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Jeep Wrangler Rubicon

April 20th, 2010 Leave a comment Go to comments

Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
My second 2010 Truck Trial vehicle, and the first vehicle designed for this competition other than a truck. Features 4×4 drive, pendular suspension, lights, modular body design and an openable bonnet. Update: a complete set of instructions added.


Completion date: 18/04/2010
Power: electric (Power Functions)
Dimensions: length 47 studs / width 24 studs / height 23 studs
Weight: 1.224 kg
Suspension: pendular, stabilized with 2 shock absorbers per axle
Motors: 1 x PF Medium, 1 x PF XL

After the disappointing failure of my Tatra T815 truck, I was left with less than two weeks time until the next race. Re-using Tatra was out of the question, so my only option was to build some simple and small 4×4 vehicle. Since our current rules allow this type of vehicle into competition, I decided to model the iconic Jeep Wrangler in the acclaimed Rubicon version. It was built in roughly 4 days.

The basic rule of this construction was to keep everything as simple as possible and to reduce the weight to minimum. This is why the body was built with the new Technic panels, which provide the best combination of stiffness and lightness. Both front and rear axle are built entirely with liftarms, but the frame that connects them is built with Technic bricks. The reason to use bricks was that I wanted to build a roofless version of the Jeep in order to obtain low center of gravity, and since the sides of the cabin are made of single panels, the whole model had to be kept together by the cabin’s floor. Therefore there are bricks in the floor, that provide excellent stiffness and robustness while keeping the floor thin.

The chassis, which weights just 0.75 kg, consists basically of the studfull frame connected with studless axles. Since there is very little space in front of the front axle, both drive and steering had to be transferred to the front axle from behind. This was achieved by placing a 16-teeth gear with a clutch on the driveshaft – this gear works as an idler gear between two other gears, thus transferring the steering independently to the drive. Front axle is compact but massive, strong enough to handle much heavier vehicle, and it’s bottom is entirely covered with liftarms to prevent it from getting stuck on an obstacle. It should be noted that both axles use knob wheels instead of differentials, and both are portal axles with an integrated 3:1 gear reduction. Each axle is stabilized by a pair of short shock absorbers located between the axle and the frame for maximum structural integrity. In order to minimize the effect of central driveshaft’s torque tilting the body, which occurs when only pendular axles are used, the axles are stabilized with the hardest shock absorbers available. The rear axle is built around the 7×5 liftarm frame and is not covered from below.

The model is driven by a single PF XL motor with a total 5:1 gear reduction, and the motor’s location is strictly related to our current rules. Our rules state that every model has to be equipped with a piston engine whose set-up and location are consistent with the original engine. This rule, however, can be omitted if the drive motor is located exactly where the original engine is. This is Jeep’s case – the PF XL motor occupies exactly the same place that is taken by the original engine in a real Jeep, hence there is no need for the piston engine and the model can be simpler and lighter. You can see the top ends of the front axle’s shock absorbers next to the motor. It should be noted that the PF XL motor actually touches the front axle, but because it’s located in the center of the chassis and because it has a round shape, the axle can still oscillate under it. Such a trick was necessary to fit the XL motor under the bonnet.

The steering is controlled by a PF Medium motor with a 9:1 gear reduction. The motor is located between the seats in the cabin, and the steering wheel is connected to it. The cabin has a safety cage built on top of it, which is strong enough to survive a turnover without any damage. Finally, there is the 8878 rechargeable battery box and the IR receiver located over the rear axle, as a counterweight against the PF XL over the front axle.

One special feature of the bodywork is a droppable modules design. The obstacles used in our races are often larger than the ones the real vehicles are designed for, so the usual practice to handle this difference is to increase the model’s ground clearance. I wanted to avoid it, however, to keep the Jeep’s center of gravity as low as possible. It meant that some parts of the body are very likely to touch the ground e.g.  when the approach angle proves to be insufficient. Therefore I designed a number of body elements as independent modules that would fall off when stressed, on assumption that it’s better to drop something than let it get the whole vehicle stuck. The list of droppable elements includes front and rear bumper, rear spare wheel and front mudguards. The sides of the cabin are somewhat elastic too. This design is also helpful when the front wheels’ steering lock makes them collide into some parts of the body.

