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Jeep Wrangler Rubicon

April 20th, 2010 Leave a comment Go to comments

Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
My second 2010 Truck Trial vehicle, and the first vehicle designed for this competition other than a truck. Features 4×4 drive, pendular suspension, lights, modular body design and an openable bonnet. Update: a complete set of instructions added.


Completion date: 18/04/2010
Power: electric (Power Functions)
Dimensions: length 47 studs / width 24 studs / height 23 studs
Weight: 1.224 kg
Suspension: pendular, stabilized with 2 shock absorbers per axle
Motors: 1 x PF Medium, 1 x PF XL

After the disappointing failure of my Tatra T815 truck, I was left with less than two weeks time until the next race. Re-using Tatra was out of the question, so my only option was to build some simple and small 4×4 vehicle. Since our current rules allow this type of vehicle into competition, I decided to model the iconic Jeep Wrangler in the acclaimed Rubicon version. It was built in roughly 4 days.

The basic rule of this construction was to keep everything as simple as possible and to reduce the weight to minimum. This is why the body was built with the new Technic panels, which provide the best combination of stiffness and lightness. Both front and rear axle are built entirely with liftarms, but the frame that connects them is built with Technic bricks. The reason to use bricks was that I wanted to build a roofless version of the Jeep in order to obtain low center of gravity, and since the sides of the cabin are made of single panels, the whole model had to be kept together by the cabin’s floor. Therefore there are bricks in the floor, that provide excellent stiffness and robustness while keeping the floor thin.

The chassis, which weights just 0.75 kg, consists basically of the studfull frame connected with studless axles. Since there is very little space in front of the front axle, both drive and steering had to be transferred to the front axle from behind. This was achieved by placing a 16-teeth gear with a clutch on the driveshaft – this gear works as an idler gear between two other gears, thus transferring the steering independently to the drive. Front axle is compact but massive, strong enough to handle much heavier vehicle, and it’s bottom is entirely covered with liftarms to prevent it from getting stuck on an obstacle. It should be noted that both axles use knob wheels instead of differentials, and both are portal axles with an integrated 3:1 gear reduction. Each axle is stabilized by a pair of short shock absorbers located between the axle and the frame for maximum structural integrity. In order to minimize the effect of central driveshaft’s torque tilting the body, which occurs when only pendular axles are used, the axles are stabilized with the hardest shock absorbers available. The rear axle is built around the 7×5 liftarm frame and is not covered from below.

The model is driven by a single PF XL motor with a total 5:1 gear reduction, and the motor’s location is strictly related to our current rules. Our rules state that every model has to be equipped with a piston engine whose set-up and location are consistent with the original engine. This rule, however, can be omitted if the drive motor is located exactly where the original engine is. This is Jeep’s case – the PF XL motor occupies exactly the same place that is taken by the original engine in a real Jeep, hence there is no need for the piston engine and the model can be simpler and lighter. You can see the top ends of the front axle’s shock absorbers next to the motor. It should be noted that the PF XL motor actually touches the front axle, but because it’s located in the center of the chassis and because it has a round shape, the axle can still oscillate under it. Such a trick was necessary to fit the XL motor under the bonnet.

The steering is controlled by a PF Medium motor with a 9:1 gear reduction. The motor is located between the seats in the cabin, and the steering wheel is connected to it. The cabin has a safety cage built on top of it, which is strong enough to survive a turnover without any damage. Finally, there is the 8878 rechargeable battery box and the IR receiver located over the rear axle, as a counterweight against the PF XL over the front axle.

One special feature of the bodywork is a droppable modules design. The obstacles used in our races are often larger than the ones the real vehicles are designed for, so the usual practice to handle this difference is to increase the model’s ground clearance. I wanted to avoid it, however, to keep the Jeep’s center of gravity as low as possible. It meant that some parts of the body are very likely to touch the ground e.g.  when the approach angle proves to be insufficient. Therefore I designed a number of body elements as independent modules that would fall off when stressed, on assumption that it’s better to drop something than let it get the whole vehicle stuck. The list of droppable elements includes front and rear bumper, rear spare wheel and front mudguards. The sides of the cabin are somewhat elastic too. This design is also helpful when the front wheels’ steering lock makes them collide into some parts of the body.

