FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions:
Below is a list of the most common questions people ask me. Please read these before you ask me something – the answer may be already there, and it will save your time – not to mention mine.
Where do you buy all these things, and how do I get them?
I don’t buy these things, I create them myself. These are not official LEGO sets, just custom designs not available for sale.
Can I buy any of these from you?
Not really. There are basically two reasons for this: firstly, I only build every construction once and then take it apart, without creating any form of instruction. Hence, if I were to re-build a specific construction for you, I would have to rely mainly on my memory. Secondly, and more importantly, all my constructions are very ‘technic’ in nature – they contain a number of moving parts and mechanism that may get damaged and malfunction. If you want to buy them, you probably want to put their functions into some use, and it means I can’t guarantee they will work properly in every condition, not to mention the problems with shipping. They can’t be glued solid or reinforced – it’s just the way the bricks work; they can be put together, but they can be put apart as well. And I have no time for some emergency service or handling dissatisfied customers, sorry.
If the above does not discourage you, there is obviously always a space for negotiations. Be aware, however, that the specialized parts I’m often using and plenty of labour needed must reflect on the final price. We’re talking $1,000+ here.
Do you make instructions?
Usually I don’t, and there is a number of reasons for it. Creating instructions takes much more time than the actual building did, and hence it would drastically reduce the number of my constructions. I tend to use plenty of specialized parts that are rare and expensive – so even with the instruction in hand, you would most likely have to do a lot of shopping, and then perhaps feel unhappy about the way you spent your money. Finally, I deeply believe that creativity is what LEGO is about. So I’m taking many photos and I’m explaining how the mechanisms are built and on what principles they work. This plus your creativity should be enough. If you want complete, step-by-step instructions – go buy some LEGO sets.
You should submit your creations to LEGO Ideas!
No, I don’t. The LEGO Ideas program rejects vast majority of submissions, including every single Technic submission up to date, and there are strict guidelines which most of my creations don’t meet.
What software are you using to create 3D drawings and schemes?
I’m using MLCad for modelling and LDView for rendering, and LPub for making instructions.
Can you send me more photos of something?
No. The construction you’re interested in is most probably already taken apart, and I really don’t keep any photos hidden from you. I only keep the photos I have published. If they’re not enough – sorry, there really is no more.
Does “Future Projects” page list all your future projects?
No. I have a number of secret projects, which are highly experimental and hence more likely to fail. I don’t list them there to avoid being hard-pressed, as they are more unusual and more difficult to complete than the regular ones. But if such a project enters a stage at which it’s very likely to be completed, it will be listed in the “Currently building” section under a code name.
Can I use any of your ideas?
Of course, that’s why I publish them. I believe that the ideas should be exchanged in the Lego builders community freely.
Do I have to credit you when I use some of your ideas?
Not necessarily. It will be nice if you do, but that’s not really the point, and I don’t require it. I’d rather see my ideas developed further and put into a good use, than look around for credits.
Are you keeping all your constructions?
I’m keeping none. I take them all apart in order to build something next, to re-use the parts. I have no regrets about it – anything I build can be recreated, and even if I kept it intact, I would feel compelled to improve something in it sooner or later. My need for building is simply stronger than my need for looking at my creations.
How many parts do you have?
Probably less than you think. I’m not a collector, I only buy necessary parts, and I’m re-using the ones I already have. Moreover, I want to hold all my parts within my workbench, and that implies certain limits.
What does your workbench looks like?
Messy is the word, I guess. The video below shows all the details.
Where do you get all your parts?
There are many sources available, starting with the LEGO Shop itself, including eBay and probably the most specialized: Bricklink.com. I’m shopping almost exclusively online, because the prices are more affordable that in local shops available to me.
Can you sell me some parts?
No. As mentioned above, there are numerous sources of LEGO parts available. Most of them are faster and cheaper than I could be.
Do you have some special technical education?
Not a bit, I’m a linguist by education and a webdesigner by profession. I simply have a strong interest in mechanics, and a plenty of experience with LEGO bricks. All I need to build is some mathematics, geometry and access to the Wikipedia.
You should show LEGO what you build, or work for them!