The model turned out to be pretty stable, with a well performing suspension and an excellent amount of torque available. It was my goal to prefer the torque over speed, since I did not want the model to get stalled under any circumstances while its speed didn’t seem crucial. This is second model of a Jeep used in our races, and it’s much different from its predecessor, the Jeep Willys built by Atr. Among other things it is heavier, larger and slower. Observing the two models compete against each other and comparing their performance will be certainly a great experience.

The main disadvantage of this model is its size. The standard scale used for vehicles in our races is 1/13. I was in hurry while building the Jeep, so I picked up the wheels I found most suitable and scaled the whole model accordingly to their size. Eventually it turned out to be in 9/1 scale which is much different from the required one, and will probably result in letting this model race outside the official ranking (in a so-called ‘open class’). Still, building and testing this model was a valuable experience, and driving it in a race will be so too. It was also acclaimed by other builders and race contestants for its look, its authenticity and its performance. If it turns out to be successful in the race (meaning that it suffers no fatal malfunction and doesn’t end up last), I will prepare and publish a complete step-by-step instruction for it, as well as schemes of front and rear axle along with their individual instructions.

Update: since the Jeep performed well at the race, the instructions are under the photos.


1.jpg dsc04377.jpg dsc04382.jpg dsc04383.jpg dsc04385.jpg dsc04386.jpg dsc04387.jpg dsc04389.jpg dsc04390.jpg dsc04391.jpg dsc04392.jpg dsc04394.jpg dsc04396.jpg dsc04399.jpg

Full instruction with parts list:

001.png 002.png 003.png 004.png 005.png 006.png 007.png 008.png 009.png 010.png 011.png 012.png 013.png 014.png 015.png 016.png 017.png 018.png 019.png 020.png 021.png 022.png 023.png 024.png 025.png 026.png 027.png 028.png 029.png 030.png 031.png 032.png 033.png 034.png 035.png 036.png 037.png 038.png 039.png 040.png 041.png 042.png 043.png 044.png 045.png 046.png 047.png 048.png 049.png 050.png 051.png 052.png 053.png 054.png 055.png 056.png 057.png 058.png 059.png 060.png 061.png 062.png 063.png 064.png 065.png 066.png 067.png 068.png 069.png 070.png 071.png 072.png 073.png 074.png 075.png 076.png 077.png 078.png 079.png 080.png 081.png 082.png 083.png 084.png 085.png 086.png 087.png 088.png 089.png 090.png 091.png 092.png 093.png 094.png 095.png 096.png 097.png 098.png 099.png 100.png 101.png 102.png 103.png 104.png 105.png 106.png 107.png 108.png 109.png 110.png 111.png 112.png 113.png 114.png 115.png 116.png 117.png 118.png 119.png 120.png 121.png 122.png 123.png 124.png 125.png 126.png 127.png 128.png 129.png 130.png 131.png 132.png 133.png 134.png 135.png 136.png 137.png 138.png 139.png 140.png 141.png 142.png 143.png 144.png 145.png 146.png 147.png 148.png 149.png 150.png 151.png 152.png 153.png 154.png 155.png 156.png 157.png 158.png 159.png 160.png 161.png 162.png 163.png 164.png 165.png 166.png 167.png 168.png 169.png 170.png 171.png 172.png 173.png 174.png 175.png 176.png 177.png 178.png 179.png 180.png 181.png 182.png 183.png 184.png 185.png 186.png 187.png 188.png 189.png 190.png 191.png 192.png 193.png 194.png 195.png 196.png 197.png 198.png 199.png 200.png 201.png 202.png 203.png 204.png 205.png 206.png 207.png 208.png 209.png 210.png 211.png 212.png 213.png

