FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions:
Below is a list of the most common questions people ask me. Please read these before you ask me something – the answer may be already there, and it will save your time – not to mention mine.
Where do you buy all these things, and how do I get them?
I don’t buy these things, I create them myself. These are not official LEGO sets, just custom designs not available for sale.
Can I buy any of these from you?
Not really. There are basically two reasons for this: firstly, I only build every construction once and then take it apart, without creating any form of instruction. Hence, if I were to re-build a specific construction for you, I would have to rely mainly on my memory. Secondly, and more importantly, all my constructions are very ‘technic’ in nature – they contain a number of moving parts and mechanism that may get damaged and malfunction. If you want to buy them, you probably want to put their functions into some use, and it means I can’t guarantee they will work properly in every condition, not to mention the problems with shipping. They can’t be glued solid or reinforced – it’s just the way the bricks work; they can be put together, but they can be put apart as well. And I have no time for some emergency service or handling dissatisfied customers, sorry.
If the above does not discourage you, there is obviously always a space for negotiations. Be aware, however, that the specialized parts I’m often using and plenty of labour needed must reflect on the final price. We’re talking $1,000+ here.
Do you make instructions?
Usually I don’t, and there is a number of reasons for it. Creating instructions takes much more time than the actual building did, and hence it would drastically reduce the number of my constructions. I tend to use plenty of specialized parts that are rare and expensive – so even with the instruction in hand, you would most likely have to do a lot of shopping, and then perhaps feel unhappy about the way you spent your money. Finally, I deeply believe that creativity is what LEGO is about. So I’m taking many photos and I’m explaining how the mechanisms are built and on what principles they work. This plus your creativity should be enough. If you want complete, step-by-step instructions – go buy some LEGO sets.
You should submit your creations to LEGO Ideas!
No, I don’t. The LEGO Ideas program rejects vast majority of submissions, including every single Technic submission up to date, and there are strict guidelines which most of my creations don’t meet.
What software are you using to create 3D drawings and schemes?
I’m using MLCad for modelling and LDView for rendering, and LPub for making instructions.
Can you send me more photos of something?
No. The construction you’re interested in is most probably already taken apart, and I really don’t keep any photos hidden from you. I only keep the photos I have published. If they’re not enough – sorry, there really is no more.
Does “Future Projects” page list all your future projects?
No. I have a number of secret projects, which are highly experimental and hence more likely to fail. I don’t list them there to avoid being hard-pressed, as they are more unusual and more difficult to complete than the regular ones. But if such a project enters a stage at which it’s very likely to be completed, it will be listed in the “Currently building” section under a code name.
Can I use any of your ideas?
Of course, that’s why I publish them. I believe that the ideas should be exchanged in the Lego builders community freely.
Do I have to credit you when I use some of your ideas?
Not necessarily. It will be nice if you do, but that’s not really the point, and I don’t require it. I’d rather see my ideas developed further and put into a good use, than look around for credits.
Are you keeping all your constructions?
I’m keeping none. I take them all apart in order to build something next, to re-use the parts. I have no regrets about it – anything I build can be recreated, and even if I kept it intact, I would feel compelled to improve something in it sooner or later. My need for building is simply stronger than my need for looking at my creations.
How many parts do you have?
Probably less than you think. I’m not a collector, I only buy necessary parts, and I’m re-using the ones I already have. Moreover, I want to hold all my parts within my workbench, and that implies certain limits.
What does your workbench looks like?
Messy is the word, I guess. The video below shows all the details.
Where do you get all your parts?
There are many sources available, starting with the LEGO Shop itself, including eBay and probably the most specialized: Bricklink.com. I’m shopping almost exclusively online, because the prices are more affordable that in local shops available to me.
Can you sell me some parts?
No. As mentioned above, there are numerous sources of LEGO parts available. Most of them are faster and cheaper than I could be.
Do you have some special technical education?
Not a bit, I’m a linguist by education and a webdesigner by profession. I simply have a strong interest in mechanics, and a plenty of experience with LEGO bricks. All I need to build is some mathematics, geometry and access to the Wikipedia.