Thank you, actually the company is aware of my work, but that doesn’t mean they’re going to hire me or turn my creations into LEGO sets. It doesn’t work that way.
How come your photos look professionally edited?
I work as a webdesigner. Graphic design and post-processing of photos are essential part of my profession.
Are you a professional photographer?
No, I have little idea about professional photography. I’m using a DLSR camera, a pair of good lamps, and a big piece of paper as the background. Nothing really tricky.
What cameras are you using?
As of 2018, I am using Canon EOS 70D camera with Canon 17-55mm lens for photos, Lumix G7 for videos, as well as two GoPro cameras: 4 Session and 5 Black Edition.
Are you building with LEGO bricks only?
Usually yes. I’m using both LEGO and non-LEGO strings, rubber bands and pneumatic hoses, as these originals parts are most difficult (and least rational) to buy. Occasionally I use 3D-printed parts, which is always clearly stated, and sometimes I use third-party remote control devices such as SBrick or BuWizz, where LEGO Power Functions system is too limited or too outdated for comfortable use. This, again, is always clearly stated. Other than that, it’s all original LEGO bricks down to the last single part. And I don’t modify, cut or glue my bricks.
Can you build something from the Star Wars theme?
I have no interest in Star Wars theme at all, sorry.
What’s the difference between terms “Truck Trial” and “Trial Truck”?
Truck Trial is the name of the competition. Trial truck is the name of a vehicle built specifically for this competition.
Can you make instructions for some good Trial Truck?
No. It’s simply pointless – Truck Trial is a sport somewhat similar to F1 races, which means that there are no ultimate solutions nor ultimate vehicles. Construction of trucks used in the Truck Trial is continuously evolving, the improving of vehicles never really stops, and new solutions pop up every couple of months only to become outdated sooner or later. There are many different approaches to building, various builders focus on various aspects of their vehicles, and ever most successful trucks are being improved and experimented on. Some vehicles can perform excellent against certain types of obstacles while failing against other. I’m still trying to develop a decent, universal vehicle, but even if I succeed and create instruction, it will soon become worthless. Given the extreme complexity of Truck Trial vehicles and hence long time needed to create such an instruction, it would very likely be outdated by the time it’s finished.
How come you build so much?
There is a number of experienced builders who work really fast. In my case, I believe imagination is the key: I don’t have to try out every solution that comes to my head, because often I can imagine how it would work without touching a single brick. It’s not difficult, it’s just a matter of experience and knowledge on the LEGO bricks. There is also a matter of planning – when I build something big, I’m trying to plan it in theory as much as possible. I’m checking the exact size of the mechanisms I want to include in it, I’m trying to figure out the best way to put them together. It takes little effort, and it’s really helpful, or even crucial in case of the most complex constructions.
How long does it take to build these things?
That varies a lot, depending on the complexity of a given model and the amount of spare time I have at the moment. In most cases, it’s between 3 and 6 weeks, but some large, complex models can take as long as 3 years.
Hi Paul. I have a suggestion for your next trial build. I’m planing on building this myself as it seems like a fun vehicle to build with great off road capabilities, but I thought to share it with you also. It’s mercedes new concept “car”. Pretty cool thing.
http://www.autoblog.com/photos/mercedes-benz-hexawheel-concept-by-siyamak-rouhi-dehkordi/#3000250
thanks for that, have got it to work and i’m sorry if my computing skills aren’t very good but i don’t use the computer as much as most other 14 yr olds i am busy building
@kyle
MLCad comes in a zip file, all you need to open it is a basic Windows XP. Using zip files is like the very basics of using computer, I suggest you learn it.
I have downloaded ldveiw succecfully just need to work out how the use it but when i go to download mlcad it says that its not free and tha i need a winRAR lience, did you come accros this at all when you downloaded it. and thanks for taking time out of your busy day to contact me thanks loads
@kyle
I can give you direct links, which took less than a minute to find:
MLCad – http://www.lm-software.com/mlcad/MLCad_V3.30.zip
LDview – http://ldview.sourceforge.net/Downloads.html#Windows4100
i am disapointed as i don’t seem to be able to download MLCad or LDraw could you offer any advise towards it
thanks for that yes i d mean the 3D design thanks again keep up the good work !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@kyle
Which program do you mean? For 3D renders, I use MLCad and LDraw, both are free to use and you can find them easily using Google.