Photo-instruction for the whole model:

001.jpg 002.jpg 003.jpg 004.jpg 005.jpg 006.jpg 007.jpg 008.jpg 009.jpg 010.jpg 011.jpg 012.jpg 013.jpg 014.jpg 015.jpg 016.jpg 017.jpg 018.jpg 019.jpg 020.jpg 021.jpg 022.jpg 023.jpg 024.jpg 025.jpg 026.jpg 027.jpg 028.jpg 029.jpg 030.jpg 031.jpg 032.jpg 033.jpg 034.jpg 035.png 036.png 037.png 038.png 039.png 040.png 041.png 042.png 043.png 044.png 045.png 046.png 047.png 048.png 049.png 050.png 051.png 052.png 053.png 054.png 055.png 056.png 057.png 058.png 059.png 060.png 061.png 062.png 063.jpg 064.jpg 065.jpg 066.jpg 067.jpg 068.jpg 069.jpg 070.jpg 071.jpg 072.jpg 073.jpg 074.jpg 075.jpg 076.jpg 077.jpg 078.jpg 079.jpg 080.jpg 081.jpg 082.jpg 083.jpg 084.jpg 085.jpg 086.jpg 087.jpg 088.jpg 089.jpg 090.jpg 091.jpg 092.jpg 093.jpg 094.jpg 095.jpg 096.jpg 097.jpg 098.jpg 099.jpg 100.jpg 101.jpg 102.jpg 103.jpg 104.jpg 105.jpg 106.jpg 107.jpg 108.jpg 109.jpg 110.jpg 111.jpg 112.jpg 113.jpg 114.jpg 115.jpg 116.jpg 117.jpg 118.jpg 119.jpg 120.jpg 121.jpg 122.jpg 123.jpg 124.jpg 125.jpg 126.jpg 127.jpg 128.jpg 129.jpg 130.jpg 131.jpg 132.jpg 133.jpg 134.jpg 135.jpg 136.jpg 137.jpg 138.jpg 139.jpg 140.jpg 141.jpg 142.jpg 143.jpg 144.jpg 145.jpg 146.jpg 147.jpg 148.jpg 149.jpg 150.jpg 151.jpg 152.jpg 153.jpg 154.jpg 155.jpg 156.jpg 157.jpg 158.jpg 159.jpg 160.jpg 161.jpg 162.jpg 163.jpg 164.jpg 165.jpg 166.jpg 167.jpg 168.jpg 169.jpg 170.jpg 171.jpg 172.jpg 173.jpg 174.jpg 175.jpg 176.jpg 177.jpg 178.jpg 179.jpg


Media reference:

AutoMotto, GadgetSin

Categories: Cars, Truck Trial Tags: , , ,
  1. Sariel
    September 20th, 2010 at 22:09 | #1

    Świetnie, ale ja nie znam tego filmu.

  2. mientos
    September 20th, 2010 at 20:25 | #2

    Trasa jest dokładnie taka jak w filmie o discovery 2 w 3.21 ale na początku są kamienie

  3. mientos
    September 16th, 2010 at 23:17 | #3

    Fakt. Jednak nie jest to tradycyjna gładka trasa (na wyższych odcinkach owszem) ale na początku jest zjazd z niewielkiej górki po korzeniach i tu będzie problem . Ale myślę że używając trochę mniejszych kół powinienem miec jakąś przewagę dzięki skrzyni która na 1 biegu jest bardzo dobra na “wciąganie się” po stromych zboczach na 2 dobra do zwykłej jazdy i 3 dający duży moment obrotowy (sprawdzając na prostej konstrukcji na mokrym asfalcie koła buksowały czy jakoś tak na oponach 68,7x34r ale to raczej przez lekką konstukcję bez wnętrza , amortyzatorów czy czego kolwiek)

  4. Sariel
    September 16th, 2010 at 21:58 | #4

    Do uphillu to powinno wystarczyć coś prostszego. I jeśli chodzi tylko o jazdę pod górę to duże koła nie są najlepszym rozwiązaniem, bo wymagają naprawdę dużej mocy.