You should show LEGO what you build, or work for them!
Thank you, actually the company is aware of my work, but that doesn’t mean they’re going to hire me or turn my creations into LEGO sets. It doesn’t work that way.
How come your photos look professionally edited?
I work as a webdesigner. Graphic design and post-processing of photos are essential part of my profession.
Are you a professional photographer?
No, I have little idea about professional photography. I’m using a DLSR camera, a pair of good lamps, and a big piece of paper as the background. Nothing really tricky.
What cameras are you using?
As of 2018, I am using Canon EOS 70D camera with Canon 17-55mm lens for photos, Lumix G7 for videos, as well as two GoPro cameras: 4 Session and 5 Black Edition.
Are you building with LEGO bricks only?
Usually yes. I’m using both LEGO and non-LEGO strings, rubber bands and pneumatic hoses, as these originals parts are most difficult (and least rational) to buy. Occasionally I use 3D-printed parts, which is always clearly stated, and sometimes I use third-party remote control devices such as SBrick or BuWizz, where LEGO Power Functions system is too limited or too outdated for comfortable use. This, again, is always clearly stated. Other than that, it’s all original LEGO bricks down to the last single part. And I don’t modify, cut or glue my bricks.
Can you build something from the Star Wars theme?
I have no interest in Star Wars theme at all, sorry.
What’s the difference between terms “Truck Trial” and “Trial Truck”?
Truck Trial is the name of the competition. Trial truck is the name of a vehicle built specifically for this competition.
Can you make instructions for some good Trial Truck?
No. It’s simply pointless – Truck Trial is a sport somewhat similar to F1 races, which means that there are no ultimate solutions nor ultimate vehicles. Construction of trucks used in the Truck Trial is continuously evolving, the improving of vehicles never really stops, and new solutions pop up every couple of months only to become outdated sooner or later. There are many different approaches to building, various builders focus on various aspects of their vehicles, and ever most successful trucks are being improved and experimented on. Some vehicles can perform excellent against certain types of obstacles while failing against other. I’m still trying to develop a decent, universal vehicle, but even if I succeed and create instruction, it will soon become worthless. Given the extreme complexity of Truck Trial vehicles and hence long time needed to create such an instruction, it would very likely be outdated by the time it’s finished.
How come you build so much?
There is a number of experienced builders who work really fast. In my case, I believe imagination is the key: I don’t have to try out every solution that comes to my head, because often I can imagine how it would work without touching a single brick. It’s not difficult, it’s just a matter of experience and knowledge on the LEGO bricks. There is also a matter of planning – when I build something big, I’m trying to plan it in theory as much as possible. I’m checking the exact size of the mechanisms I want to include in it, I’m trying to figure out the best way to put them together. It takes little effort, and it’s really helpful, or even crucial in case of the most complex constructions.
How long does it take to build these things?
That varies a lot, depending on the complexity of a given model and the amount of spare time I have at the moment. In most cases, it’s between 3 and 6 weeks, but some large, complex models can take as long as 3 years.
@Yiran
Thanks. I have published one book so far, the second one is coming out this October and you can pre-order it already.
@Ivan
Looks like your options are: live with the backlash, or move the gearbox so that motors can be attached to it directly.
Hi Sariel,
Just subscribed you today, and will buy that book (is that just one book you published?), should’ve known your place earlier.
Surprised that our birthday are close :p (mine is Dec.23, same age) and I’m also a designer (Product), mechanical/industrial design background, also good at graphics. My LED street light design is all over London now 😉
It’s a shame I hadn’t been into Lego much these years (had 8412 during middle school, 8421 in university, funny coincidence), Your videos just encouraged me to buy more Lego again :p
Cheers
Hi Sariel,
The axis where the piece that moves the driving ring is installed is vertical. To turn this axis directly with the servo (without gears), the servo would need to have its axis also in vertical, and at a higher height than the gearbox, so the servo would be placed well above the truck chassis level. But I want the servo to be integrated in the chassis (as if it were a fuel tank or so), so in the end I need gears. Or a bar linkage, but I have also tried and the problem with backslash is the same.
