Compact pendular steered suspension
Simple steered and driven pendular suspension. Very compact and strong, needs no rare parts. Step-by-step instruction provided.
One of my most popular and useful ideas. It’s a simple driven and steered pendular suspension, built without use of any rare parts like universal joints etc. It requires mainly liftarms and bevel gears. The full parts list can be seen here. The entire module’s dimensions are 15x8x5 studs plus wheels. The weight is 82 grams, and it has been successfully tested under 2 kilograms of load. All the moving parts are enclosed in liftarm frame. You can find a complete step-by-step instruction on the photos below.
@Fin
maybe your thinking of the newer, 3 stud wide ones, this is thinner, yet it is 4 studs long
@Fin
No, they don’t.
Dont the teeth on th diff rub the casing
@Jon Håvard
This design comes from before the 3-studs wide differential. I suggest to check my newer ideas.
Could you make one with the 3-studs diff? Guess you have other plans… 😛 no offence
@freakybuilders
No, I lost this file somewhere.
Could you please send me the LDraw File to freakybuilders@web.de?
Thanks
@Salih
You can build one from the Lego 8880 set.
Can you post instructions for steered, independent suspension with drive or tell me a website where i can find one please?
@Alexr
You should add shock absorbers for stability. There are plenty of ways to do so.
@Sariel
so you what you are saying is that you don’t need springs.
but wont it just tip over?
@Bartek
Nie.
Szkoda, jestem Twoim fanem i często wzoruje się na Twoich projektach 😀
Miałeś może kiedyś problem z silnikiem PF XL taki iż kabelki nie łączyły??
@Bartek
1. Bo 90% odwiedzających to osoby spoza Polski. A po polsku moje konstrukcje opisuję na Lugpolu.
2. Nie.
Witaj, dlaczego tu jest wszystko po angielsku skoro to jest polska strona??
Chciałem się spytać czy robisz instrukcje do swoich projektów ????
@Dan
No, I don’t, sorry.
Hey Sariel, would you still have the ldraw file from this, do you still have it kicking around, I’m working on changing the way it is driven and it takes way too long by physical bricks. So maybe you could send me the file? Anyways great job on this system, I’m going to be using it for my physics project involving the purpose of differential gears, it was the best one I’ve found.
Hi I have 14 years
thank you very much, it works very well and Land Rover this Tanvi done.
guillem greetings from spain
@puredeath
Try this: http://sariel.pl/2010/07/4-speed-compact-linear-gearbox/
is there a way to make a even numbered wide steering or an even numbered wide gearbox [transmision] and there is another way to make a version of this with less parts or larger and im working on trying to build a car with my mindstorm nxt useing the 3 mindstorm motors, the “brain”, and the mindstorm ir transmiter and receiver. My remote does not have speed control and ur return 2center disign is not strong enough to move the moters onec the get withen 5 degress or so of center, and i dont have the parts to build and grear box greater than 4 speeds and i have a working version of ur 4 speed manual gear box. I have to have 2 motors suplling the powers to the wheels because the nxt “brain” is so heavy that it strains all the chasies i have made with transmisions and some of my first direct drive cars do u have and ideas i could build and i have 1 differintral no shocks
thx
e-mail me at: Narutokiba11@yahoo.com
and if anyone has any ideas u can e-mail me 2
Yes, exactly.
Hey, how does the 16 tooth gear with clutch act as a pinion? since it does not have a cross-axle hole in it, is it turned by yet another gear from above?
I continue to be awe struck by the quality coming from this website. If we, in the LEGO community had the ability I would see that once a year we would vote, worldwide, on the best, in a number of categories, and present them, not only with the international recognition they so richly deserve, and a nice trophy, and we would ask LEGO to donate some LEGO parts that the winners want so ban that they drool when they simply think about them. I am just sick and sadden, here in a nursing home and no money, when I come here, first thing, and see all of the new creations. Believe it, or not, but I see things here that ARE NOT SOLD IN THE USA.
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@gimba96
I’m just working on one in my Tatra. If it turns out good, I’ll probably publish some instructions.
Great work!
I used it already a couple of times.
Only one question: Can you make an independent version?
@cody
Yes.
Yes.
so can this work with lego nxt
and how does it work like do u need two motors idk
@Beppe
The bevel gears usually can handle the torque from PF XLs. When using two PF XLs together, I tend to connect them directly. You’re right that there are small differences in their speeds and it’s a better solution to connect them through a differential, but a direct connection is simplier, stronger and less likely to fail under high torque.
