FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions:
Below is a list of the most common questions people ask me. Please read these before you ask me something – the answer may be already there, and it will save your time – not to mention mine.
Where do you buy all these things, and how do I get them?
I don’t buy these things, I create them myself. These are not official LEGO sets, just custom designs not available for sale.
Can I buy any of these from you?
Not really. There are basically two reasons for this: firstly, I only build every construction once and then take it apart, without creating any form of instruction. Hence, if I were to re-build a specific construction for you, I would have to rely mainly on my memory. Secondly, and more importantly, all my constructions are very ‘technic’ in nature – they contain a number of moving parts and mechanism that may get damaged and malfunction. If you want to buy them, you probably want to put their functions into some use, and it means I can’t guarantee they will work properly in every condition, not to mention the problems with shipping. They can’t be glued solid or reinforced – it’s just the way the bricks work; they can be put together, but they can be put apart as well. And I have no time for some emergency service or handling dissatisfied customers, sorry.
If the above does not discourage you, there is obviously always a space for negotiations. Be aware, however, that the specialized parts I’m often using and plenty of labour needed must reflect on the final price.
Do you make instructions?
Usually I don’t, and there is a number of reasons for it. Creating instructions takes usually much more time than the actual building did, and hence it would reduce the number of my constructions at least by half. I tend to use plenty of specialized parts that are rare and expensive – so even with the instruction in hand, you would most likely have to do a lot of shopping, and then perhaps feel unhappy about the way you spent your money. Finally, I deeply believe that creativity is what LEGO is about. So I’m taking many photos and I’m explaining how the mechanisms are built and on what principles they work. This plus your creativity should be enough. If you want complete, step-by-step instructions – go buy some LEGO sets.
What software are you using to create 3D drawings and schemes?
I’m using MLCad for modelling and LDView for rendering.
Can you send me more photos of something?
No. The construction you’re interested in is most probably already taken apart, and I really don’t keep any photos hidden from you. I only keep the photos I have published. If they’re not enough – sorry, there really is no more.
Does “Future Projects” page list all your future projects?
No. I have a number of secret projects, which are highly experimental and hence more likely to fail. I don’t list them there to avoid being hard-pressed, as they are more unusual and more difficult to complete than the regular ones. But if such a project enters a stage at which it’s very likely to be completed, it will be listed in the “Currently building” section under a code name.
Can I use any of your ideas?
Of course, that’s why I publish them. I believe that the ideas should be exchanged in the Lego builders community freely.
Do I have to credit you when I use some of your ideas?
Not necessarily. It will be nice if you do, but that’s not really the point, and I don’t require it. I’d rather see my ideas developed further and put into a good use, than look around for credits.
Are you keeping all your constructions?
I’m keeping none. I take them all apart in order to build something next, to re-use the parts. I have no regrets about it – anything I build can be recreated, and even if I kept it intact, I would feel compelled to improve something in it sooner or later. My need for building is simply stronger than my need for looking at my creations.
How many parts do you have?
Probably less than you think. I’m not a collector, I only buy necessary parts, and I’m re-using the ones I already have. Moreover, I want to hold all my parts within my workbench, and that implies certain limits. There are approximately 50,000 parts in my current posession; for comparison, a large Lego Technic set can easily exceed 1500 parts count.
What does your workbench looks like?
Messy is the word, I guess. As you can see below, there’s one large pile of loose bricks plus some drawers, cases and containers with selected parts. It may look like some cataclysm has taken place here, but I’m actually quite comfortable with this setup.
Where do you get all your parts?
There are many sources available, starting with the LEGO Shop itself, including eBay and probably the most specialized: Bricklink.com. I’m shopping almost exclusively online, because the prices are more affordable that in local shops available to me.
Can you sell me some parts?
As mentioned above, there are numerous sources of LEGO parts available. Most of them are faster and cheaper than I could be.
Do you have some special technical education?
Not a bit, I’m a linguist by education and a webdesigner by profession. I simply have a strong interest in mechanics, and a plenty of experience with LEGO bricks. All I need to build is some mathematics, geometry and access to the Wikipedia.
You should show LEGO what you build, or work for them!
Thank you, actually the company is aware of my work and we do have a certain form of a co-operation. All I can tell is that I’m not a LEGO employee, but the company uses a little bit of my help in its development.
How come your photos look professionally edited?
I work as a webdesigner. Graphic design and post-processing of photos are essential part of my profession.
Are you a professional photographer?
No, I have little idea about professional photography. I’m using a DLSR camera, a pair of good lamps, and a big piece of paper as the background. Nothing really tricky.
What cameras are you using?
As of 2011, I am using Sony a33 camera for both photos & filming, and Casio Exilim EX-FS10 camera for slow-motion footage and for filming with camera attached to a model.
Are you building with LEGO bricks only?