  5. mientos
    September 16th, 2010 at 21:50 | #5

    akurat kupuję ten model (wolę kupowac zestawami niz pojedyńcze części chyba że chodzi o PF) i zamierzam go przedłużyc żeby zrobic miejsce na skrzynię biegów (3 biegi + wsteczny którą niedawno zrobiłem ) . Sądziłem że z tymi oponami zrobię twojego wranglera jednak teraz zauwarzyłem wagę 1,224 kg a potrzebuję zejśc poniżej 900g +- 100g gdyż potrzebuę go na zawody uphillu na czas , a kąt podjazdu przekracza 45 stopni

  6. Sariel
    September 16th, 2010 at 21:33 | #6

    Nie. Byłyby za duże.

  7. mientos
    September 16th, 2010 at 20:17 | #7

    Tutaj użyte są koła min. z zestawu 8297 tj extreme off roader 2 ?

  8. Sariel
    September 13th, 2010 at 15:08 | #8

    Nie istnieje, ponieważ taki pojazd na naszych trasach by utknął. O ile wiem pojazdem z najmniejszymi kołami w trialu był mój Hummer H1 na kołach o średnicy 64mm który nie wieszał się na przeszkodach tylko dlatego że miał osie portalowe.

  9. mientos
    September 13th, 2010 at 14:46 | #9

    zauwarzyłem że wszyskie terenówki są na oponach 68.7×34 (lub tych większych) . Czy istnieje model albo będzie na oponach 56×26 czyli modele raczej lekkie . sam zbudowałem taki pojazd i jako terenowka jest świetny ale rozsstaw osi nie może przekraczac ok.15 cm.

  10. Sariel
    August 15th, 2010 at 10:13 | #10

    M motors won’t work for Truck Trial.

  11. nate
    August 15th, 2010 at 00:46 | #11

    do you have any thing thats like the rubican that can use m motors?

  12. Sariel
    August 14th, 2010 at 14:54 | #12

    Sure I could, except it wouldn’t drive too well.

  13. nate
    August 14th, 2010 at 13:28 | #13

    do you think you could build the jeep wrangeler rubicon with m motors insted of xl motors?

  14. lewis
    August 11th, 2010 at 13:10 | #14

    in the video the raisens look square (this has nothing to do with the jeep)

  15. walsh
    July 29th, 2010 at 03:02 | #15

    Hi Sariel,

    I had combined your instructions with the parts list by blackbird and almost completed building my own copy of your Jeep Wrangler with some minor enhancements to your design, mainly aesthetics like adding a Lego exhaust pipe. I had corrected some parts that were listed or counted wrongly as well. If you are interested I can send you a copy of the parts list once I’m done with the building =)

    Thanks for sharing your step-by-step instructions it was very very helpful and I really enjoyed my time building the Jeep! Two thumbs up!

  16. Sariel
    July 9th, 2010 at 10:37 | #16

    No, I don’t mind. Blakbird is a good friend of mine, and we have been exchanging emails regularly long before he started to work on these renderings.

  17. Badachelli
    July 9th, 2010 at 10:15 | #17

    Hey, Paul (Do you mind if I call you Paul?) there are some really good renderings of your Rubicon on bricklink, by someone named blakbird


    You might’ve already seen those, but I thought I’d show you anyways.

  18. LegoCherokee’s
    June 30th, 2010 at 11:49 | #18


    Thats the best jeep i’ve ever seen !,

    i’m gonna build you chassis !

    Nice work;)

  19. Sariel
    June 10th, 2010 at 21:47 | #19

    But I have written a couple of tutorials already.