where could i download the program you use and will it cost a subcribtion fee? Ohh anh love all of your models but i prefer the little things you build like the aero shift gearbox and you “ideas” collection and would love some more
@stepca
No, I don’t think I have time to make instructions for it.
in most u just hav suspension driving steering sometimes more but wat i mean is add more functions like swithing frome 2 wheel drive 2 4 wheel or 2 wheel steering to 4 and other things@Sariel
@jonh
I need to receive one more order from Bricklink, which should be delivered very soon.
how mutch time you got need to published the Hummer H1?
@stepca
MLCad.
in the second pic of ur workbench wat program is on ur computer?
@dustccarr
What do you mean by more functions other than driving and steering?
do you think you can make instructions for just a plain technic offroader without a body but more functions?
@Sherwin
I know it, I tried it.
Theres a new lego CAD that has almost every part possible. Its the SR 3D Builder designed by a guy called Sergio. You should try it, its better than MLCAD, LeoCAD or Lego Digital Designer. To find it just search for SR 3D Builder.
@roader
maybe it’s too heavy for the springs to push the car up, try harder springs!
@roader
I don’t know, I have no idea what you’ve built on it or how you built it.
the suspension of my 8297 off-roader is not going up! and what should I do? and because it only happens on my off-roader?
@dustccarr
There is no prize. The prices of Technic sets range from $10 to over $100.
and how much does the average lego technic kit cost?
is there a prize for winning the truck trials?
@jakestreat
It was so long ago I can’t possibly remember.
what is your first building?
@coolego
Listen, I was kind enough to make instruction for one vehicle, but don’t expect me to do that for every vehicle now.
no, so why you make it for the red jipe?
@coolego
No.
do you will make instructions for the hummer H1?
@gert
Nope, you can’t power any PF elements from the old battery boxes.
@ Sariel:
Is it possible to power an old 9V motor along the following system:
old grey 9V battery box –>converter cable –> new PF switch –> converter cable –> old 9V motor?
@Jetro
I will, sooner or later.
why don’t you use the wheels from the set 8466?:)
@jonh
The Tatra is taken apart already John. It’s not complete anymore, so I can’t take pictures.
where? i don’t find his mechanism!
@jonh
It’s taken apart already.
can you take some pictures of the underside of the Tatra 6×6?
@jonh
I guess that’s because it’s not published yet.
but i don’t find any thing about it
@jonh
I have finished it already.
how mutch time you have got need more to finish the building tatra 6×6?
@matthew
It’s not the matter of receivers, it’s the matter of the new battery box. It doesn’t provide as much power for the RC motor as the older one.
If you connect the RC buggy motor to the new recievers,,will it affect the speed and strength?
@Jetro
That depends on the weight of the vehicle and the size of the drive wheels. Generally one PF XL provides higher torque, while two PF Mediums provide better speed. For light vehicles with small wheels two PF Mediums will be a better choice.
He Sariel
I have a question.
What is better, two M-motors or one XL-motor?
and what is beter for diverent things like truck trail, race truck, rally truck or cars
thanks 🙂
Jetro
@Jail
Thank you. If NASA pays in LEGO bricks, it would be worth considering 🙂
my friend thinks you are a genious and that you should work at NASA or something
paul-
i fear my dark ages are upon me- my reduced time for lego coupled with my intrests in the fairer gender have resulted in a situation in which building does not fit. I’ll still check in on the blog from time to time, but for the time being my building activity is shelved (as are the bricks). So thank you for teaching me, for inspiring me, and i can assure you that this wont be the last time we speak.
play well, paul
-patrick
thanks the pictures help very mutch!
@filipe
Listen, this is the instruction: http://sariel.pl/2009/01/mini-steered-suspension/
and you have to put a rubber on it like here: http://sariel.pl/2009/01/racing-truck-turbo/
I think you’re enjoying these exclamation marks too much.
Where’s the full instructions of the video”Lego Return-to-center Steering System”?
@Ossa94
GIMPa. Czasem Photoshopa.