The model turned out to be pretty stable, with a well performing suspension and an excellent amount of torque available. It was my goal to prefer the torque over speed, since I did not want the model to get stalled under any circumstances while its speed didn’t seem crucial. This is second model of a Jeep used in our races, and it’s much different from its predecessor, the Jeep Willys built by Atr. Among other things it is heavier, larger and slower. Observing the two models compete against each other and comparing their performance will be certainly a great experience.

The main disadvantage of this model is its size. The standard scale used for vehicles in our races is 1/13. I was in hurry while building the Jeep, so I picked up the wheels I found most suitable and scaled the whole model accordingly to their size. Eventually it turned out to be in 9/1 scale which is much different from the required one, and will probably result in letting this model race outside the official ranking (in a so-called ‘open class’). Still, building and testing this model was a valuable experience, and driving it in a race will be so too. It was also acclaimed by other builders and race contestants for its look, its authenticity and its performance. If it turns out to be successful in the race (meaning that it suffers no fatal malfunction and doesn’t end up last), I will prepare and publish a complete step-by-step instruction for it, as well as schemes of front and rear axle along with their individual instructions.

Update: since the Jeep performed well at the race, the instructions are under the photos.


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Full instruction with parts list:

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Photo-instruction for the whole model:

001.jpg 002.jpg 003.jpg 004.jpg 005.jpg 006.jpg 007.jpg 008.jpg 009.jpg 010.jpg 011.jpg 012.jpg 013.jpg 014.jpg 015.jpg 016.jpg 017.jpg 018.jpg 019.jpg 020.jpg 021.jpg 022.jpg 023.jpg 024.jpg 025.jpg 026.jpg 027.jpg 028.jpg 029.jpg 030.jpg 031.jpg 032.jpg 033.jpg 034.jpg 035.png 036.png 037.png 038.png 039.png 040.png 041.png 042.png 043.png 044.png 045.png 046.png 047.png 048.png 049.png 050.png 051.png 052.png 053.png 054.png 055.png 056.png 057.png 058.png 059.png 060.png 061.png 062.png 063.jpg 064.jpg 065.jpg 066.jpg 067.jpg 068.jpg 069.jpg 070.jpg 071.jpg 072.jpg 073.jpg 074.jpg 075.jpg 076.jpg 077.jpg 078.jpg 079.jpg 080.jpg 081.jpg 082.jpg 083.jpg 084.jpg 085.jpg 086.jpg 087.jpg 088.jpg 089.jpg 090.jpg 091.jpg 092.jpg 093.jpg 094.jpg 095.jpg 096.jpg 097.jpg 098.jpg 099.jpg 100.jpg 101.jpg 102.jpg 103.jpg 104.jpg 105.jpg 106.jpg 107.jpg 108.jpg 109.jpg 110.jpg 111.jpg 112.jpg 113.jpg 114.jpg 115.jpg 116.jpg 117.jpg 118.jpg 119.jpg 120.jpg 121.jpg 122.jpg 123.jpg 124.jpg 125.jpg 126.jpg 127.jpg 128.jpg 129.jpg 130.jpg 131.jpg 132.jpg 133.jpg 134.jpg 135.jpg 136.jpg 137.jpg 138.jpg 139.jpg 140.jpg 141.jpg 142.jpg 143.jpg 144.jpg 145.jpg 146.jpg 147.jpg 148.jpg 149.jpg 150.jpg 151.jpg 152.jpg 153.jpg 154.jpg 155.jpg 156.jpg 157.jpg 158.jpg 159.jpg 160.jpg 161.jpg 162.jpg 163.jpg 164.jpg 165.jpg 166.jpg 167.jpg 168.jpg 169.jpg 170.jpg 171.jpg 172.jpg 173.jpg 174.jpg 175.jpg 176.jpg 177.jpg 178.jpg 179.jpg


Media reference:

AutoMotto, GadgetSin

Categories: Cars, Truck Trial Tags: , , ,
  1. Sariel
    December 9th, 2012 at 09:55 | #1

    Look at the instruction.