  20. Rodrigo
    June 10th, 2010 at 21:43 | #20

    Hi Sariel . OK, i understand you .
    What do you think about write a book ? do you consider this idea ?
    I think you can make some money and help a lot of dummies ( like me 🙂 ) .
    Bye !

  21. Sariel
    June 8th, 2010 at 20:49 | #21

    I don’t sell on a principle, as I take apart every model. If I had to sell something, it would have to be very expensive given the usual amount of parts and level of complexity.

  22. Rodrigo
    June 8th, 2010 at 19:32 | #22

    Sariel , congratullations for your work . You are one of the best !
    Can you sell any of your models ? I really want to buy OR ask (pay) for an exclusive model ( project ??) . Can be a car or a truck .
    Thanks !!
    Bye .

  23. Sariel
    June 3rd, 2010 at 17:19 | #23

    I know, I’m working on it. Sorry for the inconvenience, will be solved soon.

  24. stefanmaster96
    June 3rd, 2010 at 17:03 | #24

    this new website design has some problem btw sariel. For exmaple i cant view ur pics as a slideshow, i know im being pushy, but can u try and sort it out so it’ll be easier to view ur instructions?

  25. stefanmaster96
    June 3rd, 2010 at 10:58 | #25

    Yo sariel, the suspension of this vehicle is puzzling me, i tried adding suspension rods to my pendualr suspension but when one spring squeezes, because it is pendular, the other rod opposite needs to extend (which it doesn’t because there are barriers on the rod which prevent the axel from coming out) so both rods act like lift arms and dont do anything… how do i fix this???

  26. Sariel
    May 14th, 2010 at 16:02 | #26
  27. linetti mattia
    May 14th, 2010 at 15:57 | #27

    how did you make instructions?

  28. May 11th, 2010 at 21:09 | #28

    Yo sariel, ur a really hard worker! ive been studying this car and something tell me ur practising for your supercar range since it is ur first time building them

  29. Sariel
    May 11th, 2010 at 16:15 | #29

    No, but there was a clearly visible wear on drivetrain components.

  30. Mythbror
    May 11th, 2010 at 15:43 | #30

    @seriel Were any pieces broken while using your model?

  31. Sariel
    May 11th, 2010 at 10:55 | #31

    @Peter M
    There are minor problems. Turning radius is larger that it would be with the differentials and the drive motor is strained while turning. But the offroad performance is way better than with differentials.

  32. Peter M
    May 11th, 2010 at 10:29 | #32


    When using knob wheels instead of differentials, don’t you get a problem with the steering then? I mean, when you are turning the vehicle it will try to move forward and the front wheels will slip, or doesn’t they?

  33. Sariel
    May 10th, 2010 at 14:47 | #33

    Then perhaps you should look more carefully, because I have listed links to shops at the end of the first video, in the instruction and in the FAQ section as well.

  34. Jonas
    May 10th, 2010 at 14:25 | #34

    i am building trial trucks too, but i dont get the parts.
    can u tell me from where u buy your parts.
    ive been looking for a store for years…

  35. Gert
    May 8th, 2010 at 17:44 | #35

    @ Sariel: Thank you for this instruction to clean tyres. My tyres will also get clean in that way!

  36. Sariel
    May 8th, 2010 at 13:32 | #36

    First I fully submerge the whole wheels in warm water, and then I simply brush the tires clean. Sometimes I need to brush them twice, but they’re perfectly clean after that. Sorry about the dirty tires in instruction, but I was pretty tired and there was a lot of people waiting to see the instruction.

  37. Gert
    May 8th, 2010 at 13:13 | #37

    @ Sariel:
    I have seen in the building instructions that the tyres became very dirty.
    How do you ever clean them? I was wondering about that.

  38. Sariel
    May 5th, 2010 at 10:07 | #38

    It loads for me. Maybe I’ll produce a PDF later.

  39. NeuroMimetis
    May 5th, 2010 at 09:40 | #39

    Hi Paul,

    Another great MOC !