Some more questions regarding high torque and gears. Can the bevel gears in the differential handle the high torque from the PF XL motor?
This question might not fit here, but I’ve seen that some of your models have drivetrains that are driven by two PF XL motors. In these cases, do you use a differential to distribute the torque from each motor to the drivetrain? Or do you simply connect them directly to the drivetrain? If the latter is true, do the motors “balance” each other well? I mean, even if the motors have the same speed on the paper it could differ in reality which could be a problem in a direct connection.
Thanks
Beppe
@Beppe
I think bevel gears are better in general, because their teeth design is more efficient. No, the PF XL can’t break the new u-joint, unless you add some gear reduction to it.
The topic of high torque on gears and drivetrains is an interesting one. After having read your gear tutorial I understand that the regular 24 teeth gear and the double bevel 20 teeth gear are the strongest ones. Are they equal in strength or is one of them the better one?
Can you tell anything about the universal joint? How much torque could it withstand? Would a PF XL motor break it?
@Beppe
Yes.
Do you mean these:
http://www.peeron.com/inv/parts/32072?img=22227 ?
@Beppe
Bevel gears are no good for large loads. Try knob wheels instead.
I’m having problem with the bevel gears in the steering axle. They slip when the load is getting large, for example when simply trying to push a heavy object with the car. I’m not using the differential since I don’t have one. The left and right side are simply connected with an axle and the axle is driven by a PF XL motor. The gear ratio is 1:1 from motor to wheel.
Any idea of what is causing the problem? Or are bevel gears and a PF XL motor simply a NO, NO? Can I expect to have the same problem with the bevel gears in the differential if I use one?
Thanks for these wonderful web pages!
@Ben
This is a different suspension of the same type, the way of using shock absorbers is the same: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Sariel/Cat990H/dscn7018.jpg
Note that you don’t actually need absorbers for this suspension. They are only useful for improving stability.
@Sariel
Oh, OK, thanks. Do you happen to have any pictures showing it with shock absorbers placed on it?
@Ben
No. It rotates around longitudinal axle, thus allowing one wheel go up and the other go down when they meet an obstacle. Like here: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Sariel/FaunSLT/dscn6202.jpg
@Sariel
So the whole structure goes up/down together?
@Ben
Because this is a pendular suspension, not an independent one.
I just don’t see where the ‘suspension’ comes in. There aren’t any shock absorbers or anything similar on it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wj-q9U22nuc
i made this using your system, but flipped the diff. around and used no wormgear to allow much more speed
thanks and they both look great
@blarson
These two, for instance:
http://sariel.pl/2009/01/colonial-marines-apc/
http://sariel.pl/2008/12/faun-slt/
what creations have you made with this design?
@blarson
Well you don’t.
how do i make one of these with the new differential
thanks
@legobuilder
Use the new 3 studs wide differential in it
@Sariel
I made some changes, have you read my mail?
@diego
Then use a fast motor or gears to accelerate it prior to driving the suspension module.
@Sariel
Yes, but it makes it very slow as legobuilder said before.
@diego
Because it’s a very compact way to transfer the drive to the differential.
why is it necesary to use a worm gear? can I avoid using it?
thanks.
thats a good idea but because im too young, I dont have the peices or the money yet-i have to wait till christmas!
OK, now I get it 🙂 what is the purpose of the clutch gear.
And the beam 3 problem I solved adding long pins as stoppers.
Hi.
Couple of question:
Is the instructions,missing a picture? 34?
Because the cluch gear doesn’t work. It makes the steering turn with a half bush with gears(?) but it doesn’t slip like clutch is design to do…?
And second problem is that the beam 3:s are pushing liftarms 2825 loose.
ok
@legobuilder
Perhaps try a stronger motor or reinforce the model.
if I speed up the input with gears the friction is so high that I lose power or my model is breaking in pieces:(
@legobuilder
There are dozens of possible solutions, and none of them is perfect. I’d like to know a really good one myself.
I want to build a big strong trtr but how can i made this trtr 4wd?
thanks
i now know how to do it.
@Adi
Then perhaps you should look for help at the Bricklink.
i really want to make this but i dont have a differential. i want to buy one from bricklink but i dont know how to do it.
@Sariel
ok I’ll try it:p
@legobuilder
Yeah, you can use a faster motor or speed up the input with some gears.
nice idea but it’s very slow any suggestions how I can made it faster? greetings legobuilder
Thx a lot dude 😉
This axle was very inspiered. But in my case not compact enought.