My intention is to control the gearbox with the basic remote, just to ease the switch operation of the gearbox: something like -1,0,1. If the Speed Control Remote is used instead, then the switching is more complicated to be done at the same time as steering and speed control of the model.
Thanks,
@Ivan
Thank you. I’m not sure why you need gears between the Servo and the driving ring. If you want to limit how far the Servo motor turns, you can do that using the Speed Dial Remote (http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?S=8879-1) – it will let you turn the Servo motor by a desired degree, and it will keep it in position.
Hallo Sariel,
I have been an AFOL for a number of years, but new into Technic stuff. I have your book (Unofficial Builders Guide) and I am finding it very useful.
My target is to build some truck models with Technic, so I decided to start with a gearbox. I built your 4 speed synchronized transmission, and I am in the process of remote control it.
And here comes my question: after a number of trials, I cannot find a solution to control with a PF servo the movement of the driving rings: as you know, this gearbox requires that one of the driving rings is at neutral position when the other driving ring is engaged. So it is very important to have a good control on the neutral position.
I use a couple of 12 tooth double bevel gears, meshed in perpendicular manner; and due to the backslash of these two gears, it is unavoidable that the neutral position on the servo does not correspond to the neutral position of the driving ring when switching in one direction (it is ok on the opposite direction).
I would need more gears to transfer the movement from the servo, but if I have this problem with only 2 gears, adding more gears will not become any better.
There is no backslash between the driving ring and the piece that is moving it (I am using the same piece that you propose on Fig 8-6 for a differential lock), so the problem is purely the backslash in gears.
I tryed with other gear combinations, even with a worm gear… but nothing better.
Can you please give me some suggestion?
Thanks a lot, and congratulations for your work (for both quantity and quality)
Iván
@leon
You are clearly mistaking me for Google.
Ok legos-bricklink
But, where are the cheapest quadcopters.
@leon
As my every single video says: Bricklink.
Hello sariel!
You are great lego builder and your legos are great.
I like your quadcopter too.
Pleas can you tell me the site where are the cheapest.
Thanx, and please tell me.
How do you control the amount the video is sped up in Droid Timelapse?
Dear Sariel,
The RC upgrade of the Lego pickup truck is awesome.
I definitely want to build that upgrade with my son.
Now I saw your video on youtube a few times.
(i.e. “Lego Technic 42029 Custom Pick-Up FULL RC MOD with instructions”
Sadly I am not able to decipher from the video what parts I need.
Would you have a parts list of the lego components required for this upgrade?
Many thanks already and keep up the good work 🙂
best regards,
Bongo
@Cactus
Well, some newer version of the Pinnacle Studio or Sony Vegas, or Adobe Premier, or Windows Media Maker.
Hi,
Can you recommend somewhere to find video editing software that is suitable for Lego videos? I know you use Pinnacle studio 14, but I believe this is now unavailable, so is there some sort of other program you would recommend?
@Preston tech
I don’t measure RPM. For speed, I’m using Move! Bike Computer app.
What app do you use to measure and calculate the speed and rpm of your models ?
On bricklink there is only one left. Guess I’ll try eBay.
@Prestontech
Use the auxiliary output?
What can the lego rc buggy battery ( with auxiliary output) do that the rc buggy battery (without auxiliary output) can’t.
@Andrew
That looks very interesting, thanks for sharing.
I am not sure if you a LEGO purist but I used your book a a resource while working on my latest Microbric project and felt I should than you and let you know what we have done.
You might be interested in a couple of points about the Edison project, I have been working on Brenton and I worked together to solve the technical problems with proof of concept prototypes, these were integrated into a digital CAD prototype and then we used a 3d printer combined with conventional machined parts to evaluate and test the functionality of the CAD model before having prototype injection moulding tools made, the first round of tooling brought us to %90 ready for production a round of tooling changes has us ready for release next month, although Microbric has an extensive network of sales opportunities from past projects we decided to look to crowd funding to get pre sales and further market exposure, within 3 days the project is at %90 funding and projected to hit %600
http://www.kicktraq.com/projects/937295081/edison-fun-robotics-for-tomorrows-inventors/#chart-exp-trend
We feel success of this project is reliant on the successful implementation of a number of disruptive technologies and skills;
Industrial design, Digital (CAD) prototyping, 3D printing professional collaboration, government support and crowd funding.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/937295081/edison-fun-robotics-for-tomorrows-inventors
Hope you enjoy having a look at this South Australian story and can share some of the information /secrets of success with your group or friends.
