independent / rear – dragged axle
Propulsion: 2 x RC buggy motors powered from separate batteries through separate IR receivers, geared down 1.66:1
Top speed: 7.92 kmph
Motors: 2 x RC, 1 x PF Medium
I’m really fond of modern Scania trucks. I have built a model of a Scania dumper truck in 2009, which – while being technically simple – has gathered a significant acclaim because of the quality of its aesthetics and because of the number of details incorporated. I was not fully happy with it, however, because I found the cabin’s look inaccurate and simplified. This was the primary reason why I started to toy with an idea of building a much more accurate Scania model in a racing truck version. Right from the very beginning I wanted it to be red with some chrome and metallic silver elements, which is why I was not convinced of realizing this model, as it had to be expensive to build. Over the time, however, I have gathered a number of chrome and metallic silver elements, and I have determined that it would take less red parts that I initially thought, as Scanias usually have their lower part of the cabin plain black.
Building this model became eventually achievable when I designed the complete exterior of its cabin using the MLCad software and when I bought four metallic silver wheels (to go along with the two I already had). With MLCad model serving as a very accurate shipping list, it became only a matter of time before the red racing Scania would be built.

I have built a number of racing trucks before, which provided a significant building experience. Based on it, I didn’t want to focus just on the aesthetic side of the model – I wanted it to perform well too. The key to surpass the performance of any of my earlier racing truck was the use of RC buggy motors for propulsion, as they offer somewhat more mechanical power than PF XL motors do, and they are also more suitable for fast vehicles, with less gearing or no gearing whatsoever needed. To use two RC motors at the same time while keeping the model’s weight reasonable I had to use the 8878 battery as a power supply. Since it was downright impossible to power two RC motors to a single battery because of their extremely high power consumption, I had to no other choice but to get a second 8878 battery. Thus, the model needed some serious investments before I even started to build it.
The model’s chassis was initially built with both RC motors using no gearing whatsoever – both motors were simply connected directly to the rear axle. Thanks to their convenient shape, it was possible to use them as the main bearing structure for the whole rear suspension which dramatically increased the internal space available inside the chassis. Thanks to it, chassis housed not only two 8878 batteries and two IR receivers, but also PF Medium motor for the steering, with all these elements located between the front and rear axle. The use of two IR receivers was necessary – since the drive motors were independently powered, they couldn’t be connected electrically and the only connection between them was rigid rear axle. With the initial rear axle set-up it was possible to use a differential between the motors but I dropped this idea for two reasons: firstly, a rigid axle was more efficient (no elements prone to slipping) and much less prone to a mechanical failure, and secondly the rear wheels had only limited traction while turning, since majority of the model’s weight was located above the front axle.
The independent front suspension was based strictly on my previous experiences with the models of racing trucks and used a blend of suspension components from the Lego sets 8448 and 8297. To handle the weight of the cabin, the front suspension was made very stiff, with two hardest shock absorbers set almost vertically above each front wheel. I have also used thin wedge belt wheels between the actual wheels and the chassis to prevent the expensive metallic silver wheels from rubbing away against the chassis – as it already occurred earlier, with slower and lighter racing truck models. The steering system had to be adjusted to the speed and the weight of the model, which is why it used a relatively insignificant gear reduction and no safety clutch whatsoever.
As for the aesthetic side, I came to think that the main disadvantage of my Scania dumper model was the fact that its distinctive front grill was completely flat, with air intakes simply marked with bricks of a different colour. Therefore I have put a lot of effort into inventing a system of recessed air intakes, which was eventually achieved with the use of 2×2 tiles. With plenty of internal space available in the cabin, this system could be used with a relative ease, providing an excellent aesthetic effect, as anticipated. Other than that, the cabin houses not only its own interior, but also a PF switch which controls all the lights (the lights are coupled with the drive motors and go brighter as the truck speeds up, so the switch is used primarily to turn this feature off when not needed, and thus to save energy which is so highly demanded by the RC motors). With 10 PF LEDs installed in the cabin, the switch takes a lot of space to contain 10 PF plugs with their respective wires. I was able to fit it in efficiently by mounting it on its side, so that the plugs are kept horizontally below where passenger’s seat would be located normally.