Cześć, Sariel. Mam pytanie. Jakiego programu używasz do edycji zdjęć, bo jak udało mi się znaleźć to edycji filmów ożywasz Windows Movie Maker. Z góry dziękuję za odpowiedź. Niech moc lego będzie z Tobą. Szacun za to co robisz. Pozdrawiam.
@Doragon
Nope. I only use it if I want to create schematics of something I’ve already designed.
Hey, your creations are fascinating. Are you using a 3D rendering program or other software when planning your projects?
on your facebook side you wrote about a glacis plate, what is that?
@gogolego
I don’t use MLCad to plan my creations.
how do you use MLcad to plan your creations even though there aren’t any PF elements in its parts list?
@Ramacco
Just Windows Movie Maker.
And which software do you use to edit the movies?
Ramacco
@Ramacco
For videos I’m using Canon PowerShot A590 IS, not a real camera.
Hi,
Which videocamera do you use?
KR,
Ramacco
@Jail
1. Well, it comes out.
2. Depends on a circuit, but usually around 40 psi is maximum. Pneumatic hoses pop off above that pressure.
hi sariel! sorry for asking many questions, but i have some more about lego pneumatics:
1. if u pump air into one inlet, what happens with the air that have been pumped into the other inlet and needs to come out?
2. how much pressure can the cicuit handle?
@Sariel
I see. You know, a few of my joints broke at the base, and I was wondering why Lego doesn’t make them with a base like 3 studs long axle connectors, those that have a pinhole in the center. I never had a problem with the connecting pins, of course I didn’t use them under such a load as a TrTr race gives them.
@Mihály Stépán
I know about it. The problem is not the base, but the two small pins in the center that connect the two parts of u-joint together. One of these pins broke off.
Sariel, when you broke a U-joint in TrTr, can you remember whether the base of the joint broke where you attach the axle), or the cross that links the two parts of the joint together?
Browsing Brickshelf I found something that could help, dunno if you know about it:
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=741242
@Mihály Stépán
I don’t know, I haven’t tried yet.
Hi! I saw you got the Micromotor. Does it provide enough power to run e.g. a motorized valve, or flashing lights mechanism, or other such “smaller” things?
Sariel, please let me introduce and idea here to all the people who visit this forum. I found out a way to make a gear shift lever rotate around one single point – that is, as in a real car. (And like the 8880 supercar’s gear shift lever.) It works with 4+R, 5, 5+R, 6 speed gearboxes (all combinations that use 3 driving rings.) I haven’t extensively tested it yet, but I will, and if someone’s interested, I’ll take pictures and provide a Brickshelf link.
Thanks very much!
@Baris
I think models are both more interesting and more challenging. It takes more skill to build a model whose size is limited and look is defined. When you build ‘free’, it’s too easy to bend the look of a construction for your convenience.
Sariel, I really admire your creations. Your scaling and design, and technic are… brilliant. The thing is; why don’t you build your own creations instead of scaling other than the hotrods and the buggies? It would be amazing to see what do you have in mind. I just noticed a tiny smiley on the left bottom of the browser page, gave me the laughs. Thanks for that, too.
Oh, and I sure hope you don’t mind me sending you the vid. In the future, I’ll stick to Brickshelf and providing the link to see.
@Sariel
Yeah, thass what I was afraid of.. :-/ I was thinking about an Audi A6 or A8 (S8 V10? 😀 ). I just got my 8448 wheels yesterday, and boy, do they rule! Of course, the scale of a vehicle increases with them, so steering lock starts becoming a problem you see…
Thanks anyway!
@Mihály Stépán
I have used these CV joints in several vehicles, e.g. in my Hellbender. The steering lock was not really huge, but I doubt you can get much better with driven & steered wheels using LEGO parts: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=3787722
Can someone help me with the following question:
Take the 4×4 Offroader set. What’s the approx. maximum steering lock of the front wheels, that are driven by those light gray CV joints? I wanna build an AWD car, but I don’t want to order those joints (they’re quite expensive) if they don’t offer a fairly good steering lock (like at least 35-40 degrees in one direction, that is, 70-80 from end to end.) Thanks!