  2. Keith
    December 9th, 2012 at 02:39 | #2

    which shock absorbers where used in this model? -thanks

  3. Sariel
    September 8th, 2012 at 12:52 | #3


  4. Dc
    September 8th, 2012 at 11:55 | #4

    can you put all of these instructions in to PDFs?

  5. gabry
    September 5th, 2012 at 08:37 | #5

    Wonderful! The jeep looks very nice and I’m sure that it works very good. I don’t like the idea of droppable modules, but I love the compact chassis and the body design that seems more compact than others, like the hummer h1’s. Great job!

  6. Sariel
    August 19th, 2012 at 16:52 | #6

    Still, there’s no point. It would require Jeep’s license to be turned into a set, and Lego rejects every Cuusoo project that involves license.

  7. Cody
    August 19th, 2012 at 15:24 | #7

    The point being that people would not have to hunt down all of the pieces.

  8. Sariel
    August 19th, 2012 at 10:59 | #8

    What’s the point, if you can easily build it yourself?

  9. Cody
    August 19th, 2012 at 03:05 | #9

    Sariel, if this doesn’t use too many Parts or motors would you consider putting it on lego cuusoo?

  10. Sariel
    July 8th, 2012 at 10:57 | #10
  11. hp+torque=success
    July 7th, 2012 at 04:48 | #11

    What if your trial truck runs out of juice during a trial competition, are you allowed to put fresh batteries in it?

  12. Sariel
    June 25th, 2012 at 23:54 | #12

    @Orion Bazzell
    Thank you for your kind opinion. I would very much like to help you, but I’m afraid it’s not possible for a number of reasons. Most importantly, I don’t have the time frame to build this model for you either, as I am in the process of finishing my book on LEGO Technic and I have deadlines to meet. You may be interested in the book, by the way, it’s coming out this Fall and you can order it already: http://www.amazon.com/Unofficial-LEGO-Technic-Builders-Guide/dp/1593274343/
    I really encourage you to try and build this model with children – they may be interested in the actual building process. You can find the parts list here at my website, and you can buy parts at Bricklink. There is a large number of US sellers available there, and shipping will cost you a fraction of what a shipping of assembled model would cost.

  13. June 25th, 2012 at 15:56 | #13

    Sariel, first let me say that your design work on the Jeep Wrangler was amazing. My name is Orion Bazzell and I am from Louisville, KY. I work as .the Head-Teacher at an English Village in South Korea. The children that come to our village participate in many different activities and projects involving the use of the English language. We have started a CONNECTS class group and the children come with their own material some of them are very well equipped. I have long been a fan of LEGO sets and wanted to get them more interested in what can be designed with them. I think that having your very american style vehicle would be the perfect sample that would get our parents interested in purchasing the items needed to create their own vehicles. I read what you said about purchasing the design assembled and understand what you mean, however we do not have the time frame to construct this and would appreciate a price quote on a completed truck. I would preferto here from you in person by phone I have a “Magic Jack Phone” and can be reached at my american number (1-502-713-5806) Thank you and Best Regards

    Orion Bazzell

  14. Sariel
    June 11th, 2012 at 19:46 | #14

    @Tony Stone
    Sure, if you don’t want to drive it remotely.

  15. Tony Stone
    June 11th, 2012 at 18:52 | #15

    is there a way to build it without a IR receiver & remote??????????????????????????????

  16. Sariel
    May 29th, 2012 at 07:12 | #16

    You have to ask someone, not me.