@Felix Boije af Gennäs
I made a video review, you know…
@Sariel
I see, that’s wonderful. 🙂
What are your impressions of the SBrick so far?
@Felix Boije af Gennäs
Hello Felix. If you actually read this Kickstarter page, you will notice I’m the official SBrick tester.
Hello Sariel!
Have you seen the “SBrick” Kickstarter project?
It is a brick that works like the official lego ir-receiver, but can control 4 PF motors wirelessly from a smartphone app via Bluetooth. I think it looks very promising in terms of functionality and price.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/sbrick/sbrick-smart-way-to-control-all-your-lego-creation
Regards
Felix
@Colin
My calculator sometimes shows it the wrong way, sorry.
Hello Sariel,
Sorry if I’m being a n00b, but I’m getting a bit confused with gear ratios.
In your book, The Unofficial LEGO Technic Builder’s Guide, in the chapter on Gears, you express the gear ratio as the number of follower gear’s teeth : the number of driver gear’s teeth.
The Lego Gear Ratio Calculator website, http://gears.sariel.pl/, appears to express it the other way around.
Am I just not reading this right?
@Marcin
Na Bricklinku.
Hej
Chciałbym spytać jeśli można gdzie zakupujesz części do swoich projektów?
Dziś przeglądałem parę sklepów i ceny są kosmiczne…
@Sariel
Yes, you’re right! I should have been familiar with it as a French!
Anyway, I found Nico71 MOC very interesting, as well as his CVT system. I’ll try to adapt them to the 4×4 crawler.
Another question: I’ll probably have to put two wheeled axles at the rear, hence having a 6-wheel vehicle. What should I do regarding:
– aesthetics: 1 axle ahead + two grouped axles at the back or 3 axles front-middle-back?
– steering: which axles should be steered?
– power: which axles should be motorized?
Thanks for your help
Philou
@jake
Yes, and I’m not interested in it.
have you ever thought about building a truck model propelled by a pneumatic engine?
@aj
Pinnacle Studio 14.
what software do you use for video editing?
@Philou
Funny, I thought as a French you would be familiar with a vehicle that works exactly the way you described: http://www.nico71.fr/trophy-truck-with-continuously-variable-transmission/
@Sofia
What kind of advice do you need? Wouldn’t my book help you better than an hour of my time?
Hi.
I am writing cause I need some advice regarding technic pieces (NOT where to buy them! 🙂 and I am wondering if I could pay you for say, an hour of your time? My son is crazy about technic, and I bought him some sets, but he wants to buidl contraptions. Thus I need some advice… thanks!
sofia
Dear Sariel,
I recently bought and built the n°9398 4×4 crawler. Found it very well designed.
Unsurprisingly, I was stunned by its torque: indeed, the 4WD is able to drive outdoor in a very uneven ground, it’s even able to climb a 10 cm-high step! Stunning.
BUT, the problem is: high torque = low speed, as you very well explain in your book “the unofficial lego technic buider’s guide”.
Therefore, I had the following idea: as most automatic gearboxes increase or decrease their ratios depending on the input engine’s speed, what about creating an automatic gearbox that would “choose” the right ratio depending on the resistance facing the wheels?
This way, the 4WD crawler would be able to speed up on an flat/easy ground (i.e. a “road”) and would automatically slow down (thus increasing its torque) when encountering obstacles on its way…
What do you think? I tried to find in the Web building instructions for such an automatic gearbox, but in vain. Would you help me?
Thanks in advance! Philou (from France)
Thanks !
It’s always a pleasure to see your new models, they are all amazing ! Continue for all your fans !!!! Have a nice day !!