    So at the end, you have decided to produce complete building instructions… Thank you very much for that !!

    It sounds like that image #25 for front axle does not load properly. Is there a way to download all the images at once (zip file or whatever) ? As you see, the more you give, the more we ask 🙂


  40. NaturalBornuser
    May 4th, 2010 at 22:45 | #40

    Miłe oku usytuowanie silnika pod maską. Poza tym reszta też, zwłaszcza strona techniczna. Czekam na Publikację Hummera 🙂

  41. Sariel
    May 4th, 2010 at 06:55 | #41

    I did it in reverse.

  42. echo3367
    May 4th, 2010 at 01:55 | #42

    i was wondering how you did the instructions.. as in you did it in reverse, or took apart the entire thing and rebuilt it…or the third option of taking a chunk apart, then rebuilding it, taking pictures step by step..
    and thanks for the instructions ^^

  43. Sariel
    May 4th, 2010 at 00:28 | #43

    @Eric Albrecht
    These are 81.6 x 38 R tires. They seem to suit it better than any other.

  44. May 4th, 2010 at 00:09 | #44

    Paul, what size tires are these? I can’t quite tell from the photos.

  45. Matt
    May 3rd, 2010 at 20:00 | #45

    Thanks a bunch for sharing the instructions to your Jeep Rubicon. It’s a fantastic build and now when I have the instructions I’ll try to make one of my own. Great work, and again, thanks for sharing.

  46. Pontoos
    May 3rd, 2010 at 18:14 | #46

    będe go powoli składał 🙂
    ale inne nadwozie i większe koła 🙂

  47. Sariel
    May 3rd, 2010 at 12:07 | #47

    I’m sorry but I can’t. It’s several hundreds various pieces and can’t imagine counting them all together, not to mention that I put them back with other pieces already.

  48. Ogden
    May 3rd, 2010 at 11:59 | #48

    Could you give us a parts list for the instructions? I’m buying some parts off bricklink and I want to make sure I’ve got all the pieces I need.

  49. Sariel
    May 1st, 2010 at 20:49 | #49

    Nie mam pojęcia, kupuję na Bricklinku.

  50. Pontoos
    May 1st, 2010 at 18:29 | #50

    można gdzieś w wawie kupić części do zawieszenia (wszystkie)?
    pozdrowienia dla Luciusa.

  51. May 1st, 2010 at 01:10 | #51

    this is what im going to do with the instructions that sariel so kindly gave us. im gonna make
    2 of the steering modules and put them together with each other. obviously mirror each other so the steering is very tight. this method will solve many problems especially the one with “steering radius”. what do you guys think?

    steering/power steering/power steering mech

    / /………..\ \
    [“““`]________________[“““`] ] ]
    o _________________ 0 ]…………]
    […………..] […………..] / / \ \

    connected drive shaft (side view) top view

    im trianing to be a certified AutoCAD designer. i love to design and draw.

  52. Sariel
    April 30th, 2010 at 20:44 | #52

    Erm no. If you mean how is the effect created, this is a Lightbox script.

  53. Alex
    April 30th, 2010 at 17:42 | #53

    Hi..can I ask you which program do you use to format the pictures in your slide shows? is it powerpoint? thanks

  54. Sariel
    April 30th, 2010 at 12:42 | #54

    I think 6×6 TrTr will come sooner, and Hummer will come first of all.

    Yes, obviously.

  55. darksheep
    April 30th, 2010 at 12:40 | #55

    hi what if you made a car with 2 of the frot axils would it turn better and tighter ?

  56. Chili
    April 30th, 2010 at 12:37 | #56

    First of all, the size of that car would be huge, thus making the car expensive, very expensive.
    LPE team doesn’t even make that much things to their cars.
    @Sariel, make Reventon then? :DD
    Are you going to make a 8×8 TrTr soon?

  57. Sariel
    April 30th, 2010 at 07:11 | #57


    I don’t like Gallardo. I like Reventon much more.