  17. Chris
    May 29th, 2012 at 01:46 | #17

    i couldnt find lots of the parts at either suggested website. is there any way i could pay someone to find and buy all the parts for me??

  18. Sariel
    May 24th, 2012 at 09:29 | #18

    Of course.

  19. greg
    May 24th, 2012 at 03:38 | #19

    is it possible to make it a dual pf m motor mounted?

  20. Sariel
    February 20th, 2012 at 16:35 | #20

    Because my trial trucks aren’t good enough.

  21. Ryuduck
    February 20th, 2012 at 16:31 | #21

    grat performance of your jeep wrangler rubicon…this is one of my favourite model created by you……Why you don’t make more trial truck?

  22. Sariel
    February 5th, 2012 at 17:17 | #22

    You’re wrong – they’re 30% bigger. I’m surprised you were able to fit them in there at all.

  23. Elvis
    February 5th, 2012 at 16:52 | #23

    I built the car with your plan, but the front wheels contact the “fender”. There is only the difference that I used the wheels from the new Unimog like you used them for the RG 35 because I think they have the same size…

  24. Sariel
    January 29th, 2012 at 17:59 | #24

    You know, there’s the video like 100 pixels above your comment.

  25. Technic200
    January 29th, 2012 at 17:24 | #25

    which is the trial with the Jeep in? i want to see it blow the course away!

  26. Technic200
    January 28th, 2012 at 17:08 | #26

    this thing is absolutley fabolous in terms of stability, it can descend vertical steps :))

  27. Sariel
    January 22nd, 2012 at 21:26 | #27

    The diameter is 81.6 mm.

  28. LinkDestroyer33
    January 22nd, 2012 at 20:25 | #28

    When you use the wheels from your Jeep Wrangler Rubicon in your models, how big in mm are the tires?

  29. Sariel
    December 28th, 2011 at 22:41 | #29

    Try the first link here: http://sariel.pl/downloads/

  30. wyatt
    December 28th, 2011 at 22:30 | #30

    can i get the blueprints for this, im making a jeep wrangler rubicon JK unlimited i could use some help. thanks

  31. Sariel
    November 28th, 2011 at 08:15 | #31

    I think so.

  32. will
    November 28th, 2011 at 02:18 | #32

    are the instructions/parts list on re brickable?

  33. Sariel
    September 22nd, 2011 at 22:11 | #33

    Yes, I have partial chassis for the Ford and I wanted to experiment with the green thingy before continuing. But I’m really busy right now and the weather is bad. Maybe this weekend…

  34. Jake
    September 22nd, 2011 at 20:54 | #34

    By the way… how are you doing with your green offroad `thunderbolt` 😀 When do you think it will be ready? And whats with your Ford GT 40, have you began to build it?

  35. Jake
    September 22nd, 2011 at 20:49 | #35

    Thank you!
    My Battery Box just came in! 😀 Now there are only batteries and custom lights missing…

  36. Sariel
    September 22nd, 2011 at 20:05 | #36

    I’m glad to hear you like it. Have fun!

  37. Jake
    September 22nd, 2011 at 19:48 | #37

    I`ve just finished building your jeep and it`s just WOW!!! It`s good looking and it works very well Indoor! Just waiting for a new battery box and an extension wire. Can`t wait to take it on a offroad trip!!! 😀

  38. Sariel
    August 23rd, 2011 at 12:26 | #38

    It’s much more robust and narrower than independent.

  39. Mecho12345
    August 23rd, 2011 at 12:15 | #39

    Why is pendular suspension on trial trucks so popular? Is it just far easier or is it actually better than eg independent

  40. Stephen
    August 21st, 2011 at 22:12 | #40

    Update on ‘jumping gears’, it turns out the clutch idea didn’t work to protect the steering transmission. I did find the noise came from one of the gray axles turning inside a 16 tooth gear in this system. I’ll just live with it, it hasn’t broken!!