@Sariel
@joe
These wheels are practically identical.
Hi, is it possible to change the wheels 32020 with the wheels 86652, in the mb540k model ? Are there modifications to do ? Thank you so much ! Joe
@Shorjok
I don’t think you’re going to get any decent speed out of a single RC motor with that weight. Two RC motors would be more realistic.
@Sariel
I have considered using 2 L motors, but they would be nowhere near sufficient to reach what I would consider a ‘decent speed’. This is not a Truck Trial, it’s meant to be a rally racer. There are already 2 sets of 12 to 20 tooth gear ‘torque conversions’.
@Shorjok
What about L motor? Or at least some gear reduction for the RC motor?
@Sariel
Because it’s the only one powerful enough? The XL motor is too big to be able to comfortably fit inside the central module. The buggy motor’s thin output ‘arm’ fits snugly into the shape of the ‘bike’, with the remaining portion hanging over the front. There is not room in the back since that is where the reciever, rear light and thrusters sit.
@Shorjok
Why use RC motor when there are so many PF motors to choose from? A single RC motor would struggle with 0.9 kg in any vehicle.
Hey, Sariel. I’m currently stuck on an RC MOC I’ve been working on for well over a year now, on and off. there have been many problems and necessary redesigns along the way due to the odd shape of the vehicle – it’s what can only really be described as a motorbike with suspension arms extending from the sides, with perpendicular ‘arms’ attached ending with wheels on the inside [batman-tumbler style] at the front and back [the front arms being longer than the rear, and housing two wheels on each arm with one on each at the back].
I understand this sounds complicated and probably hard to imagine, but due to the fact that there is no ‘inside’ space to house gearboxes, motors, functions etc. most of the motors have been housed in the front end of the wheel – arms and in the central ‘bike’ part, leaving space for only 1 Buggy Motor, powered by a non-rechargeable ‘brick’ battery box housed in the right front arm.
The problem here is that because of the inability to have proper ‘axles’ etc. due to the ‘inside wheel’ structure, the drivetrain is rather complicated and after testing the completed drivetrain with the buggy motor, it struggles to move the 0.9 KG mass at all, let alone slowly.
I have been thinking of a few solutions:
1) Replace the rear wheel-arms with 2 buggy motors, and attach the rear wheels directly to the motor output.
Pros: It would free up space in the central bike area by moving the motor and removing the differential, allowing for a smaller, better looking central module.
It would completely eliminate any possible problems with the drivetrain, since there wouldn’t be a drivetrain at all.
It would make the vehicle much more powerful and possibly able to push itself along at a decent speed.
Cons: It would cost more for another buggy motor, adding to the already expensive construction.
It would remove the differential, making it not turn quite as well.
It would require more power, meaning that the space in the bike area would probably have to be used for the second battery box.
Buying a second battery box would once again add to the cost.
2) Remove all electrical elements and simply turn the whole vehicle into a technic ‘playset’ rather than an RC buggy.
Pros: Removal of large elements such as the battery box, reciever and motor would allow for additional features such as a gearbox or deployable weapons
It would make the vehicle lighter and easier to carry.
It would clean up the mess previously left by PF wires hanging all over the place.
Cons: The original goal was to make it an RC vehicle, so it would be a disappointment.
No lights, which really add to the look.
I know this has been a very long read, so thank you if you have taken the time to read it and hopefully you can help me in some way. Being somewhat experienced, this vehicle was meant to be my ‘magnum opus’ and it’s a huge shame to see it sitting there, wires all over the place, waiting to be finished. I would have attached a photo to be a lot more helpful in explaining the construction, but unfortunately my camera is missing at the moment and I don’t have any alternatives. Hopefully I can send you a picture later.
Thanks
@Guenter
There’s a lot of things I don’t mention simply because of the volume issues. My book was planned to be some 200 pages long, it grew to well over 300, and if I could put everything I wanted in it, it would end up with some 500 pages and would not be affordable for most people.