  58. nxtinventor
    April 30th, 2010 at 02:44 | #58

    you should make a lamborghini gallardo with independent suspension, awd, brakes, gearbox with clutch, working door handles, working windshield wipers, working spoiler, working lpe power engine, cooling fan for that, power adjustable seats, working throttle, working steering wheel, steering, opening hood, working a/c, and a telescoping wheel! like nicjasno and ivan do. it would be much better than any of the things you have ever made.

  59. blarson
    April 30th, 2010 at 01:05 | #59

    What kind of gear box did you use?

  60. landymad
    April 29th, 2010 at 21:26 | #60

    absolutely fantastic model can’t wait for the rest of the instructions (soon i hope) i will change to land rover tho if u dont mind 🙂 11/10 fro this model which should be described as pure genius rather than just “a model”.

  61. Sariel
    April 29th, 2010 at 16:38 | #61

    There is going to be instruction for the whole Jeep.

  62. Chili
    April 29th, 2010 at 16:17 | #62

    Is there going to be an instruction for the rest of the jeep, or just front – and end axles?

  63. Sariel
    April 29th, 2010 at 14:47 | #63

    On this page.

  64. owen
    April 29th, 2010 at 14:07 | #64

    so how are you going to post the instructions? on this page or by its self?

  65. lewis
    April 29th, 2010 at 08:39 | #65

    ok i didn’t know if it was the same as the picture or not

  66. Sariel
    April 28th, 2010 at 21:08 | #66

    I think the instructions show that pretty well.

  67. lewis
    April 28th, 2010 at 18:30 | #67

    is the suspension mounted vertical or diagonal if so is it wide at the bottom and short at top or the other way round???

  68. Alex
    April 27th, 2010 at 20:48 | #68

    Great that you made Instructions on this one 🙂 !

  69. Sariel
    April 27th, 2010 at 19:43 | #69


  70. Fabian
    April 27th, 2010 at 17:06 | #70

    Hi Sariel,
    which cad programm do you use to make the instructions??
    PS: Very cool car.

  71. April 27th, 2010 at 12:22 | #71

    now i can finally build and improve on a 4×4 design. i wish these instructions came out along time ago but it don’t matter. i can now build that fast 4×4 i always wanted. THANK YOU!!! you are awesome man.

  72. Sariel
    April 27th, 2010 at 07:48 | #72

    @Mihály Stépán
    This is a very ‘slight’ Ackermann geometry 🙂

  73. Mihály Stépán
    April 27th, 2010 at 07:45 | #73

    Did I see it right, you used Ackermann geometry in the front axle? Deliberately, or it just turned out this way? 🙂

  74. Sariel
    April 26th, 2010 at 07:07 | #74

    I came 7th, you can read more at my Facebook page.

  75. blarson
    April 25th, 2010 at 23:39 | #75

    Did you place?

  76. Sariel
    April 25th, 2010 at 23:08 | #76

    I did well. Working on the instruction right now.

  77. blarson
    April 25th, 2010 at 21:48 | #77

    How did you do in the race?

  78. Mihály Stépán
    April 25th, 2010 at 09:09 | #78

    That’s nice, it takes weight away from the chassis. I tried to make a live front axle, but connecting rods would simply be too weak to handle steering power even in a non-offroad vehicle.

  79. Sariel
    April 24th, 2010 at 22:27 | #79

    @Mihály Stépán
    By shaft with u-joints. Some people simply integrate the steering motor into the axle.

  80. Mihály Stépán
    April 24th, 2010 at 22:12 | #80

    One more question: what’s the usual way of steering the live axles? With pushrods like in real trucks, or by shafts with u-joints?

  81. Sariel
    April 24th, 2010 at 16:40 | #81


    @Mihály Stépán
    Live axles are used in TrTr. I think they offer better performance but worse stability, because they usually make the chassis much higher.