Yes, as far as it’s possible. That means, I’m using both LEGO and non-LEGO strings, rubber bands and pneumatic hoses, as these originals parts are most difficult (and least rational) to buy. Other than that, it’s all original LEGO bricks down to the last single part. And I don’t modify, cut or glue my bricks.
Can you build something from the Star Wars theme?
I have no interest in Star Wars theme at all, sorry.
What’s the difference between terms “Truck Trial” and “Trial Truck”?
Truck Trial is the name of the competition. Trial Truck is the name of a vehicle built specifically for this competition.
Can you make instructions for some good Trial Truck?
No. It’s simply pointless – Truck Trial is a sport somewhat similar to F1 races, which means that there are no ultimate solutions nor ultimate vehicles. Construction of trucks used in the Truck Trial is continuously evolving, the improving of vehicles never really stops, and new solutions pop up every couple of months only to become outdated sooner or later. There are many different approaches to building, various builders focus on various aspects of their vehicles, and ever most successful trucks are being improved and experimented on. Some vehicles can perform excellent against certain types of obstacles while failing against other. I’m still trying to develop a decent, universal vehicle, but even if I succeed and create instruction, it will soon become worthless. Given the extreme complexity of Truck Trial vehicles and hence long time needed to create such an instruction, it would very likely be outdated by the time it’s finished.
Do you have something to do with the BrickShelf, since you created the statistics module?
No, I’m just a regular BrickShelf user. The statistics module is an entirely external piece of software.
When building in military theme, do you have some remorses?
Actually, I’m very picky about the military theme. I avoid building vehicles created by some controversial regimes, e.g. North Korean ones. Due to historical reasons, I don’t feel comfortable with German or Russian vehicles neither. I’m aware that e.g. the Tiger tank is very popular among Lego builders, but I just don’t feel like building it. Additionally, please keep in mind that when I build a military model, it is merely to express how fascinating engineering achievement it is, not to promote the purpose of it (which is killing), nor the country that created it. I may be a fan of tracked vehicles, and still not like what some of them are used for.
How come you build so much?
There is a number of experienced builders who work really fast. In my case, I believe imagination is the key: I don’t have to try out every solution that comes to my head, because often I can imagine how it would work without touching a single brick. It’s not difficult, it’s just a matter of experience and knowledge on the LEGO bricks. There is also a matter of planning – when I build something big, I’m trying to plan it in theory as much as possible. I’m checking the exact size of the mechanisms I want to include in it, I’m trying to figure out the best way to put them together. It takes little effort, and it’s really helpful, or even crucial in case of the most complex constructions.
How long does it take to build these things?
That varies a lot, depending on the complexity of a given model and the amount of spare time I have at the moment. In most cases, it’s between 3 and 6 weeks.


@TheTechnicKiwi
No. I have my own CVT design, but it only works for low-torque applications.
Oh right. Have you thought of making some sort of truck/car with a continuously variable gear box such as The latest week tech video?
@TheTechnicKiwi
The book is slowing down my creation rate THAT much.
Are you working on a ‘secret project’ or is the book slowing your creation-rate down THAT much? And how’s the ford coming along? I have not Seen anything about it other than the fact that is in the ‘currently building’ section of future projects.
@Mecho12345
Beause I want to. And the word is “seems”, by the way.
Why do you use brickshelf? Flickr or MOCpages seams far superior. I’m just wondering cuz I want an account on one of them but I dont know which one.
@Sariel
sick i’ll buy it then
@eimmer
No.
I thought your surname was Sariel……. :/
@random
Of course.
cool
so it’s in english?
@random
No, but you can buy it as a PDF file.
will your book be avalible in aus?
@mobile crane builder
I don’t have opinion.
thanks sariel that was fast. i’ll get some videos and pics up when its finished also do you think Robbo is a good internet name?
@mobile crane builder
No, it doesn’t.
sorry for spelling mistakes in last comment
hi sariel nig fan. i’m build a big 160 stud long 9 axel mobile crane and i’m wondering if it needs return to centre steering? thanks
@Mecho12345
It just popped up in my head.
Just wondering: how did you come up with your screen name (Sariel)? As really need a good one.
@Hopey
You can’t build a needle bearing of a reasonable size with the current LEGO pieces. It would require some specialized, dedicated piece or you’ll end up with something probably bigger than the motor you’re using to drive your axle.
@Sariel
Fair enough. Has anyone tried to make a needle bearing?
I.e. get hold of some sort of tubular piece with a 2-stud diameter, that can be mounted on its outside. I’m looking at the “rocket-ey” bits on the star wars landspeeder my son got for his birthday; not ideal, as it only mounts on one side, and the axle can’t pass all the way through it, but this could still be useful, and better pieces probably exist.