  41. Stephen
    August 18th, 2011 at 20:56 | #41

    I just finished building your Jeep, what a great build with so few parts. I’m impressed with the strength of the whole drive-train and the jeep looks pretty good too!
    I’m thinking of adding a clutch gear right after the 8 tooth pinion on the steering transmission @ the motor. When I reach steering extremes I hear ‘jumping gears’, I hope this solves that issue.
    I want anyone to play with this model and not worry about breaking parts.

  42. Chanteloup
    August 4th, 2011 at 11:05 | #42


    Feel bad for you 😛 so many (retarded) people asking to buy your stuff : / and other dumb questions.

    But anyway love your stuff! Inspired me to get my lego out after 3 years 😀

    Goodluck with your building 😛

  43. matt
    July 27th, 2011 at 14:23 | #43

    @mindstorm addict

    yes, at the same way of the tractors. I think so.

  44. Sariel
    July 27th, 2011 at 08:20 | #44

    @mindstorm addict
    That depends on the type of surface and obstacles.

  45. mindstorm addict
    July 27th, 2011 at 06:41 | #45

    Will the wheels of the Unimog U400 be better for trial truck than thoses that you used in this model?

  46. mindstorm addict
    July 19th, 2011 at 04:10 | #46

    I know…

  47. Sariel
  48. mindstorm addict
    July 18th, 2011 at 20:39 | #48

    Ah ok I already buld it, but without suspention XD

  49. Sariel
    July 18th, 2011 at 16:55 | #49

    @mindstorm addict
    Why don’t you build it from the instruction and see for yourself?

  50. mindstorm addict
    July 18th, 2011 at 16:50 | #50

    I don’t understand how it works, is it the axes of motorization and for the steering that make the suspention stay at the good place?

  51. Sariel
    July 16th, 2011 at 19:03 | #51

    What price?

  52. patrick
    July 16th, 2011 at 18:18 | #52

    hi what is the price ?


  53. Sariel
    July 15th, 2011 at 23:03 | #53

    @mindstorm addict
    Um… it’s an off-road 4×4 model. What’s so weird about the fact that it has suspension?

  54. mindstorm addict
    July 15th, 2011 at 21:20 | #54

    Why is there a suspention on the front wheels, because the steering and propultion axes can’t bend?

  55. Mehley
    July 3rd, 2011 at 01:17 | #55

    Thank you for sharing instructions for this awesome model! I built it in yellow/black with modified body and interior:


    Unbelievable that you created it in just 4 days!

    I wish you another 1000 models in the following decades, and maybe a little bit more instruction for us 🙂

  56. Sariel
    May 28th, 2011 at 21:58 | #56

    I doubt there is a real solution. Both things you mentioned are simply disadvantages of using pendular suspension without turntables. Lego makes specialized suspension pieces that are better suited that anything one can build with basic pieces, but they are not really fit for serious off-road driving.

  57. Jacob
    May 28th, 2011 at 01:01 | #57

    Really admire this design. There’s great artistry in the construction, particularly considering the speed at which you built it. I have two small questions, if you don’t mind. The first was actually raised by Nico above, the suspension creating friction on the drivetrain because it’s the pivot point in the assembly as I understand it — which I assume is why you used turntables in the Rover chassis. My second question though concerns the very small clearance between the universal joints on the front axle and their respective pivot points. When the uv joints bend their diameter increases just enough to make them rub against the confines of the pivot points, causing significant friction and wobble, particularly at the wide end(s) of the turn radius.

    Is there a solution for this? I don’t think I built it wrong. I’ve built it 3-4 times now. Thanks for sharing your building instructions. What an education.

  58. April 30th, 2011 at 20:42 | #58

    thisn is a awsome car jeep

  59. Sariel
    April 12th, 2011 at 15:31 | #59

    It’s not a product and you can’t buy it.

  60. April 12th, 2011 at 15:24 | #60

    Hey i need to buy this products From where can i buy this?

    From India

    Please help me….