  82. Mihály Stépán
    April 24th, 2010 at 13:35 | #82

    Saw your answer to nxtinventor, but apart from that, are live axles used at all in TrTr? Do you think they offer better stability, manouvreability than pendulars?
    Like your Jeep, simple, effective! Would look great in black, with those chrome rims as decorations! 😉

  83. gimba96
    April 24th, 2010 at 11:49 | #83

    Nice small creation!
    One question: What is the distance between teh mounting points of the shock absorbers?

  84. Sariel
    April 22nd, 2010 at 22:22 | #84

    Read the last sentence of the description.

  85. Manne
    April 22nd, 2010 at 21:44 | #85

    Are you going to publish instrucktions for the front axle?

  86. darksheep
    April 22nd, 2010 at 09:15 | #86

    Wow grate M.O.C if you do publish instructions i will have to hop on yo bricklink get the parts and build it 🙂

  87. Sariel
    April 21st, 2010 at 23:15 | #87

    Not really because the weight is small. But this friction could be reduced by changing the set-up of the shock absorbers – at this moment they push the suspension down and press on the driveshaft.

  88. nico71
    April 21st, 2010 at 22:43 | #88

    Drivetrain axle is for pendular suspension and drivetrain, does it cause lot of friction due to the weight ?

    Nice MOC, as usual paul !

  89. Sariel
    April 21st, 2010 at 21:48 | #89

    I’m not sure the Dodge will participate the nearest race, but still, there will be Atr’s Jeep Willys to stand face-to-face against.

  90. Chili
    April 21st, 2010 at 20:54 | #90

    If you’ll publish instructions I’ll try to make a yellow one.
    I’m away that weekend from my computer, make sure that when I return you have won.

  91. matthew
    April 21st, 2010 at 20:27 | #91

    You could have a 1 to 1 head-off with that dodge ram!

  92. Sariel
    April 21st, 2010 at 19:28 | #92

    April 24th.

  93. Boris
    April 21st, 2010 at 17:11 | #93

    Looks awesome, nice idea using pendular suspension =D Good luck in the race! =D

  94. lewis
    April 21st, 2010 at 17:03 | #94

    when is the race?

  95. Sariel
    April 21st, 2010 at 15:51 | #95

    I will make the whole instruction if the Jeep succeeds in the race.

  96. Vikke
    April 21st, 2010 at 15:34 | #96

    Can you get a good picture about the front axle?

  97. nxtinventor
    April 21st, 2010 at 01:06 | #97

    yes, there is a rubicon edition 2010 jeep wrangler, it adds locking differentials. i do see your point with the lack of space, but the live axle would be more stable and better for off-road. ALSO with center diff you do not have to use a shock casing. make a custom one without bevel gears. I am not trying to be critical, i just want to help! 🙂

  98. LazyJymmy
    April 21st, 2010 at 01:01 | #98

    VERY NICE!!! I hope this wins you something at the Truck Trial. I like the Technic panels, and the flat stud plates. I think it does nicely on the climbing tests.

  99. Sariel
    April 21st, 2010 at 00:33 | #99

    You know, live axles need some free space around, and there is no space available in this model. It’s simply too small. As for the central differential, it would make the drivetrain more complex and less effective, it would be prone to mechnical failure if the bevel gears inside it break, and it could cause some slip situations. This is small vehicle with short wheelbase, the profits of using a central differential when there are no differentials in the axles are practically none. The disadvantages, on the other hand, are many.
    Also, the 2010 Jeep Wrangler is not the Rubicon version.

  100. nxtinventor
    April 21st, 2010 at 00:24 | #100

    hmm… why not live axles? the real 2010 jeep wrangler has front and rear live axles, pendular suspension is only used on the front axles of tractors. also, why no differential in the back? i can see that maybe that would conflict with a gearing system in the front, but why not then use a center differential? other than these few criticisms, your jeep looks very realistic and is very competent on difficult terrain!

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