An important thing to know is that the real racing trucks are usually subjected to very radical visual modifications which make them look pretty much unlike any stock vehicle. Being a huge fan of the original Scania design, I wanted to avoid this. Therefore my approach was to use a stock Scania R500 as the model’s point of reference, with a few typically racing elements added so as to minimize their impact on the model’s look. Eventually, it ended up with five such elements: the four extra headlights (which are not really used for racing, but I viewed it as an opportunity to experiment with the PF LEDs a bit), the racing air intake on top of the roof, the engine moved back from under the cabin, the large spoiler instead of a fifth wheel, and a custom rear bumper. Additionally, the cabin’s interior has been arranged in a ‘racing’ fashion, with a mock-up of two blue N2O bottles replacing the passenger’s seat and with a distinctive safety net in the driver’s window. The net itself is not a Lego element – I made it as a sticker, by printing a black square with a dark grey grid on it, carefully cutting it to net-like shape with a modelling scalpel, and then painting its other side black with a felt-tip pen (I could also print the black square on both sides of the same sheet, but since large portion of it was meant to be cut out, it felt like a waste of ink). Eventually, the paper net was fixed to the door with a thin stripes of a Scotch tape on its edges.
The other, more traditional stickers, have also been intended to reflect the racing ‘nature’ of the model, with the most obvious example being a note in front of the driver’s window that says “Tävlingsfordon”, which is Swedish for “Racing vehicle” (all stickers use Swedish as a nod to Scania’s country of origin). The sticker above the windshield says “Sagodjur”, which can be translated as “Griffon” (the animal used as Scania’s brand mark) and which was intended to look like driver’s nickname, while both front and rear registration plates feature a miniature Scania’s griffon head and a number 5AR13L, which is an obvious reference to my own nickname.
As the model was getting close to its final weight, the propulsion system started to show signs of weakness. To solve this, I have moved the rear axle back a little while keeping the motors intact, and added a 1.66:1 gear reduction between the motors and the axle, with gear wheels doubled to handle the significant torque. It has greatly improved the overall performance of the model by making it faster and decreasing its accelerating and braking times, but it also made the chassis seem a bit longish and it made the rear suspension very soft. The manoeuvrability of the model, on the other hand, was not noticeably affected by this change. I have ran a number of tests with Lego speedometer mounted on the truck and the top speed it recorded was 7.92 kmph. This is more than any of my earlier racing trucks could achieve, but I feel like it could be surpassed by this very model. The model clearly has plenty of power in the drivetrain and appears to best build up its speed in long runs. It led me to believe that it could break 8 kmph given a long section of a perfectly smooth floor (unlike the floor I had to run tests on). Anyway, 7.92 kmph is a fairly good result, as it requires model’s wheels to rotate at over 600 RPM (that is 10 rotations per second) and – given the model’s 1:17 scale – corresponds with the speed of 135 mph in the real life.
The truck was highly acclaimed for its aesthetics and performance, both emphasized by the video which took me 4 hours straight to produce. It was my second construction to use a slow motion footage (shot with Casio Exilim FS-10), and my first construction to be accompanied by 1200×800 px photos rather than usual 800×600 px, as I really liked the look of the model and the results of its photo-session.
The model will be kept intact at least until a public event that takes place on July 10th, giving my fellow LUGPol members the chance to see, and perhaps even to drive it.
Photos:
Work in progress photos:
Video:
Media reference:
Legocn.net (Chinese only), Mancave (Dutch only), Town Truck Brick! (Spanish only)

Your truck looks amazing is amazing drive amazing steers amazing and you are a genius!!!!!!!!!
@Mecho123451
These wheels have diameter of 8 studs, Unimog wheels have diameter of 12 studs if this is what you ask.
Can you give me a picture of these wheels next to the new ‘mog tires
@Touhou
Look for a Power Functions extension wire.
How did you connect the battery to the RC motors?
@Mahonii
Nie jestem w stanie doradzić Ci przełożenia, bo to zależy od wagi Twojego modelu. Co do pomysłów na wykorzystanie reszty silników – jesteś na stronie gdzie znajduje się ok 90 MOCy, myślę że znajdziesz wśród nich jakąś inspirację.
Witam
Bardzo spodobało mi się twoje dzieło (choć osobiście uważam że ciężarówki są zbyt… Ociężałe).
Jak widzę, użyłeś dwóch silników typu buggy, stąd moje pytanie: jakie przełożenie powinienem zrobić aby, używając dwóch identycznych silników buggy i kół z zestawu off roader, mój pojazd był szybki ale nie zacinał się przy przeszkodzie, np. dywanie?
I jeszcze jedno, czy mógłbyś doradzić mi jak wykorzystać pozostałe 8 silników (2x XL, 6x M)?
Mam dużo elementów, z zestawów 8275, 8043, 8297, 8285 i wiele innych pojedynczych elementów.
Z góry dziękuję za odpowiedź
Mahonii
@Ruben
You can buy everything at Bricklink, and links to the wires that connect RC motors to IR receivers are directly below your comment.
how do you put the rc buggy motors on the receiver? where you can buy it? where i can buy the rc buggy motors? and do the motor whit 7.2 volt.
@Zozol
Przejściówkami dostępnymi na rynku od jakichś dwóch, jeśli nie trzech lat:
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?S=8886-1
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?S=8871-1
Super projekt. Jak połączyłeś silnik ze starym łączem do nowego pojemnika na baterie?
@Dirk Klijn
Search YouTube for “Sony eye candy”.
@Sariel
Can you give me a link? I’d like to use the music for a movie for school.
@Dirk Klijn
It’s not mine.
What music did you use for the video, and if its yours may I use it?
@Noud Goertz (from Holland)
1.66:1. It’s written in the description above, actually.
what is the gear- combination?
@kyle
Yes, they are there for extra torque.
hey in the WIPs on facebook and some of the ones of above, the rear axel is straight but on the finished model there four (ass far as i can see) bevel gears, are there just for extra torqe?
@Espen Danielsen
13 studs.
@Sariel
Thanks!! That helps a lot! (And they are quite cheep)
Du you know the size of this set as weel, http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=22969c02? They seem to be close to 12 or 13 studs, and quite wide. But I can’t find any comparison between them…
-ED-
@Espen Danielsen
Yes: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=44772c02
These have 12 studs in diameter.
Hello
I was wondering if you might help me a little. I’m designing a viechle, and to be able to integrate all 12 functions I want, I have to make it to a scale I don’t have large enough wheels/tires for… Do you know of any wheels/tires larger than 41896/45982? Preferably a rough tire.
Hope you can help me out.
-ED-
@Ulisses Hornung
There has been adapter for it available for years now.
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?pg=1&q=extension+wire&catLike=W&v=2