@Sariel
My experience is that sometimes making a rigid suspended axle is more dificult… yo have ready parts for the independent one, you see.. 😉
I could make a rigid axle, but that cannot be tilted sideways. I’ll try to build one that’s similar to real ones (like that of your Hellbender.)
@Mihály Stépán
Actually, I’ll try to make them independent, steered and driven.
I checked out the original M1001, it looks impressive. Are you going to give a try to driven, suspended (and steered) rigid axles, or is it gonna be pendular?
@Mihály Stépán
I actually did, but they are very popular among LEGO builders, and I think there are already models better than the one I could build. I’m going to build a different 8×8 off-road truck though, the MAN M1001 with a loader crane.
Hi Sariel!
I was surfing on Youtube, and I saw a pretty footage on Tatra military trucks. (Youtube keyword: Awesome Off-road truck video). I admire those machines with their independently suspended wheels being all over the place, have you ever thaught of building one? A 8×8, just for the sake of simplicity… 😉
@ben
Well I suggest you look through the photos of my wheeled vehicles, there are many photos showing the chassis and that may be helpful to you.
hi
i think your work is amazing! i’m trying to build an rc car with my son and am having trouble with the rack and pinion steering when its linked up to a motor. any chance of some help?
@Mihály Stépán
Along with the MLCad software, I guess.
Can you tell me where i can download an example mclad file to learn how it works? thx!
A portal axle? That’s a nice solution, especially if you can pair it with independent suspension…you made me curios, I’m waiting to see your Hummer! 🙂
Thanks for the information!
@Mihály Stépán
Yes, it was deliberate. The universal joints have their limit. This, however, can be helped by gearing down the driveshaft between the wheel and the universal joint. Such a solution is called a portal axle, and it’s going to be used in my Hummer H1 model.
Yes, I think there’s reason to what you said. I certainly want to abandon this practice, and now that I can order parts online, redesigning could help.
Another question: in the pendular suspension, did you deliberately prefer bevel gears over universal joints? E.g. taking the APC model, could the joints withstand the tension of the drive? I’m having doubts over the strength of these joints, and I don’t want to brake any more. (I used them as flexible axle-connectors in a steering system to connect the steering wheel with the gear reduction system, and they broke…)
@Mihály Stépán
In terms of LEGO constructions, I think it’s cheating. The way I see if I cut LEGO pieces today, why not add some custom metal parts or an internal combustion engine tomorrow? If you want to build with LEGO bricks then build with LEGO bricks, not with some-pieces-you-cut-to-fit-in.
Hi!
I’m fascinated by your models, also I’m getting inspired by them! Hah. You mentioned that you don’t cut or glue the parts. Apart from that, do you think it’s “cheating” of some sort, or is it OK to sacrifice parts? I had (and still am having) trouble with designing an indep. front suspension, and I cut (shortened) some parts because they simply didn’t fit due to lack of space. This doesn’t mean that I destroy kilos of parts, but still, I think it’s okay to modify tehm if it is necessary. What do you think about that? Oh, and if you’re interested in that suspension design, I’d be happy to send you photos.
Best,
Mike
@Lukas
You can use multiple shocks, you can try mounting them at various angles and various places… there’s a lot of space for experimenting.
@Sariel
So it’ll break sooner or later. Is there any solution to make such a soft suspension with so much travel? Aren’t the stock shocks too short?
@Lukas
It’s possible because of weak rocking levers. This suspension may work but it’s the weirdest one I’ve ever seen, big, impractical, and likely to break some structural parts.
Quick question. Would you be able to tell me how this suspension works? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SleqEr0uWR4. I’m sure you’ve seen it before, but can’t imagine Lego’s bending or twisting so easily? How is it possible?
@Andrey
Sorry, no idea.
Hi, Sariel!
I have a little bit different question. Yesterday I was building sort of a tank and for turning I’m using 2 PF XL motors. But when I wanted to go backwards nothing happened. I disassembled the motors and discover that one of them didn’t go backwards only forwards. I connected the motor to the battery box directly- the same. Do you have an idea what could be damaged in the motor?
@Páll Rúnar Gíslason
You have to calibrate the hardness of the clutch. To increase it, use gear reduction between wheels and the clutch.
@Sariel
But if the car hit an obstacle or the car get into rough terrain, would the clutch just give away.