@jake
Here: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=57518
Thank you for your wonderful book. It´s really awesome to have all these things including your ideas in one compendium! While reading I am collecting some remarks from my own experiences and would like to contribute (as many others, I suppose :-)). Is there a specifc email or forum where to adress that to? E.g. you do not mention the possibility to build a vacuum pump which can be used to fill a pneumatic tanks with water for fire trucks.
I trying to buy tracks (large track type) for a tank but can’t find them on bricklink
@Chris Rook
I suggest you look for help at some community forum, like Eurobricks for example.
Hi there, I have been following you for a while.. do you have an email address? I wanted to plug your brain about solving a wheel problem I currently have with model I am working on. It’s not much as a technical problem but finding the right looking one, i.e. wheel and tyre. It’s for a 1967 Mustang Shelby GT500 which when done I think will be up there with technic car creations.
Cheers, Chris
@Technirus
Um, keep it covered when not building?
A year ago I started building the Aston Martin ONE-77 but because it’s quite big, I lost interest in it over the time. Because I’ve already finished building all the functions and the body isn’t my favourite part at building process, the Aston Martin has caught some dust. Althoug I’ve enough ideas for other models, I can’t build because all neccesary parts are used in the car :/ So,my question is, what can I do to prevent that?
@Michel Coumes
Sure, you have my permission. Pity it’s an old model, and not a very good one.
Hello,
I am compiling a book in French and English about international production of Morgan miniature models. I’ll include a chapter on Lego and Meccano. I see on your site that you have already made a Lego based Morgan and I hereby request your approval for using your name and publish the related photo (without text).
For information, I am the secretary of the French Mediterranée Morgan Club and intend to sell the booklet via the worldwide Morgan clubs.
With thanks,
Michel Coumes
@Sariel
Thanks for your clarification!
@D
Yes, just as the description says.
Alright, thanks for your reply! So it was basically using Lego parts to build and house the RC unit?
@Sariel
@D
There was no Lego Mindstorms involved whatsoever, why would there be?
Hi, I would like to ask some questions regarding the batman tumblr u have made. It is amazing and inspired me to make one for my own! I understand that you have used some RC parts for the tumblr, do you have any recommendation for those parts? And I would to check whether did you used mindstormz or lego technic controller for that project? Hope that you would still remember.
Thanks!
D
@Witherley
I don’t know how many pieces I own, and I don’t have any access to any kind of 3D printing technology.
Another question: You say that you find it to be cheating if you cut parts. What about 3D printing parts that they don’t have any variant of that you would need? Say, if you needed something to make a model float but you couldn’t just attach a boat hull and decided to 3D print some ballast tank pieces that you attach to the underside of your model?
I’m not sure if anybody’s asked this already, but how many pieces of specific types etc. do you own? (e.g. electronic elements, “specialised” vehicle parts such as shock absorbers and differentials etc.)
Thanx.
@kiki
Hello Kiki,
A friendly suggestion. Go to http://www.bricklink.com and join the site by becoming a member. Then go to “Forum” and ask your questions there. You will get more of the answers you need. If you are under 18 years of age, you will have to get an adult to join and help you. I hope this helps.
Sincerely Yours,
Ken
@kiki
Bricklink?
Sariel, where can I buy lego pf rc set (motors andreciever).if you can send me a website where are the cheapest.
@Alexander
No, they don’t.
Do your switches ever break and do you know how to stop it happening/ fix it? My switch broke after ayear without that much use.
aha ok nie zauważyłem dołu tego kabla
@adamosek
I do takiej dostałeś link.
@Sariel sariel chodzilo mi o zlqczke ktora pozwoli mi polaczyc zestawy power functions z technic control center
@Rob Visser
Seriously? These are, like, one of the most common Technic wheels ever: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=32020c01
Hello, I’m trying to build the Mercedes Benz 540K Special Roadster with dark red stones (it’s becomming really nice !) but can you please tell me what sort/size of wheels/tires you used ? I’ve tried a view, but they all don’t fit.