  61. Sariel
    April 2nd, 2011 at 21:10 | #61

    I don’t have any name at Bricklink. You can’t buy my Jeep nor other creations.
    Listen Brandon, how about you stop commenting at my website and come back in a couple of years when you grow up and start managing things yourself? I can help, but I’m not going to nurse you. If buying a handful of bricks is too difficult for you – well, you have a problem.
    Next stupid comment gets you banned from the website. Sorry, but this is getting nowhere.

  62. brandon
    April 2nd, 2011 at 19:57 | #62

    i need help wat is your name in bricklink and how do i buy it your jeep and other creations are amasing i need the jeep thow i have a 1997 and i just needed a rc vurson but i hated all of the real ones because the dont have tork or basicly an inside i have spent 1500 on other stuff but this is much better then all of it combind please tell me how to do it please

  63. brandon
    April 2nd, 2011 at 19:40 | #63

    can you make me a set comeon

  64. brandon
    March 30th, 2011 at 00:12 | #64

    i did that

  65. Sariel
    March 29th, 2011 at 21:42 | #65

    I suggest you visit Bricklink help section: http://www.bricklink.com/helpMain.asp

  66. brandon
    March 29th, 2011 at 21:39 | #66

    how can i use bricklink to bild that exzatly

  67. Sariel
    March 28th, 2011 at 07:46 | #67

    If you build the chassis properly, it’s strong enough to resist the shock absorbers.

  68. David
    March 28th, 2011 at 01:28 | #68

    Oh, how did you keep them from breaking the beam they connect to?

  69. Sariel
    March 27th, 2011 at 21:21 | #69

    Yes, they are.

  70. David
    March 27th, 2011 at 19:45 | #70

    Are the shock absorbers compressed in the front and back because my shocks were bent outwards and the back and front were the shocks connect just snapped i had that problem with the landrover

  71. Sariel
    March 5th, 2011 at 15:43 | #71

    @Ruben wynia
    What makes you think they buy ideas?

  72. March 5th, 2011 at 15:36 | #72

    why you don’t sell all your ideas to lego?

  73. Sariel
    February 13th, 2011 at 23:29 | #73

    Not really, it will still be fairly light.

  74. David
    February 13th, 2011 at 23:22 | #74

    oh ok I wasnt sure what to use, if i do use the normal battery box do i have to worry about weight problems

  75. Sariel
    February 10th, 2011 at 17:03 | #75

    You can power it with whatever you like. Also, it would be nice if you improved your English a little.

  76. David
    February 10th, 2011 at 14:58 | #76

    oh ok yea i kno wht u mean i made a trtr with it but is the rechargable battery box that good

  77. Sariel
    February 6th, 2011 at 19:14 | #77

    Sure, but your vehicle won’t have much torque then.

  78. David
    February 6th, 2011 at 18:53 | #78

    can i use the M motor for driveing the truck cuz i dont have a XL motor

  79. Sariel
    January 20th, 2011 at 16:11 | #79

    I haven’t, but I heard it can get overheated. It’s no good to put it to a heavy strain for a long time.

  80. Alessandro
    January 20th, 2011 at 15:39 | #80

    Hello Sariel
    I wanted to ask, have you ever had problems with the motor Xl, it was never burnt or broken?
    I have to follow some rules to get the best of my jeep?
    thanks in advance =)

  81. Sariel
    January 18th, 2011 at 16:42 | #81

    Of course you can do this. No, I haven’t experienced problems with the steering.

  82. Alessandro
    January 18th, 2011 at 16:18 | #82

    Hello Sariel,
    I would like to build a jeep wrangler, however, I would like to make some changes:
    1) I would use the Turntable as for suspensions in the jeep land rover
    2) I would use the classic battery pack;
    Do you think you can do all this?
    Just one question, there are problems with the steering?

    Thanks in advance ^. ^

  83. Sariel
    December 7th, 2010 at 23:05 | #83

    It should work, NXT motors have very similar parameters to those of PF XL motors.