Put some kind of circular sleeve around the axle, such as the bit that’s used to join axles, and put it inside the tube, then fill the space in between with some kind of free-floating round piece, such as pneumatic joiners (They do come it straight ones, as well as T-pieces, don’t they?) or “lightsaber blades” or whatever. Some kind of cap on the end, such as a flat something attached to the axle, and you’ve got a bearing, if the diameters are about right.
I’m assuming that if a lack of bearings is a known issue, then someone’s already tried this, but I’m still curious.
@Hopey
No. It’s not the axles that are the problem. It’s the lack of any kind of ball bearings.
Hiya. Very impressed by all of this, wish I had the time, budget & inspiration to do similar.
Random thought: Looking into the design of your & other people’s large scale models, one limitation seems to be that there’s only one diameter of axle available, and it’s pretty small. You make these massive suspension & steering units, that seem to be attached to the chassis only by a single axle, often with drive running through it as well. (Of course there’s usually shock absorbers or similar as well, but it’s a single axle that’s holding it on axis.) It seems to me that there’s be an incredible amount of stress on that little axle in 3kg+ models. Not to mention that all the wheels must inevitable be both attached & driven by one as well.
So has anyone made any effort to create a 2-stud diameter axle? I can think of a relatively simple way, which I don’t have the parts to test: Make a stack of the round 2x2x1 bits (clear yellow ones are often used as lights on top of constuction models, etc). These have a t-shaped hole in the middle that a regular axle could be put through. There is at least one piece that I know of that could be used to make a bearing; a 2x2x1 “arc” piece, four of which fit neatly around a 2×2 round piece. A stack of these could create a bearing, and the studs/holes on the ends would allow it to be easily mounted.
Of course you’d have to drive it somehow, and using the regular axle inside of it would be an option, but I’m pretty sure the 4 holes on the ye-olde 24 tooth gears would line up with the studs on the round bits that form the axle. I’m not sure if any large wheels have this arrangement, but one might also be able to use a ye-olde 24 gear and use the diagonal offset axle-shaped holes to line up with two of the siz holes that most wheels have.
I hope that all makes sense without diagrams. Like I said, I simply don’t have the parts to test this out, but my gut says that using something like this on the wheel axles would allow a much greater load to be carried, particularly if a silicon lubricant was used. It’s also significantly reduce torsion/twisting in cases where the input and output of the axle are widely separated.
So yeah, is there any point to doing this? Would it provide any advantages?
Cheers.
Never knew there was a tiny smiley face in the bottom left corner of your page Sariel..
@Mecho12345
Yes, it does.
That book is really slowing your creation rate down heaps
@MeCho123451
The 8297 wheel is too narrow for this tyre.
i’m not too sure because 8069 backhoe has the same tyre and the wheel looks like the 8297 one.
@MeCho123451
As far as I know, they’re too small.
do you know if the tyres from 8081 fit in the wheels from 8297? also is my computer being weird or have you put a small smiley face on the bottom left of every page on your website?
@Matt
From my brain.
@mattes
No, there isn’t.
@jake
I’ve done pneumatic suspensions a long time ago, there is nothing tricky about them. You just replace shock absorbers with pneumatic cylinders and control the pressure.
can you try to make pneumatic suspentio? ive been working on it
Hi Sariel,
is there any way to get your Leopard 2A4????
You say there are always space for negotiations!!
where do you get your ideas
@echoMe
That’s probably because there is no option to upload your pictures. You can upload URL addresses of pictures. I suggest you read what the tool tells you, then use it.
Hey sariel
you mind fixing your model scaler? many tries using it, but it cant seem to upload my pictures
(fyi, im on a mac)
@euthanasie
Not any time soon, I’m afraid.
Hey Sariel, since I saw your Pushback Tug, I’m thinking of Le Mans Prototypes (LMP). Can you build some of those? Audi R10 TDI, Peugeot 908 HDI FAP, COURAGE C60, and so on.
@Mecho12345
Um… any tracked vehicle?
can you think of any use for the speed control? yes it would be kind of handy on cars and such for driving (aka your humvee) but lego sooo should of put a spring in it.
@Arsh
They are studio lamps for photography. I can’t give you links because I’ve bought them in a shop in my country, but I’m sure you will find plenty of those at eBay.
@Sariel What kind of lamps are they? Some links where in I can find more such.
@MeCho123451
You pay for convenience, smaller size and smaller weight. If it’s worth this kind of money for you – it’s your choice and your money.
do you think the rechargeable battery box is worth it? they are like $140nzd ($180 with the charger) seems a rip-off espeacily AAA boxes are the same size, only $20 and provide more power for longer.
@Arsh
What do you need to know?
Can you tell something about your lamps.
sorry! got the wrong address, here: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=32530
sorry, i used http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemInv.asp?S=10178-1 where the 3 stud pins were connected to the shocks, it just added some stabillity, and just looked odd the model hadn’e used them.
@kyle
Nope, I still can’t see it.