Kind regards, Rob Visser, The Netherlands
@adamosek
Kable Power Functions sa tylko jedne, ale złączki istnieją, od jakichś raptem 7 lat… http://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?pg=1&q=extension+wire&catLike=W&v=2
Sariel istnieja zlaczki z tych starych kabli power functions na te nowe? (prosil bym o linka do bricklink(jesli sie da))
Sariel Teraz caly czas oglądam twojego chomiczka bo mój mi 2 dni temu zdechl:(
Był podobny do twojego i mial 3 lata 🙁 🙁 🙁 🙁 🙁 🙁 🙁 🙁 🙁 🙁 🙁 🙁 🙁 🙁 🙁 🙁 🙁 🙁 🙁 🙁
@michiso
Podaję link: http://allegro.pl/lego-technic-17873
Drogi sarielu mam pytanie. Czy istnieja zestawy pneumatycznych części?
Jesli tak to czy mógł byś mi podać link?
Jesli nie to czy znalazl bys dlamnie stosonkowo tanie czesci i podac linki (tylko takie zebym mogl cos z nich zrobic)?
I know that.But I just feel puzzled that how does it work so perfectly.May I have a look at the structure inside? @Sariel
@Peter Pan
There’s simply a motor with a few gears that mesh with the teeth inside the Hailfire rings.
I admire your MOC a lot.But I have a question.The revolving display stand with two x784 and many small footballs,how does it work?Would you please show me picture of the structure inside?
Thanks @Sariel
@Cactus
I don’t have dust on models because I don’t have models. They are all taken apart after filming.
Hi Sariel, i am wondering do you ever get dust on your models, and if so how do you stop it? I have this problem and wondered if you did too.
PS noodle is awesome
Hi, next 22 and 23 march, i’ll partecipate to a lego meeting in Empoli, Tuscany, Italy,
this are the official links:
http://www.mattonciniapalazzo.it – https://www.facebook.com/mattonciniapalazzo
i’m going to display some technic’s moc. a pair of that are inspired by your models and ideas…
i want to write your credit or something you prefer…
Can you write me the right credit, or something like that?
Thank you!
@ossa94
Do filmów Pinnacle Studio 14, do zdjęć Photoshopa.
Witam, jakiego programu Pan uzywa to montowania filmow i tworzenia np. adnotacji do zdjec konstrukcji
@Mark
Not all of them, don’t worry 😉 There has been one reprint already.
I was wondering how many copies of your book are sold
@Chris & Ewan:
Same with me and my son. That set is awesome! You guys will love it. Also, we got Sariel’s book and it’s excellent. It’s not just a LEGO mechanics book, it’s general mechanics.
I noticed a mistake in your book, page 184 figure 13-12 you say small linear actuator and show pictures of (not necessary due to the one stud deep axle hole) a large linear actuator with the same drive solutions as used on the small linear actuator on page 185 figure 13-16.
@Chris & Ewan
Thanks, I’m glad my work is useful to you. Hope he likes the hamsters, too 😉
Hello!
My son and I love watching your videos. He’s becoming quite a masterful builder himself. For his fifth birthday he’s getting 42009… And in preparation he’s watched your video dozens of times!
He says, “Sariel is the best builder. I want to make videos like him!”
Thanks for the great work. Keep it up.
Regards,
Chris & Ewan
@Sariel
I have made up a list of parts for some of the mechanisms you detailed in chapters 7 and 8. I have shared it on Brickowl in case others might find it useful. best wishes 🙂
@matgin
My book is full of tips. You can use the RC motors with the rechargeable battery (it’s not a battery box), but only one motor per battery.
@Sariel
Ok so your book tell your tips or it is in an another book.
I ask it to you because i want to do an rc Mercedes benz 280 E (1986) and i have Big problems with bodywork i buy 2 rc mot ors but do you think i can use them with rechargable battery box ?
Thanks by advance.
Matthias
@matgin
Well, I have a book full of tips.
Do you have some tip toi make a good bodywork of a car in lego technic im a fan of your créations.
@Peter
No, not really. These are mostly fairly common parts that are very easy to get.
Congratulations for a beautifully written and designed book. I plan to make up a parts list to acquire those needed to reproduce the fascinating demonstration assemblies you discuss. But I wonder if you know if this is already available to download? Best wishes