  84. Black_Omega63
    December 7th, 2010 at 22:23 | #84

    Hi Sariel,

    I have an NXT but no power functions parts. I also do not have all the pieces for the exterior and I do not have those wheels. Would it be possible to replace the LPF parts with NXT motors? Would it still work, considering that the chassis would be greatly modified for the shape of the NXT motors?

    Thanks, Black_Omega63

  85. mientos
    October 28th, 2010 at 17:36 | #85

    No więc chyba logicznie będzie dać pudełko z przodu. Z resztą montując silnik z przodu miałbym problem z brakiem zębatek (starczy mi na styk).

  86. Sariel
    October 28th, 2010 at 13:31 | #86

    Zależy. Pudełko jest cięższe niż jeden XL, więc jak dasz je z przodu to powinieneś mieć lepszą zwrotność (przednie koła bardziej docisnięte) i lepiej się wspinać (środek ciężkości bardziej z przodu więc jak wjedziesz przednimi kołami na przeszkodę to reszta pójdzie już łatwo).

  87. mientos
    October 28th, 2010 at 13:23 | #87

    A i jeszcze jedno. Czy “pudełko” na baterie będzie leprze z przodu zamiast maski a silnik z tyłu czy jak u ciebie puełko z tyłu i silnik z przodu? (estetyka nie gra roli mam dużo paneli i coś wykombinuje)

  88. mientos
    October 28th, 2010 at 12:59 | #88

    Wiem… wygląda jak monster truck z kołami malucha (no bez przesady ale jednak)

  89. Sariel
    October 28th, 2010 at 00:27 | #89

    No, to wyszedł Ci prawie samolot 😉

  90. mientos
    October 27th, 2010 at 23:25 | #90

    Trochę mnie to zdziwiło. Zadałem to pytanie gdyż buduję coś na wzór rubicona i nie wiedziałem jaka tu będzie wysokość. U mnie wysokość mostu to ok. 7 studów i wysokość belki pod drzwiami 11. Chyba trzeba będzie to zmienić gdyż użyłem opon 68.7 r 34 i trochę komicznie to wygląda.

  91. Sariel
    October 27th, 2010 at 15:44 | #91

    W tym miejscu to ok. 5-6 studów, ale pod mostami prześwit jest mniejszy.

  92. mientos
    October 27th, 2010 at 15:17 | #92

    Jaki tu jest prześwit? tj. wysokość tej belki pod drzwiami bo z instrucji tego się nie powie a nie mam tych kół. Jeśli nie pamiętasz to chociarz prześwit land rovera

  93. Sariel
    October 24th, 2010 at 18:08 | #93

    Sorry, I’m busy enough with my own MOCs.

  94. Birch
    October 23rd, 2010 at 21:14 | #94

    could you help me with a new lego design i’m working on? It’s a G6 Howitzer,
    her is the link: http://sadfgroup.org/e-g5g6.html
    if you have an idea, you could email me on: mini-birch@hotmail.com
    Plz help, i really love your work.

  95. Sariel
    October 21st, 2010 at 21:16 | #95

    Sorry, this model was supposed to work well rather than look good.

  96. Birch
    October 21st, 2010 at 20:45 | #96

    no no, but when i do it it looks bad :(, i would just hear if you had an good idea 😀

  97. Sariel
    October 21st, 2010 at 18:18 | #97

    Oh please, is it really so hard to put a battery box in there?

  98. Birch
    October 21st, 2010 at 15:52 | #98

    can you maybe make a instruction to me with the nonrecharable battery?

  99. mientos
    October 20th, 2010 at 21:52 | #99

    same literówki .. bardzo go przypomina i dalej ..zamyśliłem się..

  100. mientos
    October 20th, 2010 at 21:50 | #100

    pomyłka chodzi po prostu o land rowera 2 a nie discovery 2 .Nie licząc przodu bardzo disovery 2 zamyśliłm się czy go nie zrobic i literówka. Przepraszam

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